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How do they make the 400? Is it the same bore, just destroked? You might be able to build a 400 motor with just the crank, rods, and pistons if that's the case. It'd be a lot cheaper to send those overseas and put them in a 500 block yourself. If the block or heads are different though, that's moot.



Charles.


Charles/Murry



I can't speak to the stroke, but the bore is definitely smaller by a few Millimeters as the Head Gaskets show. The Heads are different as well, with smaller valves. All in all I think it would be prohibitive to try and modify a 500 to match a 400's specs.



I have wondered, however, about boring out the 400 to 500 spec's and replacing the relevant parts to make a 500 out of my 400. Would be nice if it were possible but Carbs, Heads and all would add up pretty fast. That said, the few 500's I've seen here are in the USD $3000 range, ouch. AND the gov here recent outlawed the import of used card and bike parts, they say its to prevent unsafe vehicles, but it's really to protect the auto and bike manufacturers here.



The upshot for me, really, is that on a shoe string budget, and gas at USD $6.00 or so, the loss of mpg/kmpg is not really worth the added cost. Besides which, I've got Larry built carbs and I am very happy with them.



BUT, that's just me. I'm sure there are others out there with 400's who would welcome Murry's Mikuni carbs and be able to fine tune them and work with Murry far better than I can. Shep in Europe for instance or those great folks in Australia or New Zealand.



Mark in Thailand
 
Gasoline with 10% adrenaline mixed in definitely reduces mpg, worse than corn-a-hol.
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Tell ya what Murry, Ill do a mileage check this weekend and let you know what I'm running. I know that running 55 to 60 with Keihn carbs jetted for pods, I was anywhere between 45 to 50 mpg, no kidding. I will post here Sunday night and let you know what my 500 is doing with the Minukis.
 
i only ride 2 ways steady speed on the highway or wide open lol



on the highway i run my gl650 or my goldwing at 70-75 mph i get around 45-47 on both of them



in town of back roads if i am having fun i can work my mileage down as low as 28 on a 500 but its at wide open a lot



once you guys run your bikes for a bit do a plug read at your favorite cruising rpm and let me know or see the plug color



you may be able to adjust for a bit better gas mileage i jetted the carbs for max power so the 500s makes roughly 20 percent more power



and if you are using it they will burn that much more There is no magic pill if you want great gas mileage leave the bike dead stock



my job is to give you the ability to burn more fuel cleanly but the harder you twist the throttle the more



you will burn more its always the same mathematical formula



hp desired divided by wallet thickness x right wrist droop factor = smiles per hour
 
well mileage is well within power gain and consumption expectation



in other words increase in power and torque matches increase in consumption





now as you guys get some miles on these carbs lets do some plug checks and see if we can tweak back some fuel mileage here is where better pods





would help a lot the pods that occlude the air inlet (most of them) really effect fuel mileage at higher rpm so if you find a good one let me know



i would really like to know a better brand i could supply



OR for us sufferers of right wrist droop lets see if we can get some more power out of the bike



i have jetted for the median average! each bike is somewhat different due to lots of factors and driving habits



exhaust is a huge factor so a lot of little tweaks are possible in terms of fuel consumption or power gains
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Problem is still the diameter of the air filter inlet is significantly smaller than the diameter of the carburetor inlet. So it's restricting the airflow pretty badly.



Charles.
 
I recently purchased some Mikes Xs air filters, not pods, for my CX500 with Minuki swap. There is no, I repeat no air inlet restriction, and there is a lot of air filter surface, Meaning there is a lot of filter to suck in more air, clean air. When I get on it it sounds just like a aftermarket fresh air intake for your CAR! The best part is I can still mount my side covers! Trust me they are worth the looking into. They are $17.50 a piece. Oh and by the way you can oil them if ya want to just like a K&N filter! 57 mm oval tapered port 2 1/4".
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Here are some more options:



This one definitely does not occlude: http://www.bikebandit.com/uni-flex-core-sock-universal-motorcycle-filter



This one is a black version of the filter above.... but there's a rubber flange instead of the straight foam material on the end, so I'm not sure if it occludes or not. http://www.bikebandit.com/uni-pod-universal-motorcycle-filter



I can't tell for sure, but judging by the design of the rubber section, I would say there's a 98% chance this one does not occlude:

http://www.bikebandit.com/uni-2-stage-angle-pod-universal-motorcycle-filter



The Bikemaster pods probably do not occlude. The rubber flange is bonded directly to the filter material, there is no chrome metal end cap that the rubber must attach to, like with the EMGO pods. http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-universal-pod-air-filters. Better photo (of bonded end cap) here: http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/92000040/images/tr-457097__1.jpg Not sure they come in the correct size though.





Charles.
 
just remind me when you order and i will drill and tap a nipple in the intake manifold


Hi Murray - has anyone who got the black epoxied manifolds for your carb kits posted or sent you pictures of them mounted? If something got posted here I missed it. I'd like to see how they look.



Thanks...



VC3
 
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