Honda CX 500 Forum banner

341 - 360 of 997 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #341
Cutting out the rear electrical pan:

IMG_9297.JPG

Made a few bends to get the right fitment:

IMG_9298.JPG

Cut two slits in it and bent the middle piece into an arc to clear the tire. Welded it up at lunch today and will post some more pictures tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #342
Got the sides welded on and cleaned it up a bit. Still have to do some drilling and grinding but it looks like that won't be until tomorrow night. Too many things on the go right now.

IMG_9299.JPG

IMG_9300.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #344
All the photos are right-side-up for me.

That light is wicked! haha
Oh that's good! I have been uploading them to my computer differently from before so I am glad they're all getting on here correctly.

Thanks! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #345
Sorry for the delays, just finished up my work term and had to get some things done.
Will be back to working on the bike tomorrow and posting updates as they come up.
The posts will be a little more sporadic over the holidays as I will be going on vacation and whatnot, but I'll do my best to keep you all updated!

Merry Christmas and have a Happy Holiday everyone! All the best in the new year :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,160 Posts
I don't want to wet blanket the license plate fender thing but when you ride that thing will be rattling and shaking with the slightest bumps.

When the frequency is right a sympathetic vibe will eventually snap it or cause rapid structural degradation cracks .

Widening the mount to the axle shock area will triangulate the unit and eliminate flex and adding a single tube to the other axle will reduce

flex on the other axis.

That may make it stiff enough for use basically now you have a 1 point mount by doing as suggested there will be 3.

You're going to need at least 3 , this is not a new idea,its been used successfully when properly designed and constructed.

First time you ride it you will see exactly what I'm saying. Nice Build keep it up .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #347
I don't want to wet blanket the license plate fender thing but when you ride that thing will be rattling and shaking with the slightest bumps.

When the frequency is right a sympathetic vibe will eventually snap it or cause rapid structural degradation cracks .

Widening the mount to the axle shock area will triangulate the unit and eliminate flex and adding a single tube to the other axle will reduce

flex on the other axis.

That may make it stiff enough for use basically now you have a 1 point mount by doing as suggested there will be 3.

You're going to need at least 3 , this is not a new idea,its been used successfully when properly designed and constructed.

First time you ride it you will see exactly what I'm saying. Nice Build keep it up .
No worries, any advice is good advice! Some great tips, but I am not sure what you mean by "Widening the mount to the axle shock area will triangulate the unit and eliminate flex". If you mean to use the shock and axle as mounts, then that what I am currently using. Both the rear axle bolt and the bottom shock bolt are used, so isn't that technically 2 mounting points?
Looking from the back, the y-axis is solid due to the two mounting points in the vertical plane, and the x-axis is surprisingly strong due to the large diameter of the axle bolt and the washer attached to the shock bolt. Adding a second tube on the opposite side would indeed strengthen the x-axis bending moment about the mounting points, but I believe the current mounts should suffice as there is not a lot of weight on them.

The vibrations could indeed be the biggest issue though. I will give it a go the way it is, but if I find the vibrations are bad then I will rubber mount it. I would be very surprised if the vibrations could destroy anything on the assembly though, everything is thoroughly welded on at least two planes. The length of the arms could pose an issue allowing increased frequencies on the supports, but I figure if the stock rear components (brake drum, bolts, shocks, etc...) can handle the vibrations from the road then this assembly should be able to too.

Thanks for the tips and kind words!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #348 (Edited)
So after welding up the rear electronics pan, I still had to do some more grinding and bending to get it to fit all good, but I think I finally got it to the place where I am happy with it. The tire was hitting the front part of the pan, so I had to do some more bending in that area. I also ended up adding an extra rubber piece to the new shocks so there will be no issues with the tire rubbing at all now.

In order to mount the pan I was originally going to mount it to the middle section of the frame and the rear hoop, but there isn't enough room on the rear hoop, plus the bolts sticking out the bottom look ugly, so I will be attaching it to the cross brace instead.

Cleaned up and shaped the old cross brace as well as made the bracket to weld onto the pan:

IMG_9325.JPG

What it will look like when it's all done and welded:

IMG_9326.JPG

IMG_9327.JPG

Then it was time to get back to work on the license plate holder.
I had some LED lights to use for the plate before, but picked up some of the ones that mount into the bolt holes instead as there are cleaner looking:

IMG_9332.JPG

I then modified the license plate bracket I had made earlier:

IMG_9334.JPG

Drilled and tapped the tops of the tubes:

IMG_9335.JPG

Mounted the bracket up onto it:

IMG_9333.JPG

And attached the licence plate to it all:

fotofriend_3682261.jpg

I think it looks a lot better now with the plate on it. Some smoothing out then painting and it should be pretty good looking hopefully:

fotofriend_3682263.jpg

fotofriend_3682264.jpg

Tomorrow I will start routing the electronics.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jayseamtl

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,804 Posts
If you could, route the wires for the plate lights through the tubes for a cleaner look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #350
If you could, route the wires for the plate lights through the tubes for a cleaner look.
Yup, that's the plan :)
I was trying to get the wire through the tube last night, but I think I must have blocked a section with weld. So the only solution I can think of is to drill a hole above and below the blockage and have the wire go outside and around the blockage, then go back in. Unless you can think of something a bit better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Your fender will start wobling. And before you know it the resonance has loosened every bolt in your bike

Sent with Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #356
Sorry, sorry. I didn't mean that vibrations are something that does not need to be addressed. I have witnessed first hand the destructive power of vibrations. In our strength of materials course we learned a lot about harmonics and frequencies in structures, and actually watched a similar clip to the one Murray posted on the Tacoma Narrows Bridge.

Me and a team had to do a challenge at OEC 2014 that involved supporting an egg in a structure that could withstand the force from a 6 axis shaker table (a very cool experience!) and even though we passed the challenge, our structure was on the verge of total collapse due to the constant vibrations. It was interesting to see how even such small movements, if repeated a number of times, could destroy so many things.

What I meant when I said I would be very surprised if the vibrations could destroy anything on the assembly is that due to the fact that the stock components on the rear assembly can withstand the vibration of the road, so should my licence plate holder. After thinking about it for a bit longer though, even though the existing assembly could be good stock, if I add this part in without taking the proper precautions I could do damage to the rear assembly.
Currently the plate holder is solid against the rear housing and does not budge. This means the large amplitude frequencies shouldn't be a problem. However, the smaller vibrations could still pose a threat. In order to get rid of these I would add some rubber washer to the mounts to cushion the holder. This would open up the weakness to the larger amplitude frequencies a bit though. So the trick will be finding a happy medium.

Until I can do some field tests I will leave it the way it is, as I can not determine at the moment what sort of vibrations I will be dealing with. Once I take it for a spin I will monitor the state of the holder, and if I notice any substantial vibrations I will go with the rubber mounting.

Thanks for all the tips and advice guys!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #357 (Edited)
Got the rear lights wired to light up the plate:

fotofriend_3682268.jpg

Routed some wires and mounted the regulator to the underside of the front electronics pan (forgot to take a picture so will do that tomorrow).
Also started to work on the battery leads and mounting the starter relay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,160 Posts
Just an a very rough guess but the unit should have a first harmonic resonance of less than .5 hz .

A nine inch steel rod suspended from 1 end has a first harmonic of point 9 Hz 2nd of 1.2 ect. up to the eighth of 6.4.

Being a dunce at math and not having the weight and wall thickness of the pipe pipe or the weight suspended at 1 end,

the damping of the 2 parallels not being the same and other variables. Each factor affecting the harmonic frequency.

So you could be correct. With the use of rubber mounts or something.

I have been planning something similar after watching some videos of speedway bikes racing.

That roost blocker is cool. They call it a dirt deflector,10 inches higher would be about right.

Lookin good !

I can't figure anyone living north of the Mason Dixon line the weather is just tooo cold.:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #359 (Edited)
Just an a very rough guess but the unit should have a first harmonic resonance of less than .5 hz .

A nine inch steel rod suspended from 1 end has a first harmonic of point 9 Hz 2nd of 1.2 ect. up to the eighth of 6.4.

Being a dunce at math and not having the weight and wall thickness of the pipe pipe or the weight suspended at 1 end,

the damping of the 2 parallels not being the same length and other variables. Each factor affecting the harmonic frequency.

So you could be correct. With the use of rubber mounts.

I have been planning something similar after watching some videos of speedway bikes racing.

That roost blocker is cool. They call it a dirt blocker
Sounds like you are a lot more knowledgeable concerning harmonics and frequencies than myself lol. In that case I will try the rubber mounting option first as that will give me the best base point to go from I believe.
Thanks for the help purplecx500!

I've always been very impressed by those types of racers. To have that kind of control on the dirt is very skillful. I've never really ridden on dirt before, but I guarantee you my bike would be on it's side faster than you could say "cx500" hahaha.
I didn't know that's what those things were called. They look almost like a little broom attached to the bike. I could definitely see where vibrations would be huge on those things, with the rough dirt and sliding going on all the time.

And yeah the weather is brutal up here. Although it has been fairly warm the last couple weeks. Lots of rain though in my area. I need to move somewhere warm all year round (want a new neighbor lol?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #360
Got that picture of the regulator mounted under the pan. Should get plenty of air flow under there:

IMG_9346.JPG

Made up a bracket to mount the starter relay. Going to go with something I saw another member do, and mount it in between the gap in the swing arm area. Enough clearance on both sides and it is pretty well protected. I will be routing the wires a little bit differently than in the second picture to give it a bit cleaner look:

IMG_9347.JPG

IMG_9348.JPG

I wanted to get that welding done so I can paint the frame and stop the rust from forming. I just needed to make up the last piece I should have to weld; the rear tire hugger and mounting tabs.
I have yet to make the tabs, but I started to work on the actual tire hugger. Rather than buy a new one and wrestle with it, I decided I would give the old wheel well a go and see what it would look like. I am actually pretty please with the outcome!

Trimming the sides and bottom first:

IMG_9356.JPG

Then cut the sides and top to the right shape:

IMG_9357.JPG

Lots of dremeling and sanding later and here she is. I still have to do some more sanding, and then even it out with fiberglass bondo, but it should look good.

On the stock wheel well there is a flat section where the stator connectors and other things used to sit on. What this meant was when I sanded it down to match the rounded profile of the hugger, the corners ended up becoming holes.
Rather than patch them up, I figured it might look cool if I cut out triangles and have them accented red with the hugger being black.
It won't be too noticeable, but I think it will add a cool touch, almost like red eyes glaring out from the front of the tire. I will make a red piece and affix it to the back so the cutouts will have some depth to them. Then the backside of the whole thing will get a coat of the wheel well paint just to seal everything in.

IMG_9358.JPG

IMG_9359.JPG

That will be the last of the updates for a few days as I am going away on holidays soon. So I will be back at the bike Tuesday hopefully.

All the best!
 
341 - 360 of 997 Posts
Top