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WTB CX 500 cam tensioner bolt

730 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  bahn88
Mine Is apparently broken lol please help
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Broken or stripped?
Is this the adjustment bolt?
Itll b engine out to replace
Cmsnl usually has these...but you should order a few things to reduce the impact of shipping costs....they do have Oem/oem spec cam chain guides and tensioner blades...
there are couple on ebay. one in UK and 1 in France

90087-415-010: Search Result | eBay
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Broken or stripped?
Is this the adjustment bolt?
Itll b engine out to replace
Cmsnl usually has these...but you should order a few things to reduce the impact of shipping costs....they do have Oem/oem spec cam chain guides and tensioner blades...
The bolt is sheared. Everything else is ok. In the process of overhauling the engine seeing as though this thing has been sitting in a garage for 20 years. Discovered the bolt while doing so.
there are couple on ebay. one in UK and 1 in France

90087-415-010: Search Result | eBay
Your awesome man thank you!
The orings a bit of an unusual size....so replace that if it leaks its engine out to replace....or silicone externally each adjustment...
If you need a O-ring let me know I may have a couple left.
BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
You mentioned overhauling the engine but you didn't say which manual you are using for that. The aftermarket manuals might get you through a job like that but the factory books for these bikes are so well written and laid out that the aftermarket ones should be considered secondary references only.

I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
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BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
You mentioned overhauling the engine but you didn't say which manual you are using for that. The aftermarket manuals might get you through a job like that but the factory books for these bikes are so well written and laid out that the aftermarket ones should be considered secondary references only.

I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
Thanks for the advice. I am using the Honda motor company manual for 78-82.
And believe me EVERYTHING that is old is coming off and getting replaced. (brake lines, fuel lines, hoses etc.)
I'll post some pics of the process when I get a little farther along down the road.
Got the rocker assembly out right now to clean all the carbon deposit and grime off. Want this thing to be like new when I'm done with it.
Might b a used one from this uSA seller....(disregard the postage estimate as it will b to OZ!)
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