Won't start

3104 Views 22 Replies 7 Participants Last post by bandit, Apr 21, 2011

thenewblack

Discussion Starter · Mar 31, 2011

hey everyone, so i got all the fuses replaced, new battery, but only my headlamp and a red light on my panel is coming up. Whenever i push the start button, it wont even make a sound. The headlamp light dims when i push it, but thats it, no sound, doesn't even try to start it up. Do you guys think its the starter motor or the button itself?

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

81custom

· #2 · Mar 31, 2011

you should also get a green light for neutral..

do your blinkers work, horn, brake lights etc, front light - high and low beam.

if they all work and your starter button doesn't - could be the clutch safety switch (hint - pull the clutch in when trying to start the bike) .

if it still doesn't crank or make any noises, check your battery connections, clean and solid, then your starter solenoid connections...... if no joy, bridge across the top of the solenoids two connections, tell us what happens.

also - put your model bike and year in your signature line...helps with model particular information

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81custom

· #3 · Mar 31, 2011

also check the operation of the off/run/off switch setting.

Blindstitch

· #4 · Mar 31, 2011

Either make sure it's in neutral and the green light is on or hold in the clutch and see if it tries to start. Best done on the centerstand in case it tries to get away from you.

thackney

· #5 · Mar 31, 2011

Pushing the start button is supposed to turn off the headlamp to give full power to the starter.

The neutral "switch" is just a contact to ground completed by the shift drum. Either it or the clutch switch must be grounded for the magnetic starter switch (solenoid) to activate, and as noted the kill switch must be off. You can disconnect the black/white stripe connector at the CDI under the seat to bypass it, I think.

This is for CDI bike.

CXPHREAK

· #6 · Mar 31, 2011

My CX [CDI], will still crank with the kill switch in the off position, but is this typical?

On mine at least it just cuts the spark.

Allan

· #7 · Mar 31, 2011

CXPHREAK said:
My CX [CDI], will still crank with the kill switch in the off position, but is this typical?

Yes, the engine should still turn over if the kill switch is in the off position.

Some history would help,,is the bike new to you? It could be something simple or it could be a seized engine.

thenewblack

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 1, 2011

81custom said:
you should also get a green light for neutral..

do your blinkers work, horn, brake lights etc, front light - high and low beam.

if they all work and your starter button doesn't - could be the clutch safety switch (hint - pull the clutch in when trying to start the bike) .

if it still doesn't crank or make any noises, check your battery connections, clean and solid, then your starter solenoid connections...... if no joy, bridge across the top of the solenoids two connections, tell us what happens.

also - put your model bike and year in your signature line...helps with model particular information

well the bike didn't come with blinkers but the turn signal lights work on the panel, no horn, my high beam works but not my low beam...

i know my battery connections are good cuz i just installed it, I'll definitely try the other things you suggested and let you guys know what happened

thenewblack

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 1, 2011

Allan said:
Yes, the engine should still turn over if the kill switch is in the off position.

Some history would help,,is the bike new to you? It could be something simple or it could be a seized engine.

Hey ya sorry forgot to tell u guys about it. I bought it from a guy not too long ago for 300 bucks. I bought it as a project to learn how to wrench on bikes so everything i fix or work on, i'm doing as i learn =/

The guy i bought it from seemed really nice, said he had it going for a while but then stored it, he had a bunch of projects

I'm hoping to get the bike running by the end of this month because i'm moving by then... we'll see

thenewblack

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 8, 2011

So update is, i had a bunch of wiring to sort out, some things were out of place. I can get my bike to turn over now, but it will only run with carb spray. After that, it will only run as long as i keep the throttle wide open, it will not idle. Sometimes it runs on both cylinders, sometimes just one. Any ideas?

bandit

· #11 · Apr 8, 2011

thenewblack said:
So update is, i had a bunch of wiring to sort out, some things were out of place. I can get my bike to turn over now, but it will only run with carb spray. After that, it will only run as long as i keep the throttle wide open, it will not idle. Sometimes it runs on both cylinders, sometimes just one. Any ideas?

your carbs need a good clean.

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=140

depending how bad they are inside,they might need doing a couple of times

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thenewblack

Discussion Starter · #12 · Apr 14, 2011

bandit said:
your carbs need a good clean.

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=140

depending how bad they are inside,they might need doing a couple of times

Took them apart, the jets were all clean. What gives?! i soaked them in carb cleaner anyways and did all the other things that go along with cleaning them out. I threw them back in today and i'm still having the same issue =/

I'm also getting gas overflow coming out one side but i checked the needles and floats and they are good.

bandit

· #13 · Apr 14, 2011

thenewblack said:
Took them apart, the jets were all clean. What gives?! i soaked them in carb cleaner anyways and did all the other things that go along with cleaning them out. I threw them back in today and i'm still having the same issue =/

I'm also getting gas overflow coming out one side but i checked the needles and floats and they are good.

did you check your overflow tubes,a minute crack there can be soldered,if found.

by the way,which side is leaking

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thenewblack

Discussion Starter · #14 · Apr 14, 2011

bandit said:
did you check your overflow tubes,a minute crack there can be soldered,if found.

by the way,which side is leaking

I'll have to take a look, but its quite a steady stream so idk if it would be a crack... i'll look though. The one leaking is the first carb, on the left side

bandit

· #15 · Apr 15, 2011

thenewblack said:
I'll have to take a look, but its quite a steady stream so idk if it would be a crack... i'll look though. The one leaking is the first carb, on the left side

what a shock,,,the left carb again rears its head.lol

i agree with you,unless the tube has a bad split[which i doubt]its probably your fnv not sealing in that carb.

they can be polished in,its something i do as a norm.when ever i clean a carb.....toothpaste makes a good compound.

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thenewblack

Discussion Starter · #16 · Apr 21, 2011

bandit said:
what a shock,,,the left carb again rears its head.lol

i agree with you,unless the tube has a bad split[which i doubt]its probably your fnv not sealing in that carb.

they can be polished in,its something i do as a norm.when ever i clean a carb.....toothpaste makes a good compound.

So i guess third time was the charm, bike is idling well and no more leak! now i just have some clutch issues to deal with

I'm missing one of the tubes leading from the carbs to the air box. I'm wondering if i should look for it (i'm sure honda doesn't carry it...) or just go ahead and rejet and throw on some pods...?

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bandit

· #17 · Apr 21, 2011

thenewblack said:
So i guess third time was the charm, bike is idling well and no more leak! now i just have some clutch issues to deal with

I'm missing one of the tubes leading from the carbs to the air box. I'm wondering if i should look for it (i'm sure honda doesn't carry it...) or just go ahead and rejet and throw on some pods...?

glad it worked out ok.sometimes it can take a couple of goes to get the carbs clean.make sure you have an in-line filter fitted.it will help protect them.

pods and rejet......do so at your own risk.a lot of guys have had lots of problems going in that direction.

those thin black pipes do not go to the airbox,they route down beside it,they are only drains...if a carb floods,as you found,it takes the excess fuel down away from the hotter parts of the engine.o to any hobby/craft shop and buy 20c worth.

well done on your reapairs

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thenewblack

Discussion Starter · #18 · Apr 21, 2011

bandit said:
glad it worked out ok.sometimes it can take a couple of goes to get the carbs clean.make sure you have an in-line filter fitted.it will help protect them.

pods and rejet......do so at your own risk.a lot of guys have had lots of problems going in that direction.

those thin black pipes do not go to the airbox,they route down beside it,they are only drains...if a carb floods,as you found,it takes the excess fuel down away from the hotter parts of the engine.o to any hobby/craft shop and buy 20c worth.

well done on your reapairs

Thanks man appreciate it. I'm glad i had to do it a few times, forced me to get familiar with them. they're not so scary anymore

i have heard pods don't work out well for everyone, i was just going for a clean minimalist look but maybe i can make it work. I know what pipes you're talking about but i really did mean the ( boots?) that go straight from the carbs to the airbox. I have one on there, but the second mysteriously vanished while the previous owner let it sit.

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Allan

· #19 · Apr 21, 2011

thenewblack said:
Thanks man appreciate it. I'm glad i had to do it a few times, forced me to get familiar with them. they're not so scary anymore

i have heard pods don't work out well for everyone, i was just going for a clean minimalist look but maybe i can make it work. I know what pipes you're talking about but i really did mean the ( boots?) that go straight from the carbs to the airbox. I have one on there, but the second mysteriously vanished while the previous owner let it sit.

You should have a boot on there,,the bike may not work properly without it as this will cause a lean condition at higher rpms on that side,,as well as there being no air filter.

As Bandit said above, pods have been used but sometimes they can be a headache to get set up properly.

bandit

· #20 · Apr 21, 2011

thenewblack said:
Thanks man appreciate it. I'm glad i had to do it a few times, forced me to get familiar with them. they're not so scary anymore

i have heard pods don't work out well for everyone, i was just going for a clean minimalist look but maybe i can make it work. I know what pipes you're talking about but i really did mean the ( boots?) that go straight from the carbs to the airbox. I have one on there, but the second mysteriously vanished while the previous owner let it sit.

lol.oh we are talking about carb boots...omg,as Allan said...they are a must,and need to be airtight for the carbs to work properly

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