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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to wire 2007 CBR1100 handlebar controls to my 78 CX500. So far it is not working out so well, so I was hoping someone could take a look and maybe point me in the right direction. Everything I have tried so far has not worked at all. Right now I am focusing on the starter switch, then I can move forward to wiring the kill switch and be DONE with this crap.



Here is the CBR controls wire diagram w/continuity:



Here is the diagram of the CX controls:





I can still only start the bike by jumping the solenoid. Focusing on the ignition button so far this did not work:

 

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Right.



Starter:

CBR uses Bl/R Y/R to power the starter

If you patch

Bl/R to Black and Y/R to Y/R on CX

that should get you going



Kill switch:

Not so easy

the CBR behaves like a TI switch and thats the opposite of how

a CDI kill switch works.

CBR and TI kill switches open the circuit to stop power to the ignition

while CDI bike kill switches go short to ground stator output.



Possible work around.

If you connect CX green to CBR white/blue and CX black/white to CBR black

the switch may work but in reverse.



I'd suggest checking the CBR switch functions with a meter and making notes before

modifying anything

the start button appears to have a light interrupt function that cuts power to the lights

as its cranking the motor ( blue/white)

If I'm correct you may want to insulate the end of this wire and tuck it away



HTH
 

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I can still only start the bike by jumping the solenoid. Focusing on the ignition button so far this did not work:



That should be correct from what I can see. And they both interrupt the current to the headlamp when the start button is pushed, I'd leave that be.



Something else is inhibiting the starter circuit, trace through your CX diagram to see what else could break the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Marshall



That is exactly what I was thinking.



What would stop the CX starter switch from working? I cannot guarantee the stock switch was functioning before it was removed. Maybe I can find a known working switch and test it. Anyone want to ship me one to test?



I can jump the solenoid and run the bike fine, but not at the starter switch.
 

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I can jump the solenoid and run the bike fine, but not at the starter switch.



Then you can pretty well eliminate the switch if you've jumped those two wires diretly. There's a safety switch somewhere that's interfering.
 

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Phil

As I mentioned previously

I'd suggest checking the CBR switch functions with a meter and making notes before

modifying anything


It really would help

To see if the existing system and wiring is OK you could grab a yellow/red at the bar end and with ignition on, breifly touch it to a black wire you know is live.

This should activate the starter.

If it does you need to check the two wires to the switch make contact when the button is pressed.



If this quick test gives nothing you need to examine the bikes starter wiring

You may be getting power down the yellow/red to the solenoid

but for the circuit to work it relies on the solenoid getting grounded

by the neutral switch in neutral, or the clutch switch.



To check the solenoid you can use two flyng leads from the solenoid

connector block to the battery

Yellow/red to live - green/red to ground

a quick touch should show if the solenoids functioning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To see if the existing system and wiring is OK you could grab a yellow/red at the bar end and with ignition on, breifly touch it to a black wire you know is live.

This should activate the starter.

If it does you need to check the two wires to the switch make contact when the button is pressed.


Reg



I'll test this today. Basically turn the key on and short these two wires, if it turns over then problem is the switch. This will lead me in the right direction.



Thanks
 

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Ok.....Turned the key on and connected the yellow/red wire to black wire nothing happened. I guess this rules out the switch? I have a multimeter how do I check that these wires are live?


Yep its too soon blame the switch

Check that black wire is at near battery voltage at ign ON

If it is, then the problem lies on the bike/wiring

If you do the solenoid flying lead test I posted earlier then its deffo the wiring,

the neutral switch isnt grounding properly or the diodes failed open circuit.



Whe you get it working by touching the black to Y/R then you can look at

patching in the CBR switch.



Was it working previously? I dont know the bikes history
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Reg





The CX switch didn't work when I got the bike. Had to jump the solenoid to get it to turn over. I will try to test the solenoid in a bit, can you elaborate more on this? Sorry I do not understand fully what it is I need to do...



To check the solenoid you can use two flyng leads from the solenoid

connector block to the battery

Yellow/red to live - green/red to ground

a quick touch should show if the solenoids functioning.


Would I just be taking the two wires from the solenoid to the battery? If so I am willing to bet money it works. I just put a new solenoid in yesterday. Let me know if I need to try this.
 

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Phil

Yes youre just eliminating the switch etc doing this and

confirming the solenoid will work if connected properly

To activate, it needs a supply and ground

By opening the 2 way connector and using two peices of wire (flying leads)

direct to the battery, we can check it functions.

Do it in neutral with ign off and it will just nudge the motor and not start



If it does, you next need to find the problem with the wiring

If, with a meter, you get continuity between y/R at the bars and the 2 way connector at the solenoid then the problem is in the grounding.

If so, examine the neutral switch and related wiring.

I'm on my laptop at the mo

I'll boot the PC and upload a diagram of the CX starting circuit

As you'll see, its quite simple when its extracted from the rats nest

and wiring diagrams
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok Reg



I tested the solenoid by undoing the 2 wire switch and using the 2 flying leads. One from green/red to neg battery terminal, and yellow/red to positive terminal, and the engine turns over. Bike was/is in neutral and ignition was off during this test.





-As soon as I find a 9v battery I will check continuity on the yellow/red wire.
 

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Exactly, just keep moving your ohmmeter closer to the source.
 
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