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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
its like the second i turn the gas to "on" or "res" it instantly leaks out of the right bowl drain hole!! then when i plug that up it starts draining out of the left bowl drain hole. takes lots of work getting it started too.

its just getting me super frustrated. HELLP
 

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its like the second i turn the gas to "on" or "res" it instantly leaks out of the right bowl drain hole!! then when i plug that up it starts draining out of the left bowl drain hole. takes lots of work getting it started too.

its just getting me super frustrated. HELLP


Sounds like the float needle valve is stuck open due to some debris in the fuel. Consider pulling the carbs and cleaning them. Check the archive, multiple threads on how to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
would dirty float needle cause all of that flow from not seating? or could it be float hight? cus i just checked that and i bent them to 15.5 mm spec.

another quick question, there is a small stopper keeping the float from lowering past a certain point would this effect anything if it is off?
 

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would dirty float needle cause all of that flow from not seating? or could it be float hight? cus i just checked that and i bent them to 15.5 mm spec.

another quick question, there is a small stopper keeping the float from lowering past a certain point would this effect anything if it is off?


I have had some success in stopping the flow of fuel out my overflows by giving the carb bowl a sharp rap or two with a plastic mallet etc. seems the float needle gets hung up and the rap lets it settle into position to seal. When I first got my bike this would happen now and again, but for the last two years I have not had a problem. I leave my petcock on all the time.
 

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You can probably tell if it is a split overflow tube or not without removing the bowl. Once you turn the fuel off and after it stops leaking if you open the drain screw and no or very little gas comes out it is probably a split tube. If you get a couple ounces of fluid then the float is sticking or there is debris in the FNV.



I'm not positive, but if the float drops too low it may be possible that the float needle could come all the way out and then not go back into place.
 

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I have had some success in stopping the flow of fuel out my overflows by giving the carb bowl a sharp rap or two with a plastic mallet etc. seems the float needle gets hung up and the rap lets it settle into position to seal. When I first got my bike this would happen now and again, but for the last two years I have not had a problem. I leave my petcock on all the time.
This usually works best if you open up the float bowl drain at the same time to get some flow through the needle and seat to flush through any debris that may be holding them open. Also, with a bit of luck the debris will also be flushed from the float bowl.
 

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If and when you have the carbs off make sure you service the float bowl drain screws.These often get overlooked.Release and lubricate them so they can be used easily.



If you then ever get an overflow problem from the carbs and light tapping on the side doesn't help you can place a container under the rear wheel point to catch fuel and with the petcock off release the left hand side one.Then turn on petcock and let fuel flow through to possibly remove any grit that may have got into the Float Needle Valve hole.Switch petcock off,tighten drain screw and repeat for the right hand side.



This may not work with Vacuum operated Carbs.This will not work if the Inner Carb overflow pipe is split or there is a deeper problem with the Floats and Float needle valves.



HTH
 

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I'll quit while I'm ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey i stopped the leak!! it was awesome after i Q-tip cleaned the needle valve it stopped.

still runs bad though, i put pod filters on this bike with panty hose over them, is there any other adjustments i have to do? ive already replaced the jets to oversize them and i believe i have the correct 2 1/2 turns on the carburetter equalize screws i checked my rubber carb vacuum pads and they dont have holes. i am still running on a cdi, and so far i guess it still works because i get blue spark? the other problems i can tell are happening is that its backfiring and missing. could this be carb related or timing related?
 

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Hey good news about the leak!



Sounds like carbs. You may have a blocked fuel or air passage somewhere. You did clean the carbs a few times already right? What exhaust are you running? With the pods I can't help, having no experience with them, but I do know the carbs have to be 100% clean for the bike to have a chance of running right. Back pressure or the lack of it also affects how it will run. Search for posts having to do with pod filter conversions would be my advice.BTW there is a discussion going on right now about jetting with pods etc HERE
 

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Pod filters and our CV carbs don't get along well. You can rejet richer, I think most go to 90/130 or more but it still won't run right and you'll end up losing power and mpg.



Th intake and factory exhaust were very precisely tuned for this bike using these carbs, you'll get the most power and best mpg leaving it all (or restoring it all) stock.
 

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Pod filters and our CV carbs don't get along well. You can rejet richer, I think most go to 90/130 or more but it still won't run right and you'll end up losing power and mpg.



Th intake and factory exhaust were very precisely tuned for this bike using these carbs, you'll get the most power and best mpg leaving it all (or restoring it all) stock.




I couldn't agree more.If you change one part of the system it will affect other parts and they will have to be re-tuned/compensated for and the,"Home Mechanic" does not have the test equipment to get this right.



The carburettors work on a Partial vacuum which is also balanced by the air-box and filter which is decreased if Pod filters are fitted and this is not allowed for.



Also re-jetting is not the full story as the Slides have been designed specifically to the stock jets used.



Also people who remove the collector box don't realise they are then running exhausts of unequal length and if the mufflers they have fitted have baffles this will cause the engine exhaust scavenging to be out-of-balance.
 

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its like the second i turn the gas to "on" or "res" it instantly leaks out of the right bowl drain hole!! then when i plug that up it starts draining out of the left bowl drain hole. takes lots of work getting it started too.

its just getting me super frustrated. HELLP


too bad, it's leaking too bad.
 
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