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1983 Honda CX650C with Murray's Carbs and stock exhaust for now
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I see lots of recommendations for Shell Rotella 15w-40. Is the Rotella T4 15w-40 synthetic blend labelled for diesel engines actually what is being suggested? I have no qualms with it, just making sure before I put the wrong goo in my go-go Y'know?
 

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Rotella is fine . Any cheap Fleet Diesel oil for older engines is fine - just change it and the filter often. Oil is cheap.
 
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CX500EC Eurosport 1982
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Agree with Muzza, just buy cheap supermarket motorcycle oil of the grade for your environment (10/40 for me in UK) and change oil + filter every 3000 miles or annually. That’ll do the job.
 

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CX500EC Eurosport 1982
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I see lots of recommendations for Shell Rotella 15w-40. Is the Rotella T4 15w-40 synthetic blend labelled for diesel engines actually what is being suggested? I have no qualms with it, just making sure before I put the wrong goo in my go-go Y'know?
you don’t need synthetic oil for these ol’transverse twin engines, just semi-synth is fine, that tends to be the cheaper stuff too 😉
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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I've got full synthetic Rotella T6 15w40 in both bikes last year and this, and they're both running well.
 

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1981 CX500C
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FWIW, I use the same oil as I use in my 4 wheel rides.

Typically, a full syn 10w30 Brands preferred by me are Valvoline, Pennzoil, Quaker.....usually whichever is on sale or less expensive.

Don't sweat too much on this topic. Its been discussed a million times with a million different opinion and a million dire results.........

If the oil isn't causing clutch slip, then all is good.
 

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If your engine runs better or worse because of the type of oil you use, something isn’t right. Oil changes done on time is definitely the most important factor. People like to say these motors are high reving so need special oil but the motors are very over square (short stroke) so the moving mass isn’t really moving as fast as you think.
 

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1983 Honda CX650C with Murray's Carbs and stock exhaust for now
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the help everybody! I just wanted to hear that I wasn't looking at the wrong oil, so all is well and I will pick some up tonight.
 
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1985 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition - 1995 Honda Goldwing GL1500 SE - 2012 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000
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Look for any oil as the inmates above have mentioned with an API donut with the lower half balnk. Honda specified a good quality detergent oil without any friction modifiers. The API donut you are looking for is:
Font Circle Event Parallel Diagram

The top half specifies the API service such as SN, or whatever. The lower half is blank indicating there are no friction modifiers in the oil. Most European formulations are good.
 

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Older engines with older seals and gaskets tend to develop leaks when synthetic oil is used. If your seals are newer, it is no problem, but I still wouldn't run it for the cost if nothing else.
Capt Frank
 

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I run full synth. Motorex bike specific oil...its 15w-50.... no leaks.
Like a lot of things its probably a combination of oil base/ detergent properties and additives that may give you leaks.
If theres a bit of sludge on your seals yep...a synth may remove that and a potential leak.
Oil companies will generally acknowledge this.

FWIW-most oil tech departments will specify semi-synth of full synth for the motor.....BUT mineral in the final drive....
Thats what I run, given the (somewhat) difficulty in replacing final drive seals...


You want something thats MA or MA2 rated....or at least specified not friction modified....
 
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