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837 Posts

We look forward to welcoming you to our site. Good luck with your prospective bike inspection.

If you review the fixed threads on the general discussion forum, you'll find a wealth of information on the CX/GL bikes.

Yes, the motor is torquey...that's why we love them. They're also easy to work on.

Other's will chime in with their are mine.

The weak points of this bike? Firstly it's not an oddball motor - it's actually a very good and efficient motor developing high horsepower per cc in comparison to other motors. You may hear tappet noise. It's easy to adjust the tappets on this bike as they are literally "in your face". We like that. It's not a weak point at all, rather a strength. Almost nobody reports issues with pistons or valves. These motors last a long time (with regular peroidic oil changes and maintenance).

Carbs tend to be touchy on all these bike (aren't all bikes like this?). They need to be clean and properly adjusted. Once done, you're riding in the clouds. Some people have difficulty with this. Great thing is, we do have some carb experts on line.

When on your bike inspection, take a spare motorcycle battery with you, in good working order. It should have around 12.5 + volts showing across the terminals. With the bike's kill switch turned off, crank the motor and measure the voltage drop. Possibly down to 9.5 when cranking. Then with the bike running and at 2000 + RPM, measure the voltage again....should read 13.5 - 14.5 but not higher than 14.8. This is a brief test to see if the charging coils on the stator are working and that the regulator is working. I believe on the 79's the stator also has low and high speed coils with which can best be tested on the open road at slow and high speed. If the stator needs changing, it involves a complete motor drop. There are other tests you can do and again, the information is on the site.

If a motor drop is considered, most will do Timing Chain, Water seals (all O rings), starter motor refurbishment, stator, possibly clutch, although you don't need to drop the motor for either the clutch or starter motor. In fact, the clutch is super easy to access on these bikes.

Starter motors are identical for 500's and 650's, however the large bike tends to be a bit tougher on the starter motor.

Look in the tank for rust. There are ways to clean it out, but it just involves a bit more work. This should/would not deter you from purchasing the bike.

Forks are no better or worse than any other bike - in my opinion. Same with brakes.

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