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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve got a leak coming from the pipe thru the o-ring. Can the pipe be removed to re-seat the o-ring without draining the radiator?
 

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I need to echo what Nolimitz said. I used it and it made getting a good seal a BREEZE. Of all things, I used some "astroglide" (like KY Jelly - personal lubricant) to get it to slide in oh so easy. Got it on my first try. I've read horror stories of members struggling over and over again to get a good seal using orings. The seal he posted is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I need to echo what Nolimitz said. I used it and it made getting a good seal a BREEZE. Of all things, I used some "astroglide" (like KY Jelly - personal lubricant) to get it to slide in oh so easy. Got it on my first try. I've read horror stories of members struggling over and over again to get a good seal using orings. The seal he posted is the way to go.
Thanks. That’s good advice and it gave me a half-chub.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The correct answer turns out to be yes and no. I removed the brackets and pulled it out of the water pump and several cups of coolant spilled out. As I suspected, the o-ring failed (more accurately, I failed to install it properly).
 

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Size of the o-ring matters. The parts fiche lists both 22 x 2.3 and 22 x 2.5, but I found the larger size to be prone to leakage since the pressure of assembly causes them to break.

For me, the best results for me came by lubing the inside of the the sleeve and using a 21.8 x 2.4 o-ring, bought as a 50 pack from grainger for about $10 shipped.

And yes, I had to drain radiator to change them.
 

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Had I seen this in time I would have told you to clean the bottom of the rad and drain screw well and drain the coolant into a clean container so you could re-use it.

I haven't used one yet but I second (third?) the recommendation to use the 650 seal. And silicone grease (which you should already have in your shop for working on brakes) is the best thing for lubricating rubber parts as it won't cause the rubber to deteriorate as petroleum based greases can (you can also smear a bit of it inside the rad hose before assembly so the hose doesn't become glued onto the barb).
 

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I've never understood this problem.

I have only ever pinched one once. I was the filthy swine that originally came up with the recommendation to use personal lube as there was a fashion for vaseline - it rots nitrile O rings.

I fitted the tube to the 500C I'm rebuilding on Sunday. Slipped right in.

Keep the lube off the tube. Wipe it sparingly over the O ring outer. You don't want it between the O ring and tube. This causes the O ring to roll. When they roll they pucker and that is when some ends up sticking out of the joint and a leak. You can actually see this looking into the area and I always check with a small torch after fitting.

Oh ... and clean, polish and lube the receiver in the pump.
 

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Keep the lube off the tube. Wipe it sparingly over the O ring outer. You don't want it between the O ring and tube. This causes the O ring to roll. When they roll they pucker and that is when some ends up sticking out of the joint and a leak.
This is why I only lubricate the receiver, rather than the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've never understood this problem.

I have only ever pinched one once. I was the filthy swine that originally came up with the recommendation to use personal lube as there was a fashion for vaseline - it rots nitrile O rings.

I fitted the tube to the 500C I'm rebuilding on Sunday. Slipped right in.

Keep the lube off the tube. Wipe it sparingly over the O ring outer. You don't want it between the O ring and tube. This causes the O ring to roll. When they roll they pucker and that is when some ends up sticking out of the joint and a leak. You can actually see this looking into the area and I always check with a small torch after fitting.

Oh ... and clean, polish and lube the receiver in the pump.
I’m glad I bought more than one of the o-rings because I pinched the first one. Getting those to seat properly is not a slam-dunk. It’s a challenge.
 

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The o-rings I've been using cost me about 10 cents each (bag of 100 on eBay - they fit the thermostat water pipes on both of my bikes too) so even though I have developed the knack of popping the pipe & (lubed) o-ring into the (cleaned) hole pretty accurately, the last time had one apart I used one o-ring on the end and one between the ribs so that if one became displaced the other still had a chance to seal.
But I intend to try the 650 seal the next time.
 
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