[ealanm]

I'm replacing the water pump mechanical seal (as part of a stator replacement). I don't have the seal driver tool but I was planning to turn one on my lathe. Does anyone have the dimensions of the factory tool that they could send me? It's mainly the attachment I'm interested in, pn 07945-4150400.



Also, the replacement seal came with a plastic part that I can't identify. What is this thing?

 

[Blindstitch]

That's the polo mint. It goes in the back of the impellar.

 

[Blindstitch]

Also



What bike are you doing this work on. The earlier cx's use a mechanical seal that isn't available anymore and the one that is available is 1mm larger. Won't fit in the hole without crushing.



This is how it is done to expand the hole.

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=516&p=2585#p2585



If your current current cup is still in there you can do the shep method.

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355

 

[Shep]

Also



What bike are you doing this work on. The earlier cx's use a mechanical seal that isn't available anymore and the one that is available is 1mm larger. Won't fit in the hole without crushing.

Don you can still get the originals from the UK e.g Wemoto/David Silvers.Over there you can get them from Honda Boat Engine Suppliers

 

[mnutz]

So, I was attempting to do this replacement this past weekend. I was following the "Shep Method," but I could not, for the life of me, get the seal out! I removed the impellar (and all that goes with it), and was left with a black rubber washer-lookin deal on a spring surrounding the shaft the impellar was on. the Shep Method says to pry it out in any fashion you can, but I just ended up taring it in half!



What was I doing wrong, and what can I do differently so that I can perform this replacement correctly?

 

[Shep]

My method does not say use,"Any Method You can" and never has,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Mseal.html



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355

 

[ealanm]

Thanks, I didn't notice the "polo mint" in the diagram. Mine's a GL, so there's no problem with the seal fitting in the hole, I just need to machine up a tool to drive it in with.

 

[mnutz]

I was referencing this line:

13ull off any way you can the Synthetic Spring loaded rubber boot.This is the part of the system that most commonly fails and cause the weeping coolant leak.

While trying to remove this part, it tore in half. How have people removed it before so that it does not tear?

 

[Interstater]

I was referencing this line:



While trying to remove this part, it tore in half. How have people removed it before so that it does not tear?

Isn't that the old part you will replace? Who cares if it tears as you get it out.



It is getting the new seal apart where you need to be careful. Apply heat to soften the adhesive etc...

 

[mnutz]

Well, the original intention was to remove the mechanical seal from my other CX, and put it into my daily rider. I was simply worried that I was removing it incorrectly.



Any advice for digging back in there to get out the remaining seal?

 

[Blindstitch]

Well, the original intention was to remove the mechanical seal from my other CX, and put it into my daily rider. I was simply worried that I was removing it incorrectly.



Any advice for digging back in there to get out the remaining seal?

Buy new and save your self the problem. 30 year old parts aren't always ment to be used as parts for another engine.