Water and oil

bandit said:

bit early for that Tony.

explain how you went about your compression test.the results are close to each other,if a little low.

the only real source of water,is from a head gasket[which i doubt] or the pump seal.

just pull the lump,lets see what you have.

Click to expand...

Compression run with throttle open and choke cable pushed all the way in.

With the choke pulled out and throttle wide open they are:

Right 60

Left 90

Please do not ask how I know...





Yeah I am thinking that the cost of a new motor might be more cost effective than the repairs of this one.

One check that sometimes provides useful information is to remove the timing inspection plug and inspect the flywheel while slowly turning the engine crankshaft by hand. If you see coolant drops on the flywheel or a tell-tale rust trail on it, it's fairly certain the water pump mechanical seal has gone bad.



Normally the weep hole will provide a safe outlet for the coolant in the event of a seal failure. Is your weep hole plugged?



Those compression numbers are very low. Another engine may well be in your future.



Edit: Why are there two sets of readings? The first ones did not seem that bad.

DaveF said:

One check that sometimes provides useful information is to remove the timing inspection plug and inspect the flywheel while slowly turning the engine crankshaft by hand. If you see coolant drops on the flywheel or a tell-tale rust trail on it, it's fairly certain the water pump mechanical seal has gone bad.



Normally the weep hole will provide a safe outlet for the coolant in the event of a seal failure. Is your weep hole plugged?



Those compression numbers are very low. Another engine may well be in your future.



Edit: Why are there two sets of readings? The first ones did not seem that bad.

Click to expand...

Dave,

I was a idiot and took the lower set with the choke pulled out.

I was surprised how much of a difference it made so I triple checked and they stayed consistent.

Choke out lower numbers choke in higher numbers.

The engine was cold.



Good idea on looking for coolant or rust.

When I bought the bike it was a non-running bike with no coolant in it.

When I looked at the oil before I bought the bike it was clean and new looking.

Should have told me something.

I think $400 was WAY too much to pay...

Hind sight and all.

OK good info all.

I am posting a couple of camera phone pictures of what I think are the cam chain tensioner. If it is then it looks like my cam chain is in good shape. If I am wrong please let me know.

You can see the white foamy stuff on the tensioner which is why I believe there is water in the oil.













If I am wrong let me know.

Thanks again!



**edit**

If these pictures suck too much to be useful, I have a friend who has a digital camera who is willing to help me tomorrow. I used my cell phone camera.

ramprat06 said:

I also concur that it is a bit early to deem this "lump" worthy of scrapping. Those first numbers aren't too bad, so start looking for the above things.

One thing I do want to know for sure though, you are talking about coolant in the oil, right? Not just water? If it were just water, that might lead to a faulty gasket on the fill plug or filter allowing outside moisture in.

Click to expand...

hey Rat,

I have never ridden it so a faulty oil plug would not allow enough moisture in to make a difference.

It is coolant I am sure, Well not coolant because I never put anti freeze in it always just water for testing. I figured once it had run I would drain the water and fill with the right stuff.



I am looking into the weep hole. Got no idea where it is... looking in the manual as we 'speak'. I am also trying to figure out where the 7 volt regulator is hiding. The temp gauge never moved sooo I am thinking the 7v reg might have gone Tango Uniform. Not too worried about the reg (if I can find it). I have plenty at work. Switching capable of sourcing 5 amps with out too much strain.



Edit** Found where the weep hole is:

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=525



You guys got it all in the quick links section!

This begs more questions. If you just got this bike, and it only has 18k on the clock, why are you doing the cam chain? Might not be relevant to this topic, but it might shed more light on what this motor has gone through.



That impeller looks fugly, but I would think it is something to keep working at. I still have optimism on saving this engine if you keep getting into it bit by bit.

Do you have any other pictures of the whole thing? What other things can you shed light on?



I'd say the money you paid for the bike is okay for a runner, which it seems it was. It will have a chance.



Joel in the Couve

ramprat06 said:

This begs more questions. If you just got this bike, and it only has 18k on the clock, why are you doing the cam chain? Might not be relevant to this topic, but it might shed more light on what this motor has gone through.



That impeller looks fugly, but I would think it is something to keep working at. I still have optimism on saving this engine if you keep getting into it bit by bit.

Do you have any other pictures of the whole thing? What other things can you shed light on?



I'd say the money you paid for the bike is okay for a runner, which it seems it was. It will have a chance.



Joel in the Couve

Click to expand...

I had another discussion in general where I posted this noise the bike makes when it runs.



http://www.outsidetheindustry.com/temp_pictures/cx500_noise.wav



It sounds nasty when it idles. The engine has to be at idle RPM or higher. Just the starter does not push the engine fast enough for the noise to start.



I was trying to hunt down the source of the noise.

I pulled the cam inspection plug and it was not any noisier than with the plug in. I thought a bad cam would be.

It sounds like the audio clips I have heard of a bad cam chain although. I pulled the valve covers and it was not any clearer. It sounds like it is coming from the front so I pulled the radiator. The fan does not seem to be it. I did not see anyplace where it is contacting or hear anything more distinct with my head a few inches from the fan while it is idling.

It all has left with with an "I guess cam chain must be it" feeling.

I do not think the adjuster looks bad although from my (crappy phone camera) pictures I posted earlier.



I will get better pictures tonight and post them.

I am thinking the engine has to come out regardless.

It is the only way I know of to do the water pump oil seal.

The links in the Quick Reference talk about the water seal not the oil seal.

Unless I have misunderstood.



**EDIT**

I am going to use Larry's method of adjusting the valves because mine are very noisy. Read up on that last night so will try it tonight. Maybe that will make it quiter.

You're correct, you have to pull the rear cover to replace the camshaft oilseal, so a good chance to check your camchain/guides/tensioner while you're there as you say.



Would be a good idea to replace the mech. seal while you're in there, it's very likely shagged.



A new stator would be a good pre-emptive measure too if you're financial. Otherwise, if it passes the testing procedures leave it alone and hope for the best.



The darker the stator colour, the more suspect it is.