Joined
·
637 Posts
I'm thinking of installing a SDC Heads-Up Voltage Monitor, just wondering if anyone else is running a voltage monitor their turbo and where they are wiring it in at...
Voltage Monitor
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Joined
·
3,847 Posts
Hmm
Not expensive, compact and simple to fit for sure but
steady green at 12.9 to 15.24?
the CX normally regulates at 14-14.5 so
I'd be concerned at both these voltages and would prefer
something more informative that tells me I'm in the 13.8-14.5 zone
50Khz sampling rate?
Once every 20 micro seconds?
Huh?
Why? what the hell for?
Sounds like sales speak to me
Once a second is adequate
I wouldnt have it on my bike
Not expensive, compact and simple to fit for sure but
steady green at 12.9 to 15.24?
the CX normally regulates at 14-14.5 so
I'd be concerned at both these voltages and would prefer
something more informative that tells me I'm in the 13.8-14.5 zone
50Khz sampling rate?
Once every 20 micro seconds?
Huh?
Why? what the hell for?
Sounds like sales speak to me
Once a second is adequate
I wouldnt have it on my bike
Joined
·
637 Posts
Reg - check out this link. Perhaps you prefer a digital one that can be inaccurate in damp conditions? What are you running on your cx?
Furthermore, I started this thread asking if anyone else was running a voltage monitor on their turbo and where they were wiring it in at...
Having said that, I would like to refocus the thread to that purpose if at all possible.
Joined
·
51 Posts
I don`t have one yet but will be adding one as I don`t know the history on my stator,I was told engine was "rebuilt" but no documentation. I will most likely wire it direct to the battery(with an inline fuse of course) to eliminate any voltage drop through wiring and relays etc.
Joined
·
761 Posts
The clock drains the battery enough, wire it so it only operates when the ignition is on.
I've been using the Showchromes for 7+ years now on both my bikes and oddly I find them to be accurate to 1/10 of a volt as per my Fluke and UEI meters. The Showchrome's clock isn't needed since the bike obviously has one so I just tie the two positives together and leave the switch set to lap timer instead of the clock.
I've been running them off the fused area up front which has been ok but eventually I'm going to run the wiring closer to the battery. As you mentioned there is a voltage drop up front which really shows up when you have the brake light or turn signals on during idle. You can still have 14 volts at the battery while the fused area drops below 12 sets off the beeping alarm.
I'm thinking the main relay may be a good spot to get power or I may do the relay mod for the headlight and grab power off that while getting a much brighter headlight.
I ran it to a fused accessory line right off the battery, always on. The LCD digital meter takes very little power and I like to see what the battery is putting out at rest. It is a cheap JC Whitney unit that I bought over a decade ago, but it reads to a tenth of a volt and has a red, yellow, and green LEDs to indicate under 12v, ~12-13.4v, and over ~ 13.5v, respectively. That way I have a obvious indicator as well as a detailed reading if I wish to look closer. I know an off-the-battery setup is an indirect way of reading stator output, but it gives me a good report of the general health of the battery and stator- that the battery is taking and holding a charge, how low the voltage dips when starting, how long it takes the battery to ramp up to charging voltage, etc.. If if the stator starts shorting to ground or between windings, there is no way the battery is going to read over 13v. with the fuel pump, headlight, fan, and other loads on it. There should be plenty of warning.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
