Its not so much the distance but how far away from the nearest help you are if it breaks down.
Maybe reprints do...Haynes never had coloured drawings (the only coloured images I've ever seen in Haynes are the pics of spark plugs) and Clymer started printing the wiring drawings in black & white years ago, rendering them virtually useless.
Maybe enough people complained that they started doing it right again.Maybe reprints do...
If this particular ride required the mods and experience you are describing, it would be way above my pay grade. I still have PTSD from riding the Moki Dugway on a cruiser a few years ago.As an off road rider with a CX500 modified pretty heavily to be a dirt bike, there are a few things you can do that will help. I have no idea what your off road experience is like, or how off road your ride will really get.
If you are feeling frisky, here's a couple other tidbits that are not necessary at all but might be nice to consider, especially if any of the off road will be challenging or you want to ride fast:
- Those tires are not particularly aggressive, and I have no idea what the sidewall stiffness is like. Running lower tire pressures will help absorb chatter and will give you much improved traction. I would start around 20 psi front and rear. If you try to ride fast in rocks that are embedded in the ground, you may bend a rim on the sharp edge of a rock. I'd recommend a leisurely pace through that stuff instead of bumping pressure up.
- In the sand, use the clutch as little as possible and use a lower gear instead. The CX actually has really good gearing for off road stuff. Slipping the clutch will cook it fast; the CX has a tiny clutch.
- Top of the fork tubes flush with the triple clamps. Don't slide them up through at all. This will give you the most stability in sand (and ground clearance)
- Add preload spacers or stiffer fork springs, run 10wt or 20wt fork oil. This will help prevent the suspension from bottoming out. Bottoming the suspension off road often results in bent rims in addition to being uncomfortable and causing crashes. There is other stuff you can do to the suspension, but this is basic and cheap and will make any off road much more enjoyable
- Keep a close eye on your air filter, and grease the sealing surfaces of the filter in the airbox. Make sure the airbox connectors are PERFECTLY sealed. It's amazing the places that desert powder can find a way in.
- Steering head bearings. Either keep an eye on the stock ones or upgrade to tapered rollers. Gravel and dirt roads will hammer the stock bearings and will probably make them notchy pretty quickly, where tapered rollers have much higher load capacity.
- Do an oil change right before you leave, and right after you get back. The normal oil change interval doesn't apply when you're dealing with sand/off road.
- Check all the engine mount bolts and the bolts that mount the front wishbone to the frame. Don't skip this. If any of the mounts come loose, it's possible to crack the front mounts right off the block. If they are tight, you have nothing to worry about.
Sounds like an awesome trip!
- If your bike doesn't have crashbars, there are usually some on ebay or elsewhere. You might want to pick up a set. The factory option Hondaline ones are my favorite.
- The factory fan is engine-driven and thus engine speed dependent. That can be a challenge in slow going. An electric fan resolves this problem.
- Rider position, specifically meaning bars. Find some bars that have a bit less pullback that you can stand up a bit with. A stock CX doesn't have much suspension; your legs can add a lot to that if there is a really rough section or a surprise hole in the road that you can't get slowed down for.
- In the same vein as standing, the stock rubber pegs aren't great for standing. I bought a set of large pegs for a KLR and adapted them so my boots could actually grip the bike.
I don't think you need any upgrades. Just make sure all is in good operating condition, and have tires appropriate to the riding surface.If this particular ride required the mods and experience you are describing, it would be way above my pay grade. I still have PTSD from riding the Moki Dugway on a cruiser a few years ago.
100 mile range is the minimum they specify but I am carrying a two gallon rotopax container with me just in case.Where do I sign up. I was planning on going to Arizona April this year but the Virus made us cancel. Paved roads down there are called highways.
The CX500 custom only has about 100 mile range. Will you be able to make it to the check points or will you need to carry an extra supply. With a group of riders it's going to be a dust bowl. I think I would look into an off road helmet and handlebars as well as all the other comments.
You won't need it. Thats way too much liquid weight swinging it around. The guy last year finally through his off cause it was too much to manage. Just bring two small fuel bottles and you will be fine. Everyone else has extra fuel in case you need it. I have murrays carbs and avg 89 miles to a tank and I never ran out with my little fuel bottles.100 mile range is the minimum they specify but I am carrying a two gallon rotopax container with me just in case.
Thanks Luke.You won't need it. Thats way too much liquid weight swinging it around. The guy last year finally through his off cause it was too much to manage. Just bring two small fuel bottles and you will be fine. Everyone else has extra fuel in case you need it. I have murrays carbs and avg 89 miles to a tank and I never ran out with my little fuel bottles.
You must pack light with this bike already being 500 pounds...else it will ride you around AZ, not you ride it haha.
Rebuild your front forks with progressives (use the spacers that come with it) and get good seals and boots. Mine blew out the first year.
What rear tire you have? There is only one company that makes an offroad wheel for the 16inch rear wheel. At least that is what me and Jared concluded.
Now that I've torn into the bike somewhat, I feel I can speak to this FSM vs. Clymer debate. Note that this is not my first rodeo. I've done three total restorations now (two cars and one bike, not including this one) but I still consider myself a novice.Maybe enough people complained that they started doing it right again.
But the factory manual is still better. We are pretty spoiled with these bikes having such good FSMs. I had occasion to take the "new" engine for my GoldWing apart a few years ago and when putting it back together I had to keep flipping between chapters in the FSM and occasionally asking online where to find stuff after paging through the book a couple of times trying to find it. There were even a couple of things I never did find in the book when I needed it (although I was sure I had seen it before) and had to resort to Haynes & Clymer for. If I had been working on the CX it would have been so much easier because all of that information is laid out in one chapter of the CX family books.