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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The surfaces of both my valve covers are kind of blotchy and greyish in some places. Can these be polished or somehow treated to clear them up? I've tried Mother's and chrome polish with no success. Can they be chromed? Thanks.
 

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They're covered with clear coat paint and the stuff is tough, you can't polish through it.



Get some of the nasty type paint stripper that contains methylene chloride to get the clear off first (paint it on, wait 15 minutes, clean with a soft brush and hot water)



They'll polish up nicely after that, especially if you have a bufing wheel and some really find compound or just use the Mothers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They're covered with clear coat paint and the stuff is tough, you can't polish through it.



Get some of the nasty type paint stripper that contains methylene chloride to get the clear off first (paint it on, wait 15 minutes, clean with a soft brush and hot water)



They'll polish up nicely after that, especially if you have a bufing wheel and some really find compound or just use the Mothers.
I just viewed your post of a few days ago in General Discussion re: Chrome. Thanks much.
 

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I've restored alot of alum parts off of many differant scooters over the years. I have never tried the stripper u mentioned..sounds like a good idea tho...It seems that alot of parts get pitted under the platic clear coat... I have always used wet-n-dry sandpaper.. depending on the severity of the pitting for really severe cases i start with 220 grade and work my way to 1200 to 1500. it cuts all the clear coat and the pitting, then its ready for polishing. If i have a part with roadrash i use a body file and carefully file till i get below the level of the rash, then start with the wet-n-dry till i get the finish i want... If u take your time, u can't even tell the part from new. There's nothing more satisfying than making a silk purse out of a sows ear!! Good Riding Mike
 

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Quite honestly the stripper makes it a lot easier, it gets into all the smallest places.



Most any stripper MAY work, I'm just used to using the profesional stuff and you can get it at most any home improvement or hardware store except possibly in California. It will clearly list methylene chloride somewhere on the label.



They also are not kidding about wearing gloves when using it. Keep a terry cloth and some paint thinner nearby when you're using it just in case you get some on you, then follow with lots of soap and hot water. No problem if you get it off yourself quickly, but if not you won't notice it for about a minute then it starts burning like nothing you've ever felt before.
 

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yeah it is but give it a couple months of use and it will be covered in road grime. I must have spent 2 hours on the radiator, clutch cover and air intakes alone just for upkeep.
 

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yeah it is but give it a couple months of use and it will be covered in road grime. I must have spent 2 hours on the radiator, clutch cover and air intakes alone just for upkeep.


OldOkie had great luck polishing most everything on mine except for the oil filter housing, said it acted like a different type of metal and just wouldn't respond even after I had stripped all the clear and aluminum paint off of it. I guess it will just get painted again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I found this on the Illinois Public Health website re: carbon monoxide. I found it interesting and thought it might be helpful.



"Methylene chloride, a solvent in some paints and varnish strippers, is absorbed by the body and changed to CO. Using products that contain methylene chloride for more than a few hours can raise CO levels in the blood seven to 25 times normal. People with pre-existing cardiac conditions who use these products in unventilated spaces risk heart attack and death. If you do use solvents containing this substance, make sure the area is properly ventilated." Methylene Chloride is also called Dichloromethane.



http://www.idph.state.il.us/public/hb/hbcarbon.htm
 

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Fortunately it's worse than fiberglass resin, you can't adjust to it enough to stay around the fumes for any period of time.
 

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I powder coated mine silver and CC, as well as the radiator covers and exhaust fins, 15 years later still looks great. I would not bother chroming, trying to get chrome between the fins will be very difficult and one chip you knackered.
 

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WOW! It sure does.



I know you like to keep busy so I'm willing to trade you my stuff for yours. Mine hasn't been polished yet so there are many hours of enjoyment ahead for you. It's the least I can do.


Actually i'm an outsource guy. The only reason they are polished is because Larry said he wanted to polish them. So I boxed up some stuff and sent it out.
 

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I only worked hard on the cx500c 1980 valve covers that were painted black to get them to a aluminum shine. My 81 cx covers were scracted from the past wrecks it had from the last owner. I did some other work to shine things up but nothing what I see here. Lots of oxidation under the paint. Now there on my 81.
 

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