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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I adjusted the valves yesterday, and found that the gap in the intakes were generally about 0.05mm, instead of 0.10mm. The exhaust vales were 0.10, pretty close to the 0.12 recommended. is it normal for the gap to decrease over time? The engine sounds the same, was it really a big deal that it was a little off? Is it better to have too much of a gap than too little?
 

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I adjusted the valves yesterday, and found that the gap in the intakes were generally about 0.05mm, instead of 0.10mm. The exhaust vales were 0.10, pretty close to the 0.12 recommended. is it normal for the gap to decrease over time? The engine sounds the same, was it really a big deal that it was a little off? Is it better to have too much of a gap than too little?
id agree,real problems will occur with tight valves,irrespective of the engine design
 

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id agree,real problems will occur with tight valves,irrespective of the engine design
Paul, Next time you have the rocker-covers off, completely unscrew the inlet valve adjusters from their rockers, and have a look through the threads, at the top of the valve stems. Seemingly tight valve clearances often are actually correct valve clearances, BUT the feeler gauge show them as being tight, due to the gauge not going down into the small pocket which has been worn in the end of the valve stem - by the ball end of the adjuster.

Either have the end of the valve stem ground down to flat again, or use a dial-gauge to check valve clearances.

Using a dial gauge is the preferred option, as the "grinding-down" operation may take the valve stem end into the non-hardened part of the stem.
 

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Paul, Next time you have the rocker-covers off, completely unscrew the inlet valve adjusters from their rockers, and have a look through the threads, at the top of the valve stems. Seemingly tight valve clearances often are actually correct valve clearances, BUT the feeler gauge show them as being tight, due to the gauge not going down into the small pocket which has been worn in the end of the valve stem - by the ball end of the adjuster.

Either have the end of the valve stem ground down to flat again, or use a dial-gauge to check valve clearances.

Using a dial gauge is the preferred option, as the "grinding-down" operation may take the valve stem end into the non-hardened part of the stem.


Paul,



Are you ever going to send those pics? I've left an email, voice mail, and now posting??



Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry Pete, I got busy, had fewer/crappier pics than I thought I did, and I couldn't find the two aftermarket 500T fork braces in my box of CXT parts. I'll post what I have shortly. Have you been considering buying those two 500TCs from Mr. airplane/beer brewer? In what direction are you leaning on the matter?
 

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Paul, Next time you have the rocker-covers off, completely unscrew the inlet valve adjusters from their rockers, and have a look through the threads, at the top of the valve stems. Seemingly tight valve clearances often are actually correct valve clearances, BUT the feeler gauge show them as being tight, due to the gauge not going down into the small pocket which has been worn in the end of the valve stem - by the ball end of the adjuster.

Either have the end of the valve stem ground down to flat again, or use a dial-gauge to check valve clearances.

Using a dial gauge is the preferred option, as the "grinding-down" operation may take the valve stem end into the non-hardened part of the stem.


OK, I'd like to know more on how to use a a dial-gauge to check valve clearances. What you said about the small pocket make perfect sense to me and I wish I had looked at that when I did the adjustments this past spring with a feeler gauge. The bike did run better, but I had just completed a stator replacement and went through all the harness connections so I don't really know if the valve adjustments contributed to the general well being of the bike...
 

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Sorry Pete, I got busy, had fewer/crappier pics than I thought I did, and I couldn't find the two aftermarket 500T fork braces in my box of CXT parts. I'll post what I have shortly. Have you been considering buying those two 500TCs from Mr. airplane/beer brewer? In what direction are you leaning on the matter?


Hi Paul,



I was waiting on pics from you to be able to make a good solid decision on the bikes. That is currently where things sit. Thanks for your help.



Pete
 

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Hi Paul,



I was waiting on pics from you to be able to make a good solid decision on the bikes. That is currently where things sit. Thanks for your help.



Pete
Turboaddict, You just set the dial gauge - on its magnetic mount - straight above each valve adjuster in turn, and rock the rocker from valve stem to pushrod. The difference in dial gauge reading gives you your valve clearance.

Subtract about 0.2 thou for oil film thickness on various parts-interfaces while the motor is running.

This is VERY dependent on your upper rocker-to-shaft clearances being minimal. If you are worried about those clearances, then use a small screwdriver to lift the end of the rocker when you are taking the rocker lift reading above adjuster.
 
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