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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a trick to this?
I did just like the repair manual said, brought the left cylinder to TDC and looked at the timing mark through the little peep hole on the right back side of the engine, aligned the timing mark on the rotor to the arrow on the block, then did the same thing on the right side. Right and left are as you are sitting on the bike right? (Clutch, shifter on the left, brakes on the right)Adjusted exhaust to .004 and intake to .003. Sounds like a diesel, so I know I did something wrong buy I don't have a clue what, and yes, the bike was cold, well as cold as it can be in August. Any suggestions?
 

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The valves need to be set at TDC on the compression stroke. If this is not done they will clatter.



As the crankshaft rotates, every other TDC point is on the compression stroke.
 

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You should also make sure that as you approach the timing mark you continue slowly and stop dead on it, if you pass it and try to turn back to it the slack moves to the other side of the chain.



In other words, if you don't hit it just right go ahead and make another set of turns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK even though I had the timing marks right I still could be 180% out? That sounds like it may be my problem.
 

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Yes, you could have been out 180 degrees. When you are at TDC on the compression stroke there should be slack in all the rocker arms, you should be able to move them all slightly because all 4 valves should be closed.



Actually you would have been out 360 degrees, one full rotation.
 

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Get a T handle screwdriver or screwdriver with a handle that won't slide down the spark plug hole and as you rotate the engine and look at the marks watch the screwdriver. It is very easy to tell where tdc is as it raises and falls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Get a T handle screwdriver or screwdriver with a handle that won't slide down the spark plug hole and as you rotate the engine and look at the marks watch the screwdriver. It is very easy to tell where tdc is as it raises and falls.
WOW! It's amazing how well things work when you do them right!!It's vewwy vewwy quiet now!!
 

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ALSO. . if you are on the compression stroke all the valves will be closed and you will be able to move both the intake and exhaust valve rockers. You will be able to move them and make them click a little. When adjusted correctly you will still be able to move the rockers but not a lot. BillRod]
 

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The only trick I use is to watch the inlet valves

on whichever cylinder I'm working on

AS I see the valves start to shut I know its coming up

to TDC on that cylinder and so I continue turning the engine

( Go easy here !)

whilst watching the marks on the rotor through the inspection hole.

Also when you have it at TDC on the compressio stroke,

you should feel a little play in both inlet and exhaust rockers.
 

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Valve adjustment is way easier if you have one of those Honda tools for the small little 2mm square nut. I think Shep linked one on the old forum a long time ago.
 

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Valve adjustment is way easier if you have one of those Honda tools for the small little 2mm square nut. I think Shep linked one on the old forum a long time ago.


Stich or someone around here outlined how to make one of those with a common Roberts screw and a piece of dowel rod.
 

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What is the pitch on the thread?





Is it possible to set the valves by tightening and then backing off by degrees?



-Brendan


You tighten the threaded piece/tappet to the correct thickness and then by act of god tighten the nut causing it to biked against the threaded hole and hopefully the thickness didn't move to far in or out or you will have to redo it.
 

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What is the pitch on the thread?

Is it possible to set the valves by tightening and then backing off by degrees?



-Brendan


Charles's father used to have a method for doing this,,I found it using a google search.



DickInRaleigh 06-20-2007, 9:50 PM

It may seem shade tree mechanic but it works perfectly. I find the spot where the adjuster is loose. Screw the adjuster in till it bottoms out (finger tight) and the back it out 1/6th or a revolution. You won't be on home plate but in the batters box. Great method for a quick on the road adjustment. I determined this by knowing what clearance Mr. Honda specified and the thread pitch of the adjuster and the amount to turn the adjuster out for the desired clearance. Have done this when installing the heads and after final torquing of the head bolts. Have not had a noisy lifter yet.

Dick in Raleigh





where he wrote "1/6 or a revolution", I think it should be "1/6 of a revloution",,,,or 60 degrees.
 

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Sounds like I should give that a try. A lot of good info came from Dick.



I should probably add it to the quick reference info too.
 

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where he wrote "1/6 or a revolution", I think it should be "1/6 of a revloution",,,,or 60 degrees.


I don't know about you, but the way this country is going, maybe "or a revolution" is spot on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Stitch, I am upping you reputation by one for this post. What a great idea!!!!
 
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