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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, folks, this is driving me a little bonkers.



My turn signals wouldn't work. Let me clarify a - all the bulbs light up, but the sognals wont flash.



My first thought was the flasher unit is bad. It's almost 30 years old, and may be done. Or maybe the battery is low; I don't know how old it is, and came with the bike. So I eventually ran the bike, and they still wouldn't flash. I think it's an electronic relay, so maybe the bike running has no effect on it anyway.



Okay, so I finally bought a flasher unit at Autozone for nine bucks or so. It's electro-mechanical (not thermal), and three-pronged like the original. Its a tridon 13L or L13. Supposed to work with 1-10 bulbs, unlike other units designed to flash fast with any less than 2 or 3 functioning bulbs. The new flasher did the same as the old one; turns on the signals, but no flash. I even tried mixing up the connections in all 6 combinations (permutations?). One set of connections flashed all 4 bulbs kind of like a hazard light. I guess the new flasher may be no good, but I personally doubt it. Could be. Maybe I'll try it in my car...



One of the PO's had messed around with the wiring, most noticeably to add a blade type main fuse and a manual switch to the radiator fan. I have since restored the fan thermo switch to original wiring diagram, although I haven't been able to test it yet.



The rest of the wiring seems fine, but I'm still skeptical. I measured the white, grey, and green turn signal relay wires to ground for continuity and voltage. My battery is low and reads 11.76 volts.



Ignition Switch off: The green wire (ground) reads 0 ohms and 0 volts. This seems correct.

Grey wire (flash output?) reads Inf. Ohms and 0 Volts. Seems normal again.

White (w/grn stripe) reads 2 ohms (what?! The positive supply grounded?) and 0 volts.



I looked at the wiring diagram to see if the white (w/grn stripe) wire is grounded (which doesn't make much sense) and it's not. It does, however, go back through the fuse block and connects with the brown/white wire which supplies light bulbs, which are technically grounded (although through a resistance). One of my two horns doesn't work, which is supplied from the white/grn wire maybe there's a problem there?



Okay, my voltages with ignition switch on, turn signal on:

Green: 0.04V

Grey: 0.14V

White/grn: 10.89V



Okay, my voltages with ignition switch on, turn signal off:

Green: 0.04V

Grey: 0.01V

White/grn: 10.75V



Anyone have any reference info with working signals? Anyone know if the white/grn and brown/white wires should have continuity to ground, perhaps through the bulbs? The bike will run fine, otherwise. Brake lights work, tail light works.



Any help would be truly appreciated.



Coop in FL.
 

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Are you sure the flasher unit you removed was the origional. Mine GL650i only has a two prong flasher. The origional Honda unit did fail and I replaced it with an electronic two prong flasher from Autozone. There is a third green wire with a spade connector on it hanging by the flasher but it has never been used. You may need a two prong flasher.
 

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Are you sure the flasher unit you removed was the origional. Mine GL650i only has a two prong flasher. The origional Honda unit did fail and I replaced it with an electronic two prong flasher from Autozone. There is a third green wire with a spade connector on it hanging by the flasher but it has never been used. You may need a two prong flasher.
Same here. I have a wire hanging down at the flasher that isn't used. I think you need a two prong(Like he said)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, guys, for the responses. The wiring diagram shows three wires, and the wiring harness with three prongs and

there seems original/unmolested. I did hook up 16v to the new flasher and it clicks properly. The old flasher clicks once but doesn't continue. 12.8 v might do it.



I also noticed that the "original" mitsuba flasher says 12.8V, so maybe I have a short somewhere or maybe my regulator or alternator aren't working properly. I haven't had a chance to test the regulator since putting the bike back together.
 

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I totally overlooked the fact that in your origional post you did state that you only had 10.8V. That's the voltage of an overall weak battery or an otherwise good battery with a dead cell. What's the voltage with the bike running? Try putting a batery charger or jumper cable to the bike and retest. You should be getting 12 - 13 volts with the bike off and 14 - 15 volts with it running. Low voltage could certainly affect the flasher unit.
 

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i would suggest you get a new battery and try that
 

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When I put turn signals on my bike it took a few hours to get the wires correct. Just check those and also check the fuses. Just to be safe.
 

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So glad to find this forum! I'm customizing my '81 CX500D. I just replaced the stock rear signals with after-market ones. They have the same single-wire configuration and they are acting like the ones you guys are describing. Every time I plug the old ones back in they flash just fine. When I plug in the new ones-no flash, they just come on. Everything else checks out. ?????????
 

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If the new aftermarket ones are using LED's, they will not draw enough current to work the flasher. Solution is to get an electronic type flasher rather than a thermal one. Or add a resistor to the new turn signals.
 

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Coop

When I've had a faulty or flat battery, my flashers would often not

run properly until I had the motor running.

12V is a nominal figure, The bikes and most vehicles actually run at about a regulated 14V

I've been using off the shelf generic flasher units for years.

all other things being equal ( supp'y connection bulbs etc) you can use any old flasher unit on these bikes

Thats with incandescent bulbs by the way, LEDs need a suitable flasher unit due to the

low current they use.
 

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Blue, thanks for the info. That may just be the problem. I also discovered last night that when my rpms are up they do begin to flash. The new ones aren't LED but they are much lower voltage than the originals. Will any motorcycle, electronic flasher work, especially since all my lights are still incandescent bulbs?
 

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You don't need a special motorcycle flasher. Just go to Autozone, Advance Auto, Oriley's, etc... and get the cheapest electronic flasher you can find. They are usually $6 - $12. Make sure it's electronic and not thermal so it will work with any kind of lights.
 

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So I got my new electronic flasher which had 3 prongs labeled B, L and E. My old thermal flasher had only 2 which are labeled B and L. I switched the wires from the old one to the new one being careful to put them onto the prongs with the corresponding labels. What I got was no lights at all. Not only do my turn signals not flash but they don't even come on now. I checked the bulbs to be sure they weren't burned out and the filaments still look good. I hooked up the old thermal flasher and the lights came on but didn't blink. Any idea what that means? I should also mention that the bike itself has three wires (white, black and green-the green wasn't hooked up to the thermal flasher but the signals flashed with the thermal flasher). So my thermal flasher must have been a replacement for the original which must've had 3 wires? Is this 3 wire the key. I did go ahead and try hooking it to the other prong but still got nothing. What am I doing wrong?
 

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I think the E terminal needs to be grounded?
 

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Spend another 6 bucks and just buy a two prong elctronic flasher and be done with it. These bikes origionally came with a two prong flasher like you removed. The green wire was not hooked up to anything. Since it's green I figure it's a spare ground.
 

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Ok. So I traced the green wire and found it wasn't making a good ground. After securing it I hooked it to the additional terminal (E). Wouldn't you know it-the damn thing works perfectly now! Thanks for all the advice guys! Couldn't have figured it out without your advice.
 

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Ok. So I traced the green wire and found it wasn't making a good ground. After securing it I hooked it to the additional terminal (E). Wouldn't you know it-the damn thing works perfectly now! Thanks for all the advice guys! Couldn't have figured it out without your advice.


I have the same problem on my cx500d that I just got. It has a two prong flasher with a green wire just hanging out. except my rear blinkers work just fine bike on or off and the front ones will be on running mode but no flash. I guess it could be the battery since it is reading low voltage like 10-11 but could it also need a three prong electronic flasher? also ebaztec, what flasher model did you get and where did the spare green connect on the body?

Im definitely a newbie and still learning as much as I can about bikes
 

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Dan, check your bulbs first. The front ones use a dual filament type, the rear a single filament style. Then check the ground for the front blinkers. There may be a tab inside your headlight bucket that needs to have a green ground terminal plugged on to.



Your two prong flasher is correct. The extra green wire just hangs loose, don't worry about it. If the rear flash OK, the flasher is fine.



Edit your profile please, showing your year and model bike in the signature block and put your location in your profile also.
 

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Dan, check your bulbs first. The front ones use a dual filament type, the rear a single filament style. Then check the ground for the front blinkers. There may be a tab inside your headlight bucket that needs to have a green ground terminal plugged on to.



Your two prong flasher is correct. The extra green wire just hangs loose, don't worry about it. If the rear flash OK, the flasher is fine.



Edit your profile please, showing your year and model bike in the signature block and put your location in your profile also.


Blue,

Thanks for the advice. I have already changed the double filament bulbs and have checked that green ground connected to the inside of the body of the headlamp as well. When I checked it with the multimeter in the ohm setting instead of reading zero or any kind of constant number the dial was going nuts reading a bunch of different numbers. How would I fix that? I have also read that new blinkers seem to somehow not work with the ol' flasher relay but when they put back the old ones it did work...I, however, bought this bike with the new blinkers already installed so I don't have access to the old blinkers.
 

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If you were using the multimeter in the "ohm" setting and were checking the circuit hot, you will get all sorts of readings. But maybe not for long, as the meter can be burnt out doing this.



You can use the multimeter on the DC voltage scale, set it to the lowest voltage that is above 12 volts. Then open up one of the signals and remove the bulb. Use your probes to touch one of the bulb base contacts in the socket, and the other probe on the socket shell. Be careful not to bridge from the base contacts to the shell with the probe tip or you will be fuse shopping quickly.



One contact should read 12 volts with the key on and the turn switch off. This is the running light circuit. The other contact should read 12 volts intermittently when the signal switch is moved to that side. If neither one happens, try moving the ground probe to the negative battery terminal and recheck. If the running light circuit is good, but the signal one is not, make sure that you have the proper color wire attached inside the headlight bucket. You can probe for flashing at other connectors inside the bucket. If you find the right on, just hook it up to the signal light. A cheap ($3.00) 12 volt test lamp works a lot better for this operation as you can watch for the flash instead of watching numbers.



It is also possible that there is a issue at the handlebar switch, but if the rears are working properly, it is probably OK. Now that I am thinking about this, there may be a circuit that turns off the running lights when the front signals are activated. I need to consult a wiring diagram to know for sure.
 
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