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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, spent the afternoon dropping the engine. Finally got it out and decided to pull the advance cover off. Now im getting nervous as not only is there a crack in the case where it goes, but the stupid gasket I have doesnt seem to fit it properly. The crack is in the ist pick at the top of the old gasket just to the right of center. also, the new gasket (3rd pic) doesnt have a solid block out of the top section like the old one does. I am trying but do not think the old one will come off in usable form.











I assume oil doesnt go in this area, but probably blow by gasses. I found some traces of oily carbon crystals and dont know if I should be worried. It looks like where the crack is is just a void so Im not too worried about that. I am hoping that even though the gasket doesnt fit right that since its only to vent gasses (I assume) it should be no big deal.



While I know the water pump gasket is ok (the new ones on there) I am now worried that the rear case gasket may be "off". It looks good but will not know until I get the case off.



So, am I assuming right that the crask and little bit of oily carbon is no big deal, or is it a sign of impending doom
 

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Ahh I see

the gasket you have is for a CDI bike.

different cover, different gasket.

It looks like the rear has taken a clout and the crack due to the

case just to right of the rubber harness grommet being bent down

somewhat



Re gaskets

You have gasket 11396-415-000 (CDI)

when you need gasket 30373-MA1-000 (TI)

Or make your own, I do
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks :) will probably make my own. I got the water pump housing off, and it looks clean, but not sure about the polo mint It is stuck tight on there and I sure dont want to break it. Here is what I had on there from rear of bike inwards, Nut, Copper washer, Impeller, and that white lifesaver that is really stuck on the shaft (impeller came off easy).









Well, I sure hope so far so good ... oh, quick question, there is a single wire going from the stator harness to the bottom of the engine, commencts to a long sensor that seem to be for pressure (inside end has a spring loaded brass end).



Going for the rear cover, god I hope it looks nice inside, getting a bit paranoid
 

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Looks better than the one I took apart recently

I see the bottom left 6mm bolt sheered off

oww !



That light green/red wire is the neutral switch wire

and the switch is the err.. well... neutral switch
 

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That single wire coming from the lower right side is the neutral indicator switch wire. If you look at the shifter drum with the cover off, you will see a raised hump that grounds out this wire when the transmission is in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all, your making feel a lot more comfortable doing this. Now I just removed the rear case bolts and got the gasket to break loose (about 20 min with a knife blade tapping it around the perimeter) and it feed up nice, but I have an issue (apart from some old pouring out, seems I didnt drain it all lol). As I loosened the back case, the polo mint cane loose, but so did a metal shell,spring and a plastic bit that seems to fit in another plastic bit (lol I know i have to stop being so techinacal). The manual I have doesnt show these bits, going to dig out the other two and see if they show it.







Now, do I have to remove what appears to be a centrifigal advance mechanism from the crank, as it sure looks like it has to come off for the case to come off. Also, does this thing sit on a key on the shaft, if not how the hell can i get it back in the same spot.







Going to do some digging and hopefully someone can help me out, as this engine seems to look a lot different from the ones shown in most of the threads (or maybe just me getting intimidated).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea Reg, before I found this wonderfull forum and after I put the bike back together I had a leak and figured I would fix it by snugging up the bolts (maybe snugging is a bit to soft a word). Well at least Im lucky and there is about 1/8" of bolt outside the case, going to try to dremmil a slot in it and see if I can back it out.



Sitting here dying to take of the case and look inside (can see a bit of the stator through the advace hole). Want to take it carefull and not mess up so will find something to eat and maybe I will have an answer on the advance thing and get it off tonight
So far this has been a lot of fun (keeping fingers crossed)
 

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Yes the pulsar has to come off,I have never taken a T.I. motor apart but you can probably scratch a small mark on the plate and the case to use to line it back up.



Remember once you have it off and you are sliding the cover off,,keep a thumb on the shifter shaft to keep it from pulling out with the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, rear case off (thanks Allan, kept that shifter shaft from coming out), here are the pics. Took the advance unit off, but it has a locating pin so shouldnt be any issues getting it back the right way. I have a lot of oily carbon buildup near the water pump mech seal, guess im glad I decided to replace it. Rest of the engine looks nice. I pulled the stator and looked it over, but cant see any visible signs of a short, but its there, hard short to the stator core.















Now, just have to find a way to get the rotor off, may have to put a wrench on the front crank bolt as I cant see any place to "jam the gears" to keep it from spinnning. Once I get the nut out I should be able to get it off with the larger bolt (which I need to buy tomorow as well as one for the fan)





Seems all three manuals I have sho the CDI bikes
the hunt continues lol
 

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I think if you hold the crank with the front bolt,,it will just probably just loosen the bolt on the front when you try to tighten the bolt in the flywheel.



If you screw the puller bolt into the flywheel as tight as you can get it and then give it a good sharp whack on the head of the bolt with a hammer, it should move the flywheel off of the shaft a little bit,,re-tighten the bolt and whack it again, repeat this a few times and the flywheel should come off.



You can use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel but you may not need it using the above process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I will see if I can find a strap wrench, as the problem I have now is getting the flywheel bolt thats on the out. I was hoping I could find a spot to "jam" the crank from spinning, but cant see anything in the back and I dont that the front cover off.



I think I will try the strap idea, and if that doesnt work I could have my son stick his fingers under the timing chain. Yea, he may bleed a bit, but at least fingers are soft and wont damage the cam teeth :)
 

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Actually, now that I think about this a bit more,I think I had it backwards in the post above, you probably could use the front bolt to hold the crank when tightening a bolt into the flywheel,,,it would loosen it if you tried to use it to hold the crank to remove the bolt that is there now.




edit,,an impact wrench would work too.
 

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I struggled with the same issue of trying to apply resistance when turning in the puller bolt. I could not access the engine crank (as my cover nut won't come off and then I unfortunately rounded it a bit), but I did use a strap wrench - you'll need one that can deal with a 6" circumference - and even that wasn't pretty...but it worked. I also used Allan's suggestion on hitting the puller bolt on the head. Not certain if that actually worked for me, but I'm sure everything contributed. In the end it was just a little bit more effort and the rotor popped off.
 

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I will see if I can find a strap wrench, as the problem I have now is getting the flywheel bolt thats on the out. I was hoping I could find a spot to "jam" the crank from spinning, but cant see anything in the back and I dont that the front cover off.



I think I will try the strap idea, and if that doesnt work I could have my son stick his fingers under the timing chain. Yea, he may bleed a bit, but at least fingers are soft and wont damage the cam teeth :)


Every Strap wrench I found I broke.

I did this:

http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/to...eels/page__p__74604__fromsearch__1#entry74604



Made my life much easier. Not sure you need to go as far as I did but ....

It was cheap and much MUCH stronger than any strap wrench I have used.
 

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Didn't Shep or Reg ( I always get those guys mixed up
) use a coin and or another spare gear to mesh into the gears back there to lock it up when doing the flywheel?



Edit* I didn't see the post by TonyR before my post was done, so it WAS Shep.
 
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If you are really stuck ,not having a strap wrench ,you could always try using an old leather belt and a pair of vice grips.....none of that Naugahyde stuff though...or a piece of copper in the gears(not the best but will work)
 

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Just for my own information, all that goo I see on the back cover by the impeller location...is that due to a bad mechanical seal or.....do tell what would cause this.
 
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