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Discussion Starter #1
I started the triple bypass process on one of my 2 turbos. Learning a lot about the bike.

Anyway, Engine is out. That was an interesting experience but it actually went pretty good. I did not set any speed records, LOL. But it is out.


I have questions in the following areas:
1) I cannot get the dowel pins out of the water pump cover. THey seem to be rusted in. I also had trouble with the impeller and the sensor rotor, but I have been hitting them with Liquid Wrench which has been working for me in general. Got these parts off after letting the Liquid wrench do its thing. However, I cannot get the dowel pins out.
=> Do I need to get them out? Can I just reuse them? THey look like they would clean up nice, but I do not want to risk chewing them all up in the process of trying to get them out.

2) In general, I am having a very tough time splitting cases. Obviously, I did manage to get hte water pump cover and body off above. In this case, I used a rubber mallot to tap them off. But I CANNOT GET THE REAR COVER OFF.
=> How do I split the case of the rear engine cover?
--> I have followed the service manual to the letter and it in general has been very helpful except in the area of where it says Remove such and such cover. I have now removed the bolts from the rear cover and I cannot get the case split. Even all
the threads do not discuss this. They typically just magically show that the cover is removed. Does everyone have trouble with this or am I doing something wrong or missing a special tool or something.
--> Is there some sort of trick to the process? I have been using the rubber mallot approach but have had no luck.

Any help or questions would be appreciated.



John
 

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Tap it with a rubber mallet to break the gasket seal.
Be very careful to not crack it open too far too quickly, our you will find, a so many have, that the shifter shaft spring will no longer be a spring.
 

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Be really careful as timothy_d advises. lots of small gentle love taps will get it removed - go around the case and gently prise it apart - you only need a few millimetres of movement and continue to prise it gently... there are also two larger dowels for the water pipe passages and these will probably be rusted in place as well.

don't worry about the impeller cover dowels - if rusted in - just leave them alone - try to get them out and you will wreck them.

continue to push the gear selector shaft back into the case as you remove the rear case..

double check you have all the bolts out.....

good luck with it
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks, Guys.

Got it, with a little (actually a lot) patience and a lot of tapping.

Also, I did not have the throttle body and resonance chamber removed. I removed that and noticed there was a metal tab on top of the rear cover case. I used that as something to tap on and the seal broke. THen I slowly worked it free a l ittle at a time. The spring is OK, LOL.

I just need to look at a parts drawing and see where the heck it connects to. I will also need to get the shifter back into the right spot or I suppose I will not be able to get all my gears like others have posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
New question #3) I am at the point of removing the flywheel. The manual talks about removing the front cover in order to hold the shaft while turning off the flywheel bolt. After reading posts, I understood that only the rear cover needs to be removed. Can I get the flywheel off without removing the front cover? I really to not want to take anything more apart if I do not have to.

I picked up a flywheel puller so I am ready to do this soon. any input would be appreciated.
 

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I just did this with a nylon strap wrench around the fly wheel. Be real careful of the pick up mounted on the side of the rotor. Also do NOT bang or shock the rotor as magnetizm can be affected.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
New questions #4

On the camshaft, there are two pins, items 8 and 11 as shown in the picture below. Can anyone tell me the purpose of pin8? This does not seem to be on the regular cx500 but only on the turbo as shown in the picture. Problem is, I did not see this pin when I took my bike apart and just do not see the purpose for it. Pin 11 holds the rotor in place in the groove.

Also, pin 11 seems like it should be longer (see picture) Is this really all the longer it protrudes from the camshaft or is something wrong with my pin11?




below is the hole on the camshaft whre pin 11 goes in


Here you can see the actual pin11 as it sits in the rotor. Does not seem like it would insert into the hole in the camshaft very far. is this correct, something seems wrong


Here is the hole for pin8. Even if I had the pin, because of the angle,not sure I could even put it in. I also just do not see what it is used for. The stator has no groove for pin8. If anyone can explain, please do

 

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ummmmmmmm...i'm not working on a cx500 ?..but i can tell you this !..that is not the stator !..lol. those pin's line up the spark advance that slides over the cam shaft after you install the rear cover !. the stator and flywheel are the big wheel down below..and the stator is attached inside the rear cover..at least they are on my cx650c !..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ummmmmmmm...i'm not working on a cx500 ?..but i can tell you this !..that is not the stator !..lol. those pin's line up the spark advance that slides over the cam shaft after you install the rear cover !. the stator and flywheel are the big wheel down below..and the stator is attached inside the rear cover..at least they are on my cx650c !..lol.
I hate getting old. I got stator on the brain. You are absolutely right. This is not the stator and I know that. This is the Rotor that goes on the camshaft for the pulse generator. The issue still stands in that I do not know what PIN8 is or even if I need it. Looking for someone with knowledge that can tell me what is what. Sometimes I think the hole that I think PIN8 goes into is an oil orfice. Its hard to tell.

any ideas?
 

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johnste1960

You should move your topics over to the Turbo section.
That's were the Turbo owners are. The Turbo experts like Timothy d and 81 custom are over there.

Done,
Joel in the Couve
 

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That far into the motor, you want HomerRod, CXTURBOBOOST (Pete), Dan Topping, Edinlr, or one of the other members who have done a turbo triple bypass.
I haven't done that job yet on a turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That far into the motor, you want HomerRod, CXTURBOBOOST (Pete), Dan Topping, Edinlr, or one of the other members who have done a turbo triple bypass.
I haven't done that job yet on a turbo.
Thanks for moving the thread guys.

I have looked some more at the shop manual and parts diagrams. I am really beginning to believe that the hole I thought Pin8 goes into is actually an oil orifice.

I am beginning to believe that pin 8 holds the cam sprocket boss on the camshaft. If that is the case, I will not be tearing that far into the engine.

If anyone can confirm this, let me know. In the meantime, I am continuing on. Next step is to remove the flywheel to get at the cam chain and tensioners.


Im sure there will be more questions and pictures to come. I have two turbos and this needs to be done on both, so I am pretty sure I will be pretty good at this by the time I am done with the second bike LOL.
 

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Gee - someone said I'm an expert


PLEASE ignore that comment - I like my turbo (still not on the road) - but I don't even consider myself worthy of newbie status compared to the illustrious members and their knowledge about the Turbos would outweigh my meagre information about by comparing an ounce and a ton.

but thanks anyway... :)
 

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Do you have a good flywheel removal tool?
There is a trick that makes it a lot easier.
I have seen destroyed threads when done with brute force.
I have an engine that looks like someone tried to use a rotary hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Do you have a good flywheel removal tool?
There is a trick that makes it a lot easier.
I have seen destroyed threads when done with brute force.
I have an engine that looks like someone tried to use a rotary hammer.

OK Timothy, I have a flywheel puller which is the metric bolt setup one buys. Got it at Dennis Kirk. I did get the bolt off the flywheel using a strap wrench on the flywheel with a couple of socket breaker bars. With that setup, the bolt came out easily.

Now I am using the same strap wrench/breaker bar setup to try to tighten the flywheel puller. I got the flywhell puller as tight as I can get it. the strap wrench seems to be stretching more than the flywheel puller bolt, but no luck yet getting the flywheel off.

I thought I read somewhere that one was suppose to tap a little, then tighten, then tap some more, tighten and keep repeating and suddenly the flywheel lets loose.

You guys got me a little scared though. One post to this thread says if you tap on the flywheel you will disturb the magnetism, and your post describes how others have completely ruined parts. What to do, what to do!!!!!

If you have a trick that makes it a lot easier, Please share LOL Don't make me suffer, LOL. I want this job to be as easy as possible.
 

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That's not the best kind of removal tool, but it will do.
Tap and turn is correct, and you can actually hammer the top of the tool pretty hard.

The ideal tool is a bolt with a rod through the top that is welded in place.
With that tool, my mechanic was able to get a flywheel off with no strap wrench.
A year later, I did it myself with no strap wrench using the tap the top then tap the T method.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ok everyone, Thanks for the help thus far.

New question #5

I have started the reassembly of the engine, New cam chain, tentioner, guides, stator. Got the rear cover all back on. Now I am at the water pump and you guessed it, The infamous mech seal.

After doing a lot of reading, I am a little confused. Are more people pressing in a new seal with an engine out repair, or are they using Shepp's method?

I am having a hard time believing everyone is having issues pressing in a new seal, but a lot of people seem to have mangled their mech seal. They are also talking about a size difference in what I am understanding to be the Yamaha mech seal. The seal I ordered is from David silvers and I believe it to be a direct replacement for the Honda seal

Here is where I am at currently: Scared of ending up with a mangled seal, and no way to press it in, I took a lighter and heated the cup of the original seal in the bike. With just the heat of the lighter, I heard some sizzling and then wallah, out popped the seal from the cup. Easy cheesy Japanizey. Seemed to simple. Now I was thinking this was working pretty good, but I took the new seal, heated it up the same way, and had difictulty removing it from the cup. I finally did get it out, but when I looked closely, I had chipped the top part of the seal (grahphite or whatever) so I pretty much said that one was toast. I had a second seal I was going to use on turbo#2 bike. I heated it and heated it and I could not get the seal out of the cup. I did not want to use a tool on it like I did the first one, as I did not want to ruin it also. In the end, I do not think I can get it hot enough with a lighter. After working on it some more, I still did not get it out and am suspecting I will need a torch. I am also fearing fearing I may have damaged that seal also do to the heating and pulling on it. (there goes $60 in 2 seals)

I have now ordered 2 more seals from Discount Honda. I am actually thinking I want to try punching out the old one now and press fitting in the new one. But I am reading a log of people are having trouble and are honing out the hole with some sort of small lip(see other threads) So my question is which way should I finish this task, Press fit in the new seal, or continue to use Shep's method?

a) If I do use shep's method, just how hot does one need to get these. I am thinking of using my torch out of my plumbing kit and heating it till it sizzles, but I am worried about getting it to hot and damaging the seal.
b) Also, from the wiki page on the description of Shep's method, it talks about using some silicon gasket sealer. Anyone have a exact name and part number or place to pick it up. I picked up some gasket Prime and Seal goop for prepping gaskets. This bottle says it is used in aviation, but it does not appear to harden like glue, so I do not think it will work. Let me know what kind of gasket sealer everyone is using.

At this point, I would almost feel more comfortable press fitting a new compelte seal in, but I have my doubts. Why are not these seals fitting in. I could understand the Yamaha seal may be a little different size, but if that is so, a few dollars more to get the right size seal makes sense. Why is everyone not just using the right size seal and forgoing the Yamaha seal if it is larger.

all thoughts and suggestions are welcome.

THanks
 

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No heat is necessary with the W/P seal.. I have no idea why you are wasting good seals. This is a very simple procedure if you follow the service manual. You are making way too much of this. I'm available by phone if you need help or assistance.

Pete
 
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