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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. So i am crossing items of the list of things wrong before the yard sale bike is back on the rode. Went to fill to motor up with new oil (after draining off the old oil in there) and immediately i have a fast drip from the seal between the engine and transmission. Looks like i may have to change it. So my questions are



1. Where can i find this gasket?

2. Does the motor have to come out to change this? or can i remove the rear tire and drive shaft, unbolt the transmission from the engine and frame and walk it back just far enough to R&R the seal?
 

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If the leak is at the rear of the engine, from the drive shaft, or any other part of the rear engine casing, then yes, it is an engine drop situation. Check the Quick Reference section of General Discussion for lots of helpful info.

*edit* Gasket is readily available at many online places, but this forum highly, and STRONGLY, recommends an OEM Honda gasket for the rear casing.



Joel in the Couve
 

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Transmission gaskets or front cover gaskets are available to order from honda dealers or places online that sell honda parts.



That is also one of the gaskets that isn't the biggest deal in clearance so you can even make your own if you get some 1/32 or maybe it was 1/16 gasket paper that is gas and oil resistant. I bought enough to make that part twice for $3. Then just trace the front cover on to it and cut out the holes and inside.



The engine doesn't need to be dropped but you have to pull the radiator, front engine mount and fan off.
 

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Reading it again I see the first post is a bit confused. He's probably thinking of this like a car.



The transmission is in the engine. Part of the block. There is a front cover and a rear cover. If it's leaking in the rear then the engine needs to be dropped.



Also where is the dripping? Is it on the left side by the shifter lever. If so that seal only costs $5 to fix and can be done with the engine in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow great pictures thanks! Its on the rear of the engine (towards rear tire) and coming out of the riders right hand side. It looks like its leaking right where the cover meets the engine. So if thats the case engine has to come out eh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
darn it... it looks like it could slide, but you all are the experts. Out it comes. Is removal a massive undertaking? Or will jack and floor stands get it out enough to remove the gasket ?
 

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Ok. So i am crossing items of the list of things wrong before the yard sale bike is back on the rode. Went to fill to motor up with new oil (after draining off the old oil in there) and immediately i have a fast drip from the seal between the engine and transmission. Looks like i may have to change it. So my questions are



1. Where can i find this gasket?

2. Does the motor have to come out to change this? or can i remove the rear tire and drive shaft, unbolt the transmission from the engine and frame and walk it back just far enough to R&R the seal?
unless you just want to,or have more reasons to take the engine out.i would say.....dont do it.


last winter i pulled my engine to replace the camchain etc.6 months prior i had a rear case leak.i was not going to pull my engine 6 months prior just for that.

PATTEX,,or something similar will repir it.its a 2 part mix.exactly the same colour as the engine,water,oil and petrol proof.[if you go in this direction,ill walk you through it.

http://www.pattex.es/productos/producto.asp?id=67

is the one i use.you must have suitable products over there.

my 10c worth
 

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Bandit makes a good point, if it is a small leak. I have also used JB Weld on a minor leak at the rear case that has lasted years now. As stated, if all other matters are okay, you could get by that way. If the OP gave us more details about the bike it would really help. Like mileage of the bike etc.
 

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I guess the question is where is it really.

David suggested something like cleaning the area completely and throwing flour or a similar powder on the engine and run the engine till the leak starts. Then you should have it pinpointed pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I will do that.. So far with a clean underside of the area (Seam between the back cover and motor) if i pour oil into the engine, i get a drip. Enough of a drip that it requires a catch pan and it will be almost out of oil in 24 hours.
 

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I will do that.. So far with a clean underside of the area (Seam between the back cover and motor) if i pour oil into the engine, i get a drip. Enough of a drip that it requires a catch pan and it will be almost out of oil in 24 hours.
whooooo.that is new information.forget all the above posts,well mine anyway.to loose all your oil in 24 hours is not a drip.
its a hole
 

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whooooo.that is new information.forget all the above posts,well mine anyway.to loose all your oil in 24 hours is not a drip.
its a hole
having said that.pattex would still work....its amazing stuff.........

yesterday it pluged a 1/4 inch hole in a genny carb float bowl....pefect




shep,ill put some in the post to you,so you can try it
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well it sounds like a trip to the Honda dealer is in my future. I have the original tech manual which details the engine removal. Seems pretty straight forward. I may use some jack stands and a floor jack to make life simpler. Unless these is a better way? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
While i have the motor out (keeping in mind it has 31,000 is VERY clean on the outside as well as under the valve covers) what else should i replace? Nothing since it works or would things like a water pump ect be worth while since i will already be back there?
 

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having said that.pattex would still work....its amazing stuff.........

yesterday it pluged a 1/4 inch hole in a genny carb float bowl....pefect




shep,ill put some in the post to you,so you can try it


Please do
 

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