Honda CX 500 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my quest to get my bike running, I have cleaned the carbs as complete as I can using shep's method. I still don't know if htey are right but i thought they were. The bike wont hold a charge or start. when it did start, it missed from idle to about 3500-4500 rpms on the right side. Change cdi, coils rectifier/regulator, 2 sets of carbs, spark plugs, wires & boots,and still wont run. So I pulled the engine with only 23,000 miles on it for "triple bypass". Water pump seal was in great shape and cam chain tensioner were the latest style and also in like new condition. after pulling the stator I noticed 2 of the 'loops' were black and i couldn't see the wires under them. But it tested good in all of the resistance tests. The new/used stator i was puting in tested good and looked good until i got the engine back together. Now from one of the yellow wires to the engine case I get a reading of 1800-1900 ohm resistance ocasionally. My latest delima is if I should put in another stator, the one that fails the resistance test, use the one that passed all of the test and try to clean my idle circet in the carbs again. or load the bike into a missile and blast it to the moon.



Any thoughts? I think the one i took out was good but the 2 'loops' have me concerned. It only has 23,000 miles on it. Maybe if I post some pictures someone could help me decide?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,282 Posts
Let's start at the beginning. Do you have a spark when cranking with the plug being held against the engine case? On both sides? If so, there are only 3 other things that are required for an engine to at least try to run. They are fuel, compression, and the spark at the right time.



The timing cannot be adjusted enough to keep it from running unless you have removed the timing chain. So, lets not worry about it. Compression can easily be checked with you hand over a open spark plug hole. If you can feel a good air puff when cranking, at least there is some compression. Fuel can be eliminated by spraying a short burst of starting fluid into the air cleaner right before cranking. There should at least be some indication that the bike wants to run. At least for a second or two. Don't overdo the starting fluid, a half second burst is usually enough.



You also say the bike will not "hold" a charge. Could be bad battery. (most likely) Or it could be a parasitic draw when the ignition is off. This is easily checked with a multimeter between one of the batteries post and the unattached lead. You should not show any voltage or amperage with the ignition off. You should have noted at least 14.3 volts at the battery's terminals when the bike was running at about 2000 RPM.



The resistance checks on the stator are important. But I had a stator that checked out perfect on resistance, but the bike wouldn't charge. The sure test is to measure the voltage coming off the three yellow wires from the stator. If you are not getting upwards of 60 volts, the charging coils are not putting out.



I believe there are threads on the Quick Reference that address these areas. If you have not gone thru them, I would suggest that you do. There is a wealth of information available here, you just need to seek it out. Dave F. also has a web site with great electrical information on it. Try that resource too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
i think blue is of the same opinion.you have gone too far too quick.pulling a low milage engine for a no start or a rough low idle is way over the top.

start with the basics[as blue said].

new clean fuel

battery thats known to be good or a suitable car battery on jump leads.

clean air filter

known good plugs and a can of easy start or carb cleaner

can you get a spark....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have changed the battery and cleaned every contact I can fine and coating with electric grease. the plugs are brand new and so are the wires coils and the boots are in very good shape. Compression is 125 and 115. also i do get spark on both cylinders but it seams weak to me. but in used to car ignition systems to. On a second thought, the stator with the 2 black 'loops', Any thoughts on if this is normal? I cant test for voltage because I cant get it to start yet.



and a stator that fails the resistance test is definatly bad right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,999 Posts
Unplug the 3 yellow wires from the stator under the seat and then try starting the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
I have changed the battery and cleaned every contact I can fine and coating with electric grease. the plugs are brand new and so are the wires coils and the boots are in very good shape. Compression is 125 and 115. also i do get spark on both cylinders but it seams weak to me. but in used to car ignition systems to. On a second thought, the stator with the 2 black 'loops', Any thoughts on if this is normal? I cant test for voltage because I cant get it to start yet.



and a stator that fails the resistance test is definatly bad right?
aah,you have done a fair bit already.need to put that really in op.

do what Alan says with the stator plug.

just to clear up,where are you grounding the plugs,when you get a weak spark
 

·
Registered
1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
Joined
·
12,075 Posts
Verify that the coils are connected correctly. The yellow lead from the CDI should go to the left cylinder, the pink to the right, regardless of the wire color on the coil itself (they're really interchangeable.) If they're reversed, the timing will be off, and it won't start.



It's an easy miss.



R
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Verify that the coils are connected correctly. The yellow lead from the CDI should go to the left cylinder, the pink to the right, regardless of the wire color on the coil itself (they're really interchangeable.) If they're reversed, the timing will be off, and it won't start.



It's an easy miss.



R
i will check today. thanks for the thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
Verify that the coils are connected correctly. The yellow lead from the CDI should go to the left cylinder, the pink to the right, regardless of the wire color on the coil itself (they're really interchangeable.) If they're reversed, the timing will be off, and it won't start.



It's an easy miss.



R


thats interesting Randall.......so it is possible to have the timing way out on our bikes


how does that work with the wasted spark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
aah,you have done a fair bit already.need to put that really in op.

do what Alan says with the stator plug.

just to clear up,where are you grounding the plugs,when you get a weak spark
I will soon. i just dont want to put the engin back in until i get a stator i know is good. but i cant test voltage until it is on the bike. I really screwed up by jumping the gun on this one. I'm going to go out and try to install the engine so excuse me if i dont get back soon to tell what i found. I'm the only one here so this might take a while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
I will soon. i just dont want to put the engin back in until i get a stator i know is good. but i cant test voltage until it is on the bike. I really screwed up by jumping the gun on this one. I'm going to go out and try to install the engine so excuse me if i dont get back soon to tell what i found. I'm the only one here so this might take a while.
good luck mate,wish i was closer to give you a hand.

btw.i didnt mean to go back to the op and change it,dont worry, all the best,cant wait to see what you find
.
 

·
Registered
1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
Joined
·
12,075 Posts
thats interesting Randall.......so it is possible to have the timing way out on our bikes


how does that work with the wasted spark
These are 80 deg Vs, so no wasted spark, unless it happens at the end of the exhaust stroke (i.e. spark on each rotation.) Unlike a parallel twin, our pistons hit TDC 80 and 280 degrees apart. That's why we need separate coils.



R
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
These are 80 deg Vs, so no wasted spark, unless it happens at the end of the exhaust stroke (i.e. spark on each rotation.) Unlike a parallel twin, our pistons hit TDC 80 and 280 degrees apart. That's why we need separate coils.



R
thanks Randall,good explination.itl take me a while to get my [dim] head around it.

there is a wasted spark 180 degrees after the good one...nah.its getting late.

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,999 Posts
I have changed the battery and cleaned every contact I can fine and coating with electric grease. the plugs are brand new and so are the wires coils and the boots are in very good shape. Compression is 125 and 115. also i do get spark on both cylinders but it seams weak to me. but in used to car ignition systems to. On a second thought, the stator with the 2 black 'loops', Any thoughts on if this is normal? I cant test for voltage because I cant get it to start yet.



and a stator that fails the resistance test is definatly bad right?


I am sorry, I thought you had the engine back in the bike,,




Yes a stator that fails the resistance readings is most likely not good, it would depend on what readings were out and on what wires, some readings may be slightly off and still work but if you are reading continuity to ground on the yellow wires, the stator is bad.

I am afraid I may be too late answering that question if you are installing your engine with a stator that is reading continuity to ground on the yellow wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts


origional post....in this case

could be origional poster in another situation.


sorry buddy,gotta ask again

where did you ground the plugs when got your weak spark.

im not being an ass,just need to illiminate
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sorry buddy,gotta ask again

where did you ground the plugs when got your weak spark.

im not being an ass,just need to illiminate


i used a auto tool with an adjustable gap. the ground went to the neg bat post.

dont know how much voltage it maxed at but it was about half of what my jeep puts out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
i used a auto tool with an adjustable gap. the ground went to the neg bat post.

dont know how much voltage it maxed at but it was about half of what my jeep puts out.
ok bud,your very well switched on.....went to the battery post.ill bat out of this thread.good luck
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top