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CX500 Z 1978 , Rickman Polaris fairing, currently GL500 front, Ignitech etc. subject to change
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Even without the engine in place the frame is still fairly strong and will not really give way if you over tighten the pivot bolt. What will give way instead is the "cup" shaped part of the swingarm where the universal joint goes. It will be more or less crushed into an oval shape. I've once seen a sorry example made by somebody thinking that such a big (pivot) bolt must be so big for a reason so used a nice big wrench and kept going. Scratch one swingarm.......

(confession : I don't have the special tool, torqued one to the spec a few times to get a feel for what Honda wanted. If I now need to mount a swingarm I aim for something like that torque, checking that play in the bearings just disappears and movement is smooth. It may take several tries, time and patience but works for me and hopelfully allows for the usual corrosion and thread damage getting the b****y thing out in the first place. Haven't lost a swingarm yet :rolleyes: )
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I think what we're talking about is the bolt that goes through the lugs on either side of the frame for the upper engine mount and that would also prevent the frame from spreading at that point. Tightening the swingarm bolt to spec without that engine mount bolt to keep the frame from spreading might push the sides of the frame apart.
Maybe.
And if it did it could be enough to make the swingarm too tight when the engine is bolted in.
Maybe.
It might be worth considering and it wouldn't hurt to check that the swingarm still moves as it should once the engine mount bolt is in place.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", '83 GL650, '82 GL500 Project "AdventureWing", '79 CX500C, '78 CX500 Scrambler
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10,223 Posts
BTW: Even when I hold the screwdriver in the adjusting screw while I tighten the lock nut I still check the valve clearance afterward.
That's my point. You can't check the final clearance at the swingarm pivot.
You're correct that a lot of people won't invest in the proper tool, but I doubt a lot of people ever remove their swingarm, either.
 

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I adjust the play in the swingarm with the motor in, rear shocks and final drive unit removed.

At this point play and binding can be felt without the weight of a fitted final drive..

This would be easier with the twin shock bikes I work on as shock removal is not so simple with prolink.

But I've been looking at the tool shown here and will likely make something similar for that odd euro..
 
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