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1978 CX500 "The Grub", '83 GL650, '82 GL500 Project "AdventureWing", '79 CX500C, '78 CX500 Scrambler
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You could of course just apply a torque conversion factor if needed...
More important than the offset of the tool is holding the pivot bolt while tightening the lock nut. The torque value on the pivot is very low. The torque on the locknut is very high. Unless it's held in place, the pivot WILL turn when the locknut is tightened.
 

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yes..(happened to me on a BM where the preload bolt was some kinda soft alloy...some rethreading required as well as a steel replacement fixed it :().but the kits listed by Murray have short allen key bits to use to prevent that......
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", '83 GL650, '82 GL500 Project "AdventureWing", '79 CX500C, '78 CX500 Scrambler
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the kits listed by Murray have short allen key bits to use to prevent that......
The tool listed by Murray has the offset. No calculation needed.
Using a modified socket and adjusting for the arm length will still result in incorrect tension on the pivot bolt because it can't be held while torquing the locknut.
 

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yes
The tool listed by Murray has the offset. No calculation needed.
Using a modified socket and adjusting for the arm length will still result in incorrect tension on the pivot bolt because it can't be held while torquing the locknut.
If you look at my post at #14 thats what I have suggested...the appropriate tool....other members suggested their own techniques e.g. post #7..

My subsequent posts clearly stated that other techniques...were second best.
They could however minimize potential harm.
When quoting "credence of the posting" will only be served with an entire quote.. context is undeniably important....
 

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Lifes too short to take offence bout anything....we all here to enjoy 2 wheels...maybe given many of us are "mature" we might be entering the "grumpy old men realm...":p

 

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Just because I'm naturally offensive doesn't mean I mean offence. It's a hobby, not a vocation.

I don't know about grumpy old men.

I just like to kick the black dog around.
 

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Appreciate the banter....cheers...might be time to return to original post............or we may digress++ (farther than thus far)
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Doesn't the book
More important than the offset of the tool is holding the pivot bolt while tightening the lock nut. The torque value on the pivot is very low. The torque on the locknut is very high. Unless it's held in place, the pivot WILL turn when the locknut is tightened.
I didn't have any problem with that. I figure that when you do up a lock nut it pulls the bolt outward a bit and that more or less compensates for turning it inward at the same time with a thread that fine.
I should have mentioned to check that the swingarm's movement feels the same after the nut is torqued in case it moves farther than acceptable.

Re applying the correct torque to the nut, I have attached part of the page from the GL500/650 FSM below. It specifies the actual torque as well as the torque wrench reading when you use the special tool. If you use the actual value the nut will be tightened correctly.
BTW: The book for the GL1100 not only gives both numbers but also specifies to "use a deflecting beam type torque wrench 14 to 20 inches long".
Considering how long these bearings are likely to last and that few of us are likely to need to do this very often I'm happy with the compromise of doing it the way I described.
207760
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", '83 GL650, '82 GL500 Project "AdventureWing", '79 CX500C, '78 CX500 Scrambler
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Ever torqued the locknut on a tappet, Bob? (Rhetorical question) They can go either way. Unlike the tappet, there's no way to measure the result at the swing arm pivot.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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True, but I doubt many people are going to invest in the original type tool plus a beam torque wrench for something they may only need to do a couple of times. As I said, I've done it several times and it has worked for me. Others can decide for themselves.

BTW: Even when I hold the screwdriver in the adjusting screw while I tighten the lock nut I still check the valve clearance afterward.
 

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I'd like to add a suggestion here that's not been mentioned. If you install the pivot bolt without the motor installed and bolted in place, as in post #17, over tightening the pivot bolt WILL spread the frame apart. Then when you install the motor and tighten the bolts, you have effectively over tightened the pivot to the swing arm by pulling the frame to the motor. Install the motor BEFORE you set the swing arm torque.
 

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1981 GL500, 1984 Yamaha Maxim 400 DOHC
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I'd like to add a suggestion here that's not been mentioned. If you install the pivot bolt without the motor installed and bolted in place, as in post #17, over tightening the pivot bolt WILL spread the frame apart. Then when you install the motor and tighten the bolts, you have effectively over tightened the pivot to the swing arm by pulling the frame to the motor. Install the motor BEFORE you set the swing arm torque.
Oh my, hadn't thought about that! Ok, just last night I torqued it for the second time, what I would assume, correctly, but will check one more time once engine is on (engine apart and awaiting parts in order to assemble and install). I think in the future, I'll follow the "If it ain't broke don't take it apart/fix it" mantra which I've seen multiple people on this forum, or some other forum, follow. What great advice all around, a big thanks to all you knowledgeable, and generous, gurus!
 
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