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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

New cx owner here and I am working on rebuilding my engine. As some background, I have gotten at least 300 miles on the bike with no issues, I am now in the middle of an engine rebuild. Opened up the engine to take a look and learn a bit about the bike, replace some gaskets, and make sure everything looks good. Low and behold it looks like my timing chain tensioner locking bolt was loose and caused the timing chain to slap into the crank case. Visually my chain looks like it is in good condition and the tensioner still has travel as shown below, but I would love some advice on its condition/need for replacement. I removed the guides and they are in good shape.

Based on the pictures below is it worth replacing this part of the case?
Other than inspecting the oil pump for metal shavings, is there anything else I need to do before putting her back together?
Auto part Motor vehicle Engine Automotive engine part Carburetor


Auto part Suspension Bicycle part
 

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Ignore the chewed metal, most are like that and it does no harm {aside from the swarf already made}

It's a bit hard to tell in the angle of your photo, but it looks like there isn't much adjustment left. I'd replace the chain while I was there.

Why was the tensioner bolt loose? Have you test torqued it to make sure nothing is stripped?

Is the spacer inside the tensioner arm?
 

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Welcome to the forum!! Did you install a new oil and water pump seal while you have it apart? I did when I had mine apart. I thought it best, since the engine was out. I know that you printed that you were doing a rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Phreak,

Thanks for the tips! I think I will look into a new chain. Good question on the bolt torque, I will test it out. I do have the spacer, might be hard to see in the picture.
 

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On this issue.... can one hear the chain having an issue when the bike is idling? How much can one see during inspection when using a small mirror via the side of the engine?
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year (NOT year first registered) to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature) so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership. Your bike has had about 40 years of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) start shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).
 

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With regular adjustments and oil changes I think yes, it can reach 60 thousand k.

Was it one owner? It may also have already had some chain replacements.

I'd do a mirror inspection to ascertain how much adjustment you have left.
Will do! Question now is where do the metal flakes I see in the drained oil come from??
 

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Will do! Question now is where do the metal flakes I see in the drained oil come from??
The metal shavings (hopefully silver colored, not copper colored) come from the chain lashing the crankcase, which you see evident in your pics. If copper colored flakes are present, it's possible from the bottom end bearings, not fun.
 
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