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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mine has finally given it up. the connector on the bottom is done, and i'm tired of fiddlin' with it to get the bike running(and not being able to run at night, since you know, loss of lights and whatnot).



What's compatible and cheap? The original part (35010-449-305) seems to have been discontinued, or there's few new ones out there and they cost a ton. I was certianly hoping there was another(*cough*cheaper*cough*ebay*cough*) lockset out there, maybe from the GL line?
 

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I have several extra switches here with no keys. If you want to send it to me I'll rebuild yours for you. I even have a new plastic cover for it. This way I can put it on my bike and be sure everything works before I send it back.

PM me if your interested and we'll get the details worked out.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
While i appreciate it, i would much rather just get a new one with new keys. My tumbler was never good, either, and didn't even go into park. I'm just looking to grab one ASAP where i can, since we don't have a lot of riding season left out here, either.



I just keep looking at the two old GL versions(77-79 79-81 i think)and they both look similar to ours. And they're insanely cheap. So i was thinking about grabbing one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, seems this isn't as easy as thought, eh? On another note, what's the best way to temporarily "hotwire" the bike with the ignition switch removed from the motorcycle? I'd hate to see it sit there, and if some bridging gets me on the road for short trips, i'd be trilled.
 

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Mine has finally given it up. the connector on the bottom is done, and i'm tired of fiddlin' with it to get the bike running(and not being able to run at night, since you know, loss of lights and whatnot).



What's compatible and cheap? The original part (35010-449-305) seems to have been discontinued, or there's few new ones out there and they cost a ton. I was certianly hoping there was another(*cough*cheaper*cough*ebay*cough*) lockset out there, maybe from the GL line?


There's a brand new one at our local locksmith but I'm not sure which model it fits. You might call him for the part #.



It's been on his pegboard for eons, has it marked at $50 or so but would probably entertain offers:



Roger's Safe & Lock

906 NW 5th St

Oklahoma City, OK 73106-7427

(405) 232-6297
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
While i am intrigued by this setup, and it would probably work, the 78s only have two fuses up there, both for the lights. I'm curious, the fuse that's clamped, wouldn't the wire that goes to that lead likely lead back to the harness connector to the ignition switch, and this is how it's bypassed? If that's the case, i wonder which wire it would be on the 78's plug. The idea being you could make a temporary switch using the same wiring method, but instead of an alligator clamp, you would spade the setup into the wiring harness to bypass? I'm pretty bad at explaining what i mean, but if that makes sense to anyone, it would be appreciated...
 

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EMGO sells a lot of Honda ignition switches. Exact looking replacemants. Just make sure you get the CX500 model.

Cheers, 50gary
 

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While i am intrigued by this setup, and it would probably work, the 78s only have two fuses up there, both for the lights. I'm curious, the fuse that's clamped, wouldn't the wire that goes to that lead likely lead back to the harness connector to the ignition switch, and this is how it's bypassed? If that's the case, i wonder which wire it would be on the 78's plug. The idea being you could make a temporary switch using the same wiring method, but instead of an alligator clamp, you would spade the setup into the wiring harness to bypass? I'm pretty bad at explaining what i mean, but if that makes sense to anyone, it would be appreciated...
sorry m8,im not good enough to explain,perhaps dave,reg or someone will chip in
 

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I got your switch today. I ended up having to pull the chrome cover off too because the spring inside had broken and collapsed. I changed the center section too because it was all bent up from someone using a screw driver. Basically it's a whole new switch except the housing and the key. You should try to get a new key cut because yours is worn out and won't stay in the switch when it's on. The code is on the side of the switch.



Anyway, it's on it's way to you already. And yes, I tested it on my bike. It works just like it's supposed to.



Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know i've said it probably too many times now, but thank you so much Larry. I really didn't think it was in THAT bad of shape, but i'm no locksmith(for all i know, there's some magical voodoo going on inside those switches).



Can't wait till it gets back, it's been a long... 3 days?.... of not riding
 

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Again, you are welcome. Hope you get it by Monday so you can go ride again.

Let me know when it gets there.
 
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