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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

I am currently in the process of restoring my bike, and therefore I am considering a full engine restore.
Everything on the bike works properly, but in 5th gear on high rpms the engine stutters (which I think is the carbs?).

So is it necessary or meaninful to tear the whole engine apart and replace bolts, gaskets and seals or should I wait until problems occur?
I am getting an Ignitech, but this shouldn't have anything to do with a full engine restore(?).

Please have in mind that I am a total newbie :)

/Steffen
 

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Find the problem before planning an engine restoration!

Is it the '82? CDI or TI? Many '82s around the world are TI, but not everywhere/always.

https://motofaction.org/motorcycles...ferences-which-which-cx500-gl500-cx650-gl650/

When were the carbs last cleaned? There's plenty of other relatively easy things to check like plugs, plug caps, pulse generators for TI etc. to give you a better picture of what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's the CDI model, that is why I am changing to an Ignitech as I want to have the m-unit blue in the bike.
Furthermore I am planning on getting murrays carbs - so I am not bothered to work on my current carbs.

What about the dental mirror cam chain method? Would that be a good idea to look into or just wait until I notice any problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How much kilometers did the engine run ?

High revs much over 5.500-600 revs ?

In any case make at first a stator test, and do the dental mirror test.
No idea, there is no speedometer or tachometer on the bike but I was overtaking a lot of cars so I would say I was going about 120+ km/h.
 

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Cam chain is one of the more common issues on these bikes so inspecting it with the dental mirror wouldn't hurt and preventative measures are best when dealing with the cam chain. If you wait until problems occur with it you end up replacing more than the chain.. DO NOT DROP THE MIRROR!! A guy on the forum is dealing with that now and has to pull the engine. I inspected my first bike with the mirror and posted pics of the reflections on here for assistance. My chain was at the end of adjustment so I went ahead and replaced.
 

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Does a non functioning tach mean you don't have a temp gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Can be near to 6.000 revs or a little more.

Time to do the stator test.
Will do but apparently getting the engine off the frame isn't as easy as I expected.
I have this bolt which wont come of, so I tried to drill a hole and put in a bolt extractor but because of the bolt being THAT rusty the extractor simply broke....
20170811_171900.jpg
Any advices on how to get the bolt out now? I don't think I can drill in the extractor, at least it didn't seemed so when I tried.

Does a non functioning tach mean you don't have a temp gauge?
Yup, no gauges no tacho no speedo no nothing. That is why I want to restore the bike and get all of them :)
 

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Will do but apparently getting the engine off the frame isn't as easy as I expected.
I have this bolt which wont come of, so I tried to drill a hole and put in a bolt extractor but because of the bolt being THAT rusty the extractor simply broke....
View attachment 119874
Any advices on how to get the bolt out now? I don't think I can drill in the extractor, at least it didn't seemed so when I tried.



Yup, no gauges no tacho no speedo no nothing. That is why I want to restore the bike and get all of them :)
For that location (same on other side) I would just drill it out. Starting with small diameter drill and step up to slightly larger each time until you reach actual bolt diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Start w the best penetrating fluid you can find. I like Pb Blaster. You may be able to make a slot w a dremel tool and use a huge slotted screw driver to remove? Good luck.
Tried this, and nothing works. No idea how I am going to get further in this process...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
For that location (same on other side) I would just drill it out. Starting with small diameter drill and step up to slightly larger each time until you reach actual bolt diameter.
As there is a broken bolt extractor filling the hole now, it is impossible to drill through this.. Already broke two bores
 

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That make's it much more complicated. try drilling a couple of small holes adjacent to and around extractor point and pry it out from the side
 

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I would use a torch and a lot of heat.
Then take a 8 or 10mm rod and hammer that bolt out.
It may or will surely happen that on the backside of the rear cover a part of the holder (to avoid the turning of the nut) will break.
DAMHIK
Motorbolzen.jpg

The diameter of the bore in the frame is ~~ 10.5 mm, the outer diameter of the bolt was increasd to much more of 10.5mm ...... by rust.
 

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Perhaps may be easier to just cut the bolt.
With the Carbs, Fuel tank, starter motor and seat removed you may be able to use a hacksaw or Sawzall to cut through the gap between the frame and engine mount and just cut through the bolt shank.

cutx.jpg
 
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