[Wolfprint15]

So i did an over hall of the carbs and the rest of the bike, it has new boots and good boots on the air box, tested for leaks, but get this the throttle screw isnt touching the throttle plate and the bike is still running? Any tips or sugestions on what to do, the bike is idiling at 3000 rpms but cannt fix it because the throttle scre issnt doing anything, one mechanic sugested there was dirt in the carb causing the throttle to be stuck open but we took it apart and cleaned it and its still doing this.

 

[murrayf]

are you sure both carbs are linked back to gether properly and the throttle plates at the same place or do you have the

sync spring and washers in wrong

do you have slack in the throttle cable? or is it out of adjustment or a lock nut out of place

 

[Sidecar Bob]

Yeah, no slack in the cable was my first thought too.

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).