[cxjer]

Hello, I haven't updated my sig since the update so let me give you my details before i give you my problem. I own a 1980 CX500 Deluxe, completely stock with about 8,900 miles.



So anyways, It's pretty much my daily driver but tonight i gave ol' sally a good run around 5-6 towns (In texas you're lookin at an all day ride passing through city to city). Anyways i was on my way home takin' it easy, all systems looked good, she wasn't overheating or anything.



I came to a red light and started to ease off the throttle, it turned green again before i came to a stop so i just started to ease back into the throttle...when i felt the throttle "let go" so to speak, causing me decelerate and return to idle. I'm thinkin something must've happened to the linkage or something. Nothing flew off the bike and everything else seems fine and she still shifts and everything, but the throttle doesn't rev when you twist it, it sort of just freely turns nows (only to a certain point it doesn't spin all the way around). No rev no nothin'. That being said thank God i was close to home cause i just popped her into first and rode home at around 5ish MPH.



She's sitting in my garage as i type this, i'm hoping it's an easy fix otherwise i wouldn't be getting any sleep tonight, i just wanted to see what you guys think the problem might be (before i open 'er up tomorrow morning) and where i should start..

 

[Phil in Vermont]

Hello, I haven't updated my sig since the update so let me give you my details before i give you my problem. I own a 1980 CX500 Deluxe, completely stock with about 8,900 miles.



So anyways, It's pretty much my daily driver but tonight i gave ol' sally a good run around 5-6 towns (In texas you're lookin at an all day ride passing through city to city). Anyways i was on my way home takin' it easy, all systems looked good, she wasn't overheating or anything.



I came to a red light and started to ease off the throttle, it turned green again before i came to a stop so i just started to ease back into the throttle...when i felt the throttle "let go" so to speak, causing me decelerate and return to idle. I'm thinkin something must've happened to the linkage or something. Nothing flew off the bike and everything else seems fine and she still shifts and everything, but the throttle doesn't rev when you twist it, it sort of just freely turns nows (only to a certain point it doesn't spin all the way around). No rev no nothin'. That being said thank God i was close to home cause i just popped her into first and rode home at around 5ish MPH.



She's sitting in my garage as i type this, i'm hoping it's an easy fix otherwise i wouldn't be getting any sleep tonight, i just wanted to see what you guys think the problem might be (before i open 'er up tomorrow morning) and where i should start..

Your cable either became disconnected or broke. remove the grip and the kill/starter switch body from the bar. Pull on the cable ends, I'll bet one will pull out of the sheath to expose the break.

 

[Shep]

Check the lock nut at the A pull cable Carburettor end.

 

[rickbert]

I'm gonna bet that the throttle cable BROKE.....



As Shep said check the lock nut that holds the cable to the carbs but typically if that comes loose you're still gonna be able to rev the bike but the throttle won't snap back properly.

 

[saltwatersurf]

I had both my throttle cables break this summer. I'd say it's that or the lock nut like Shep said.

 

[lucky]

i also say throttle cable i had that happen to me when i was going down the highway at 80mph.......i was passing a semi and then it just snapped which sucked sense i was around 10 miles from my house......... if it does turn out to be the cables make a post on the selling and buying forum and some one might just have one a set that they dont need all you need is just one cable anyway thats all i run with and i have had no problems with it best of luck on it my friend

 

[cxjer]

well, looks like it was the cable that broke, i checked where the cable connects to the carb and pulled on one of them and it slid right out revealing a very frayed throttle cable. Next step was trying to remove the kill/starter assembly which is a million times harder cause one screw is stripped and the other seems to be seized...anyways i'm assuming both of them (unless its one cable?) are broken since the grip moves freely.



don't know how i'm going to fix the old girl...it sucks knowing what the problem is and being stopped dead in your tracks because of a couple of screws. :\

 

[Blue Fox]

You may have to drill off those screw heads. I have had to do that a couple of times. At least there is room to get a drill lined up on them. I'm not sure of the bit size, probably about 3/16th, should separate the head from the body without any other harm. Then soak the stuck end with PB Blaster and use a Vise Grip to start wiggling the screw back and forth. Don't try to just back it out, you may break it off. Come to think about it, you may not be able to remove the top cover with the screws in the bottom. You may have to hacksaw thru the screw at the seam after you get the head off. Just allow yourself enough purchase to get a Vise Grip on the remaining part.

 

[Reg in Bristol]

Sheps lock nut scenario happened to me

Pity its not that simple for you

Those screws are often a bugger to get out and

once you do, stainless cap screws are an option here

I grabbed some off a scrapped bike and no longer have these struggles



If you drill the heads off WEAR EYE PROTECTION !!

It would be very easy to get swarf in your eye as you're

kneeling under the bars to drill the heads off

 

[Blue Fox]

Good point on the eye protection, Reg. I was drilling out a exhaust manifold stud a few years back, laying under a motor home. A sliver of hot swarf got by my safety glasses and burnt into my eyeball. It went in far enough that I couldn't feel it with the eyelid. About a week later, I noticed the eye watering and went to the eye doctor. After chiding me for waiting so long, he said that it had now rusted in there and couldn't be pulled with a magnet. He proceed to numb (or so he said), the eye and used what I think was a tire iron to dig the rust out. I would rather change a dozen tires than go thru that again.

 

[Reg in Bristol]

Yep BF, I had a similar injury a few years back.

Having someone poking about in your eye is a hugely unpleasant experience

(shudders)

 

[cxjer]

Dang BF, good lookin' out...i'll be sure to make note of that when drillin' that sucker outta there.



Last question, i'll be replacing both, but if you're sitting on the bike, which cables would be A and B?



Sorry if thats a dumb question...haha the cx is my first bike and all.

 

[Shep]

The A cable is the,"Pull" cable and has two nuts on it at the carb end.The B cable is the,"Push" cable and only has one lock-nut.



The A cable has the adjuster on it near the throttle housing,the B cable doesn't.With the throttle assembly open the A cable goes into the slot so that when you rotate the throttle it,"Pulls".



Also get the correct cable routing(Important),

 

[IanSmith]

Sounds like many of us have struggled with these scew at one time or another.



My tip is to try to turn the whole housing (on my cx500c, I used the mirror stems to get some leverage). As you cable is broke the housing should turn without getting tangled by the cables.



This way the screw are on top and much easier to push down with a screw driver or drill.

 

[cxjer]

So after hours of messing around with those screws in the sweltering heat, not budging them one tiny bit, my Pops comes by and in 2 seconds and a few chuckles, removes em'...with a screwdriver.



So that being said, i put in the order for a new Pull cable at the local shop 2 days ago, its was about 18 for 1 of em, i plan on getting the B cable when i got the extra fundage.



Anyways, i was wondering how i'd go about installing the new one? Couldn't find it flippin through the clymer, (i got a scanned one on the computer thats a bit tough to read) I'm assuming i'd have to pull the carb to gain better access to the throttle? I'm not to clear on how the housing is attached on there (i had reached my hand in there and pulled the cable out when it had snapped so the housing is still connected)



Thanks in advance! I seriously don't know where i'd be without this site, i still find myself reading through the cached posts on choppercharles!

 

[bandit]

So after hours of messing around with those screws in the sweltering heat, not budging them one tiny bit, my Pops comes by and in 2 seconds and a few chuckles, removes em'...with a screwdriver.



So that being said, i put in the order for a new Pull cable at the local shop 2 days ago, its was about 18 for 1 of em, i plan on getting the B cable when i got the extra fundage.



Anyways, i was wondering how i'd go about installing the new one? Couldn't find it flippin through the clymer, (i got a scanned one on the computer thats a bit tough to read) I'm assuming i'd have to pull the carb to gain better access to the throttle? I'm not to clear on how the housing is attached on there (i had reached my hand in there and pulled the cable out when it had snapped so the housing is still connected)



Thanks in advance! I seriously don't know where i'd be without this site, i still find myself reading through the cached posts on choppercharles!

if it were me,id take the tank off and away.disconnect at the carb first,then the grip,route the new cable as per the old one[if you were happy on its routing before].

connect at the grip,then at the carb.

if there is not enough room to work,you might even have to pull the carbs out the left hand side a bit

 

[WisconsinCX]

So after hours of messing around with those screws in the sweltering heat, not budging them one tiny bit, my Pops comes by and in 2 seconds and a few chuckles, removes em'...with a screwdriver.



So that being said, i put in the order for a new Pull cable at the local shop 2 days ago, its was about 18 for 1 of em, i plan on getting the B cable when i got the extra fundage.



Anyways, i was wondering how i'd go about installing the new one? Couldn't find it flippin through the clymer, (i got a scanned one on the computer thats a bit tough to read) I'm assuming i'd have to pull the carb to gain better access to the throttle? I'm not to clear on how the housing is attached on there (i had reached my hand in there and pulled the cable out when it had snapped so the housing is still connected)



Thanks in advance! I seriously don't know where i'd be without this site, i still find myself reading through the cached posts on choppercharles!

I'd ask "Pops" to do it!

 

[cxjer]

So after waiting a ridiculous amount of time for my part to come in. I was able to pick it up this morning and install it just about an hour ago. Took it for a ride and she actually seems to be running a lot smoother than before. Didn't have to disconnect the carbs just had to take off that spring housing to reach my socket wrench in there. The rest was pretty straightforward but had to do some tricky movements to get just enough room to get the locknuts in place. My B cable seemed a like its about ready to go but i just about expected that since the A cable went out.



Got a few post install questions. Do i need to lubricate the new throttle cable? I have no bindings and she snaps back beautifully at all angles. I read online that new cables don't need to be lubed up as the manufacturer ships them with silicon based lube already lining the housing, or is that a load of malarky?



And just so i'm prepared for the future (i'm going to get the B cable just can't afford it right now) When that b cable does snap i'm assuming you can't force the throttle to close right? Am i to use the kill switch or just slow down considerably early (assuming that the spring in the carb will help to decelarate the engine?)

 

[rickbert]

Actually I've read here where it will snap back even without the B cable...I've read also where some folks don't even replace it...the tension on the A cable usually is enough.....however if the A cable does not snap back on it's own you should be able to do it manually by just rolling back on the throttle yourself.

 

[lucky]

to be blunt there is no need for the b cable as long as the main spring on the carb is good the throttle will snap back i only run one cable and its just fine so save your money