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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Troubleshooting what to do-- the Suzuki cables I had are too short and I cant turn the handle bars fully left. These other cables are long but I can't see a way to fasten them securely
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1983 Honda CX650C with Murray's Carbs and stock exhaust for now
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When you say that you don't see a way to fasten them, what is the hangup? do they not screw in or is it the angle they force the cable into?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When you say that you don't see a way to fasten them, what is the hangup? do they not screw in or is it the angle they force the cable into?
They ( the longer cables ) don't screw in.
I am guessing they were meant for a different throttle control. I am trying to think of the best way to solve this. I could 1) customize the cables by swapping the old fittings onto the new one 2) find extended Suzuki cables 3) find a new throttle control that will fit the cables
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Your cables are approaching the right- hand control from the wrong direction entirely. Routing should be from the carbs, up the left side of the frame spine, and around the front of the steering head to the right-hand control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Your cables are approaching the right- hand control from the wrong direction entirely. Routing should be from the carbs, up the left side of the frame spine, and around the front of the steering head to the right-hand control.
The photo is to just show that the ends of the cable can't screw / get secured to the controls. This is the issue I need to solve. I understand the way to route the cable.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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1) Get rid of the so-called "push" cable. They are supposed to be there so you can close the throttle if the throttle return spring breaks. In a couple of decades on this forum and it's predecessors I've never heard of that happening but I've heard of lots of cases where that cable became rusted or gummed and prevented the throttle from opening or closing.

2) Your switch assembly looks a lot like the Indian Enfield ones I installed on my bikes some years ago (except that the headlight switch is blanked out on yours). I ran an M10-1.25 tap into the hole in the housing so that the cable could thread in and also had to add a stop for the throttle sleeve inside the housing (mine didn't have the holes for the 2nd cables but if they had I would have plugged them).

BTW: If your switches are indeed similar to mine you will find that they are missing a couple of functions:
The turn signal switch doesn't have the contacts to turn off the running lights that are integral with the signals when they are flashing. It is a legal requirement that there must be 4"/100mm between the turn signals and any other light that is on when the signals are operating so you can't just leave the running lights on all the time and they do make you more noticeable to other road users at night so leaving them off all the time isn't a great idea either. In my case I already had separate running lights and signals so it didn't matter.
The Start button does not have the contacts to turn off the headlight while the starter is operating (so that all of the battery's power is available to the starter motor). Since mine have headlight switches I just got back into the habit of turning the headlight off when I park and turning it back on after the engine is started.

I didn't post a full report on what I did here because the process was almost identical to installing the same controls on my GoldWing (the actual modifications start in post #11) About the only thing I would do differently if I was doing it again would be taking pictures to explain each step
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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It is a legal requirement that there must be 4"/100mm between the turn signals and any other light that is on when the signals are operating
I don't think that's true, Bob. I see an awful lot of late model cars with factory turn signals right next to the headlamps. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, but your opinion isn't a legal requirement.
Also, I think your campaign against the B throttle cable puts you in moral jeopardy if someone experiences the failure you claim will never happen.
"It's never happened before..." is a rational fallacy that kills. "I haven't crashed racing through the canyons, so I must be a great rider. Those blind turns on two-lane roads are nothing I can't handle."
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I believe the 100mm separation is somewhere in FMVSS 108, which now also includes requirements about relative brightness of lights less than 100mm from the signal.

As for the throttle return cable, it is ultimately up to you whether you keep them on your bikes but I feel safer without them. A gummed or rusted one could prevent the throttle return spring from closing the throttle.
 
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