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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since doing my valves, and I think for a little bit before then, I've been having very odd issues on my low end. Bike idles rough sometimes, but starts right up other times. It almost refuses to idle when I have the clutch pulled in, and it does creep slightly...and adjusting the play has never gotten rid of this. My gas mileage has been kinda crappy lately, and it just feels generally odd in the low range.



Just yesterday I took it on a 70 mile jaunt to a doctor's appointment (my insurance SUCKS) and at around mile 50 I pulled in to get some gas. Bike seemed to be running fine and I was cruising at at least 70 MPH the whole time. Filled 'er up, and it wouldn't idle when I had the clutch pulled in. I had to keep giving it gas as I pulled out of the gas station, cursing myself for not staying there to try and diagnose the problem...but I was going to be late to my appointment. Once I pulled up to the light, not even half a block away, it was idling just fine. It only took me five minutes to fill up, so I know that the engine didn't cool down that fast.



I get crunching and lurching when playing with the clutch at low speeds, which I've never had before as well. I also would hear a thunking noise "sometimes" with the clutch let out and the bike in neutral...when pulled in it'd go away.



Now I know that this means I'm going to have to dive into my clutch...and if I do that, I don't want to have to learn that I'm going to need a rebuild kit and then fill the bike up with oil again, then drain it again 100 miles later to rebuild.



So before blowing the cash on a clutch kit, I ask: what else could it be? I think that I've ruled out adjustments, but maybe I've done them wrong. I've tinkered with pilot screws but they seem to be spot on where they are. I have yet to clean the carbs this year...last time they were cleaned was last year when I first got the bike and knew NOTHING about CX's. Including the whole slow jet thing. So I think I want to try the easy stuff before I buy the clutch kit just in case I get lucky.



Oh, and I do think I get "slippage" but being a 'young man' I honestly don't know what slippage truly is. I've had it where sometimes the engine will rev up and not grab at all, then all of a sudden the gear will grab...and I've also had it to where I'd let the clutch out but it'd feel like it was still in for about half a second. I thought that the latter was normal (I knew that the former wasn't) as I've always felt it when driving other vehicles that don't use manual transmissions....so maybe it's been bad for a long time and I just never knew!
 

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I certainly don't profess to be a clutch expert, but I don't think your problems are related to the clutch at all. The clutch does nothing more than couple and decouple the crankshaft to the transmission. There are a series of disks and plates that are held in contact with each other for coupling, and released from each other for stopping. The usual indication of a worn out clutch is that you will experience a engine speed increase out of proportion to bike speed increase in the higher gears. So, the engine revs high, but the bike doesn't go in fifth gear.



There are adjustments that are needed for all this to work properly, but mainly just to have a little play in the cable when the clutch is not pulled. That allows the springs in the clutch to fully compress the disks and plates together for maximum friction. It is also possible to have some "clutch rattle" in the system. This is usually due to wear on the plate's engagement lugs and probably is not a item that needs immediate attention. The clutch will continue to work fine with a little rattle.



Bottom line is that I think you need to pull those carbs and do a deep cleaning. I would think that cleaning the carbs would be much easier for most folks than rebuilding the clutch basket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I certainly don't profess to be a clutch expert, but I don't think your problems are related to the clutch at all. The clutch does nothing more than couple and decouple the crankshaft to the transmission. There are a series of disks and plates that are held in contact with each other for coupling, and released from each other for stopping. The usual indication of a worn out clutch is that you will experience a engine speed increase out of proportion to bike speed increase in the higher gears. So, the engine revs high, but the bike doesn't go in fifth gear.



There are adjustments that are needed for all this to work properly, but mainly just to have a little play in the cable when the clutch is not pulled. That allows the springs in the clutch to fully compress the disks and plates together for maximum friction. It is also possible to have some "clutch rattle" in the system. This is usually due to wear on the plate's engagement lugs and probably is not a item that needs immediate attention. The clutch will continue to work fine with a little rattle.



Bottom line is that I think you need to pull those carbs and do a deep cleaning. I would think that cleaning the carbs would be much easier for most folks than rebuilding the clutch basket.


Well I am getting occasions where the engine revs up, and the gear takes a second to "catch" if you will. I'm not good with clutches at all, so sorry if I'm being vague. It feels like it isn't fully in gear for a few seconds, even though I'm certain that I've shifted it into that gear firmly. But this is only some of the time and not all of the time.



However, I will definitely hop into the carbs again and see what happens. I was always told that I ride my bike so often that the carbs should be clean just from the constant use! Guess that that isn't 100% true lol.









The carb boots on the engine side are only 4-6 months old. I bought them both brand new. Though I've never replaced the ones on the airbox side, and can't recall checking them lately. I'll pay special attention to those when checking for leaks...never thought of leaks just because I have new boots.
 

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Well I am getting occasions where the engine revs up, and the gear takes a second to "catch" if you will. I'm not good with clutches at all, so sorry if I'm being vague. It feels like it isn't fully in gear for a few seconds, even though I'm certain that I've shifted it into that gear firmly. But this is only some of the time and not all of the time.



However, I will definitely hop into the carbs again and see what happens. I was always told that I ride my bike so often that the carbs should be clean just from the constant use! Guess that that isn't 100% true lol.











The carb boots on the engine side are only 4-6 months old. I bought them both brand new. Though I've never replaced the ones on the airbox side, and can't recall checking them lately. I'll pay special attention to those when checking for leaks...never thought of leaks just because I have new boots.


It's not always the boots per say but getting them and the clamps correct an not malformed around the carbs.
 

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It's not always the boots per say but getting them and the clamps correct an not malformed around the carbs.
even with brand new boots,you still have a possible 6 joints of ingression
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Agh, my browser ate a post.



It's a good point about getting the boots on the carbs correctly, I always assumed that the CX was so nicely put together that that'd be hard to do. I'm used to having to have the bank of carbs in my CB lined up perfectly or else everything goes out of wack, but it's a bit more of a "messy" design.



As for oil, I used to use motorcycle specific 10w-40 up until a maybe two months ago (so that's nearly a year of using it) and just recently switched to Rotella 15w-40 after realizing how much money I was wasting on motorcycle specific oil.
 

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Agh, my browser ate a post.



It's a good point about getting the boots on the carbs correctly, I always assumed that the CX was so nicely put together that that'd be hard to do. I'm used to having to have the bank of carbs in my CB lined up perfectly or else everything goes out of wack, but it's a bit more of a "messy" design.



As for oil, I used to use motorcycle specific 10w-40 up until a maybe two months ago (so that's nearly a year of using it) and just recently switched to Rotella 15w-40 after realizing how much money I was wasting on motorcycle specific oil.
dont forget your behind
carbs to airbox.with the bike ticking over,spray carb cleaner around all 6 joints....any alteration in revs....bingo...airleak
 
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