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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Light Gear Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim


After months of procrastinating I finally dropped the motor off my 650c and got the rear case off.

This is my first bike and it was running pretty good after working out some kinks until suddenly getting a tapping/metallic slapping noise at low RPMs. After some viewing posts here and deduction I decided it had to be the cam chain.

Well I ordered the chain and the tensioner blade but I guess I need the whole tensioner. There doesn't seem to be a correct part on davidsilvers website.

Was also hoping some of you could advise me on other stuff to check if this broke? I do plan on swapping out water pump seal and the stator since I'm already down there, I'm following mostly the triple bypass on motofaction and my service manual. I don't really feel like replacing clutch plates after ordering gaskets and hardware budget and time is already tight, though I'm sure they could stand it

Unfortunately this is not the type of motor with the manual tensioner adjuster.
 

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Premium Member
1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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12,483 Posts
PM me with an offer. I've got autotensioner.
 

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While your in there replace the starter clutch springs. I think with 40 yr. old bikes the Quad by-pass should be done on all models, but especially the 650. Some members have modified to a manual adjustment, if you care to look into that. There is at lest one tread on that subject. Member F104wart has made some improvements on the auto tensioners, but I think you need a working one for him to make the changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Keith. I'll add it to the pile.

Damn. If Randall doesn't come through, i can't seem to find the entire tensioner anywhere.

I found the part number but no one seems to have it. Any ideas?
Part # 14500-MC7-010

Buy an old bike I said, it'll be fun I said
 

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1982 cx500tc turbo
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180 Posts

Check out this post
This fine gentleman in Germany has what you are looking for

TLD 🇨🇦 🇩🇰
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Given the choice I think I'd opt for converting it to a manual adjuster if I could (you would need a rear cover from a GL500 as well as the adjuster, bolt and a thread adapter).

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
 
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