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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am having probs with the feul system light coming on and the bike going to default safe mode when ridding at full throttle.

i have lubed the wastegate shaft with mouse milk and changed out the P2 sensor .

it runs better with the replacement sensor but still stumbles when pushed hard.

is there a way to test the sensors i have as the one i got from ebay maybee in the same state as the original??

also i dont rcall seeing the red bands show on the boost gage(dont know if that is relevant)

thanks mark
 

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You say it still stumbles when pushed hard, does that mean it's no longer setting a fault code?



In all the years I've been into CXs, sensors have not exactly been considered fail prone. Seem that within the last few weeks many feel they're dropping like flies.



Odds of two bad sensors will be very slim.



When pushed hard, fuel demand is high and a partially plugged fuel filter will cause hesitation or the bike to die out temporarily.
 

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You say it still stumbles when pushed hard, does that mean it's no longer setting a fault code?



In all the years I've been into CXs, sensors have not exactly been considered fail prone. Seem that within the last few weeks many feel they're dropping like flies.



Odds of two bad sensors will be very slim.



When pushed hard, fuel demand is high and a partially plugged fuel filter will cause hesitation or the bike to die out temporarily.


Yes, fuel filter may be suspect. When it stumbles at higher RPM, I would also take a close look at plugs, wires and the coil. I have actually ran the engine at night with the lights off, looked closely and could see slight bluish arcing across the engine block from cracked plug boots and wires. Any cracks from the coil would result in spark energy going to ground and causing a miss or stumble. It might be time to simply replace the boots and wires, and make sure then fit snuggly into the coil, and that the coil has not cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the help everyone,

i will look at the fuel system next.

every time it has stumbled it has had the same code. .(w is blinking and #1 is on solid)

but after changeing the p2 sensor i took it out for a test and the same thing happened but i didnt check the code.

so when it gets below 100 in the garrage i will have a look.

cheers mark
 

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thanks for the help everyone,

i will look at the fuel system next.

every time it has stumbled it has had the same code. .(w is blinking and #1 is on solid)

but after changeing the p2 sensor i took it out for a test and the same thing happened but i didnt check the code.

so when it gets below 100 in the garrage i will have a look.

cheers mark
I guess we will hear back from you in October then. It was only 98 here today but the humidity made it feel like about 200. My garage is the same way. I built a basement shop on this house when I built it so I would have a comfy place to work on the toys. Now if I could get my wife to move all her projects so I can use the basement instead of the garage. Good luck, it sounds like you are getting closer.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cheers ed yes a basement would be a boon , but i am thinking of either putting a window a/c unit in the wall or under the garrage door as a cheaper option.

deppending on the deed restrictions of the HOA.
 

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cheers ed yes a basement would be a boon , but i am thinking of either putting a window a/c unit in the wall or under the garrage door as a cheaper option.

deppending on the deed restrictions of the HOA.
Agreed on the garage temps. I can barely wipe my face before I am soaked again in the garage. Gotta get that Christmas junk and furniture moved out of the basement. Part of the problem with trying to get decent temps in a garage is that they usually are not insulated in the walls or the attic. If you can't put in a window unit they sell portable units at Home Depot that only need a small exhaust vent (about 2" x 6"). I had to add additional cooling to my server room at work and just exhausted it out the attic. It cut the temps by 10+ degrees. It wouldn't cool a garage, but it might make a small area close to the bike fairly tolerable.



I just bought some manuals from Dan Topping a few weeks ago. Look at the recent link about owners manuals, Dan had a post there.
 

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cheers ed yes a basement would be a boon , but i am thinking of either putting a window a/c unit in the wall or under the garrage door as a cheaper option.

deppending on the deed restrictions of the HOA.
Agreed on the garage temps. I can barely wipe my face before I am soaked again in the garage. Gotta get that Christmas junk and furniture moved out of the basement. Part of the problem with trying to get decent temps in a garage is that they usually are not insulated in the walls or the attic. If you can't put in a window unit they sell portable units at Home Depot that only need a small exhaust vent (about 2" x 6"). I had to add additional cooling to my server room at work and just exhausted it out the attic. It cut the temps by 10+ degrees. It wouldn't cool a garage, but it might make a small area close to the bike fairly tolerable.



I just bought some manuals from Dan Topping a few weeks ago. Look at the recent link about owners manuals, Dan had a post there.
 

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Mark,,

The ignition system has a really hard time when you have those cylinders chock-full of fuel-charge. Make sure everything on the high-voltage side is "spot-on" or better. New plugs, cleaned and on-spec. plug caps, new high voltage leads, clean screw-in glands on the coils, and DON'T use anything but proper multi-stranded copper-cored high voltage leads. Plus make sure the lead ends do really have copper there, that contacts the pin on the coil and the screw in the plug cap. You DON'T need resistor plugs, either - they have just one more lossy component inside them, and it's also one more thing to break down and give trouble. The days of ruining the AM radio program that some passer-by was listening to, are gone, as is most of the analogue TV that was watched by those in the street you are riding on.

Running the bike at night, and watching for any light around any/all of the high voltage components is a VERY good check, as Rod says.
 

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The tall plastic fittings (boot) which clip onto the spark plug have a resistor built into them. Look inside the boot and see the small brass slotted plug in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and unscrew the fitting and underneath is a small resistor. I measure the resistance on the boot resistors on my 500T and they measured 4500 ohms. I also measured the resistance of my new Iridium spark plugs and they also measured right at 4400 Ohms. That will give you some data to start with. In a pinch, if your boot resistor resistance is too high, you can cut a short piece of brass brazing rod the same length as the resistor and install it in place of the resistor. Some people may flame me for suggesting that but I can't stand the loud booming sound systems I hear in traffic anyway. In case you are wondering, the resistors are there to build up the current potential in the ignition coil so that when ionization at the spark plug gap breaks down, you get a tremendous spark discharge at the spark plug gap. You will not damage your CXT ignition system by using the substitute rod in the spark plug boot. The resistor in the spark plug itself will provide enough resistance. The boot resistor is a redundant feature. At any rate you can always buy replacement spark plug boots and install them on your spark plug wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks to all that helped ,turbodan i have been trying to contact you for one of your replacement feul filters but i have got the parts now all i have to do is conect it al up. if i fail i will come back to you.

cheers everyone mark
 
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