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1982 CX500C (US)
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Discussion Starter #1
So now that I've lowered my bars I have a crap ton of extra wire in the headlight box, pretty sure I'm going to want to shorten those up.

There's also a few other spots where I've wanted to de-pin a connector to relocate, shorten, etc but I haven't for the life of me been able to get the terminals out without wrecking the connector.

Are they all just a single tab connector inside and I just need something flat and firm to get them out? (or the proper tool).

Additionally, are there any nice compact and modern connectors people have used to replace some of the bulky ones? Especially in the headlight can.
 

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Which bike have you? The terminals are different on some models.

If a standard you need a flat tool about 4 mm wide. If a C or D a flat tool about 3 mm across.

They don't need to be anything fancy, I make mine from sprinkler keys.

When inserting the tool into the block push the wire you are attempting to remove back towards the tool. You are trying to depress a hook. If you push it back with the tool it is more difficult to remove.
 

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1982 cx500tc turbo
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34 Posts
Well here is my advice
I make most of my release tools out of Piano wire and Wood Dowel for the handle
Also I use small Screwdrivers that is shaped to my desired shape
Yes I have all the Hi end tool's as well. Been doing electrical low voltage for many years

I think there is a couple kits out there that has the replacement terminals for motorcycles
For the OEM connectors.There is a electronic supply store here local that I get my terminals from for the bikes

When I do electrical on the Race Cars I prefer to use DEUTSCH connectors
the quality of Deutsch connectors are the best one on the marked and the selection is good
The smaller DTM style is some what small and compact
DEUTSCH makes two style wire terminal's and both of them you need the proper Crimping tool

TLD
 

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Premium Member
1982 CX500C (US)
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Took the dremel to a junk hex key, seemed to do the trick mostly. Thanks!

IMG_3264.jpeg

40 year old connectors be grumpy. These are off the starter solenoid as I need to extend the activation cable up into the seat tray.
 

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Premium Member
1982 CX500C (US)
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well here is my advice
I make most of my release tools out of Piano wire and Wood Dowel for the handle
Also I use small Screwdrivers that is shaped to my desired shape
Yes I have all the Hi end tool's as well. Been doing electrical low voltage for many years

I think there is a couple kits out there that has the replacement terminals for motorcycles
For the OEM connectors.There is a electronic supply store here local that I get my terminals from for the bikes

When I do electrical on the Race Cars I prefer to use DEUTSCH connectors
the quality of Deutsch connectors are the best one on the marked and the selection is good
The smaller DTM style is some what small and compact
DEUTSCH makes two style wire terminal's and both of them you need the proper Crimping tool

TLD
I had been looking at this kit:


Similar-ish connectors right? Overall they didn't seem much smaller on spec but maybe a bit.

I definitely see where I could rip some stuff out of the headlight bucket or reduce it, definitely don't need THIS much in there just for lights for the gauges and the instrument panel.

206402


This one's getting super condensed.
 

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1982 cx500tc turbo
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34 Posts

Have a look at this set
They are small .Have used them in the past

The kit you posted a link for is The DT and you want to find DTM style

TLD
 
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I’m in the middle of going through a whole bike rewire and doing the same thing... trying to update connectors with more modern compact sealed connectors.

To fit your needs, looks at the Furukawa rfw series. High density in small form factor.


For smaller, less dense and smaller gauge connector, look at the JST JWPF series.
 

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1982 CX500C (US)
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I’m in the middle of going through a whole bike rewire and doing the same thing... trying to update connectors with more modern compact sealed connectors.

To fit your needs, looks at the Furukawa rfw series. High density in small form factor.


For smaller, less dense and smaller gauge connector, look at the JST JWPF series.
The Furukawa look really nice but definitely pricey!

I’m going to grab this pack and see how things go, these look decent.

1 box of 19 Sets JST Type Automotive Connectors JST02R-JWPF-VSLE 2/3/4/6/8 Pin Waterproof Connectors Male and Female 1 box of 19 Sets JST Type Automotive Connectors JST02R-JWPF-VSLE 2/3/4/6/8 Pin Waterproof Connectors Male and Female: Amazon.ca: Automotive
 

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I prefer to keep the original type 2.8mm terminal connectors because it makes it easier to replace parts later on. I get them on eBay for usually under $1 each and I bought a few hundred each of the replacement terminals so I can re use the connector if it is in good condition.
I've tried all sorts of home made tools, screwdrivers &c for removing the terminals but I find that bent internal circlip pliers similar to the ones linked below work best for me because they let me push the tab in to release the terminal and push it out at the same time
 

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1982 CX500C (US)
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So the JST JPWF connectors came, they're quite nice but I didn't look up the spec ahead of time and they're only rated for 22AWG wire, I'm sure I can get 20AWG in there just fine but they claim the connectors are only rated for 3A. They're super compact though!

Now I think 3A is certainly plenty for the LED replacements I've got in the speedo/tech and instrument cluster, so that connector will get updated for sure.

The connector for the controls is already pretty small and I have to do a pretty major shortening of those so I might actually swap out some other connectors that are not carrying major load. I would think the starter/kill switch side wouldn't carry much current as the starter switch triggers the magnetic switch, and the kill switch is just a ground short... But on the left side I need to look and see if the high beam current actually runs through there as I think it does.

I'll have to review the wiring schematic again and see what's on the go.

 

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If you have an'82 it should have Transistor amplifier Ignition (TI). The kill switch on TI machines interrupts the power to the ignition circuits, probably more like 5 amps, maybe more.

The high/low beam switch definitely has the full current for the headlight through it. For the usual 55/60W H4 bulb that's about 5A for the high beam and a bit less for the low.

The horn button also carries the full current for the horn, I'd say about 6A or more if you have double horns (the stock setup).
 

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1982 CX500C (US)
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
If you have an'82 it should have Transistor amplifier Ignition (TI). The kill switch on TI machines interrupts the power to the ignition circuits, probably more like 5 amps, maybe more.

The high/low beam switch definitely has the full current for the headlight through it. For the usual 55/60W H4 bulb that's about 5A for the high beam and a bit less for the low.

The horn button also carries the full current for the horn, I'd say about 6A or more if you have double horns (the stock setup).
Maybe I'll measure the current on TI side but I imagine it'd be fairly high (not over 10A obviously), but I just checked my LED headlamp I'm putting in and it's 1.4A on low and 2.2A on high beams so safe in there if needed!

For the horn I'll have to get some earplugs out and give it a measure (single horn on the custom) so hopefully not over 3A.
 

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78 CX500
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for just shortening excess wires use those nice little at&t splices, loop your wire around and crimp in the connector then cut out the loop. quick simple easy. learned to do that when i installed and serviced those huge satellite dishes back in the early 80s
 

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78 CX500
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actually they endure more wind and moving vibrations, the actuators were designed to lift campers and trailers, not 10ft diameter wind catchers and instead of being tucked away someplace they get stretched out and pushed back every time the dish moves. yeah, i worked on the old dishes, not these new little bitty things that just sit there. put a 16ft fiberglass unit up 46 feet in the air, when the wind blew that pipe sang and i dont mean it whistled, i mean it vibrated like a giant tuning fork. those at&t splices were designed to be used in outside conditions and keep phones working for years
yes, splicing soldering and sealing is best, but sometimes ya gotta make do
 

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1982 cx500tc turbo
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Look at this
I have one and it was the prototype I got at the tool show
This tool works grate

TLD
 
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$70-80 US! for the tool and $9 for the solder to go in it? And from what I can see it only works for one outer diameter of insulation. Someone saw him coming...

I have one of these for working on the bench ($5 CAD) but I've never needed anything like it when working on the bike.

I guess you could cobble up something with alligator clips on it to hold the wires if you were having trouble but even that would be overkill.
 
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