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I'm still wondering why he "had to let go" with both hands while driving.
I do that regularly (or I did when I rode regularly), usually to reposition a glove, tug down a cuff, etc.
I don't do that with a passenger, as the different weight distribution makes the bike less stable. Solo, she's usually rock solid.

Randall
 

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I don't know why, but "Tank Slapper" makes me think of this song:

 

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Checking Head Bearings





This procedure is very hard to explain even though it is very easy to do ... If my directions don't do it for you ask a mentor to show you. I was showing someone earlier this month how to do it and discovered that my GL650 I head bearings were shot!!! I had checked them at the beginning of the riding season, so that shows they can go out at almost anytime on anyone.

To check the head bearings have someone sit on the back of the bike so the rear wheel is firmly on the ground.

Then go to the front of the bike and kneel down in front of it and grab both forks firmly with your hands. Pull slowly forward and push slowly backwards feeling for any movement. Be sure that you are no compressing the springs at all and confusing that with movement back and forth. This tells you if the bearings are loose and need adjusting. Sometimes it can also show that the forks are worn out ... so if you aren't sure ask someone who knows to test them for you.

To test for shot bearings (Not the same as loose bearings) while that person is on the back of the bike by putting one finger very lightly on top of or on the end of the handgrip of the bike. Then move the handlebars every so slowly (about a minute lock to lock) back and forth feeling for a very slight notch or stop in the rotation of the bar. It is usually very near to having the wheels straight ahead that you will normally find the notching effect. If you feel it drop into a notch that means the bearings are shot and need replacing.

You can have loose bearings and not have them shot, but you cannot have notched bearings without them being shot.

I hope this doesn't confuse you ... if it does I always recommend that you find a mentor to help you and when you become equal to that mentor you become a mentor to someone else.
 

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Checking Head Bearings





This procedure is very hard to explain even though it is very easy to do ... If my directions don't do it for you ask a mentor to show you. I was showing someone earlier this month how to do it and discovered that my GL650 I head bearings were shot!!! I had checked them at the beginning of the riding season, so that shows they can go out at almost anytime on anyone.

To check the head bearings have someone sit on the back of the bike so the rear wheel is firmly on the ground.

Then go to the front of the bike and kneel down in front of it and grab both forks firmly with your hands. Pull slowly forward and push slowly backwards feeling for any movement. Be sure that you are no compressing the springs at all and confusing that with movement back and forth. This tells you if the bearings are loose and need adjusting. Sometimes it can also show that the forks are worn out ... so if you aren't sure ask someone who knows to test them for you.

To test for shot bearings (Not the same as loose bearings) while that person is on the back of the bike by putting one finger very lightly on top of or on the end of the handgrip of the bike. Then move the handlebars every so slowly (about a minute lock to lock) back and forth feeling for a very slight notch or stop in the rotation of the bar. It is usually very near to having the wheels straight ahead that you will normally find the notching effect. If you feel it drop into a notch that means the bearings are shot and need replacing.

You can have loose bearings and not have them shot, but you cannot have notched bearings without them being shot.

I hope this doesn't confuse you ... if it does I always recommend that you find a mentor to help you and when you become equal to that mentor you become a mentor to someone else.
Bob,

Are the shot bearings ball bearings or tapered needle bearings?
 

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I've never had mine apart but the original ones in these bikes are ball bearings. Any roller bearing,or ball bearing can develop the wear Dave is talking about, though. Unlike wheel bearings that turn 360 degrees over & over and wear more or less uniformly, steering head bearings are constantly being moved slightly from one side of centred to the other as you automatically correct when driving in a "straight" line so that the individual bearings only run back & forth on a small portion of their races that is often narrower than the spaces between the balls or rollers. Eventually the races will develop indentations that try to keep the bearings from moving far sideways, causing the "notch" described.

BTW: I would tend to refer to bearings in this condition as "worn out". To me a bearing that is "shot" would be one that has passed through the barrel of a BB gun :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Got new tires. 100/90-19 Maxxis M6102 Promaxx and 120/90-18 Maxxis M6103 Promaxx. I took a wider back tire to match the pattern with the front because there were no matching tires with the original size. They are really soft compared to the old tires that are rock hard. Took my wheels to a workshop that will change and balance them. Will report back in a few days when i can go for a ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Took my bike for a ride with the new tires and feels alot smoother but still getting wobbles. They dont happen that fast and are not that strong in the beginning. I tried to almost sit on the gas tank and seemed as if i was no longer getting the wobble. Can it be that i have my front shocks mounted way too high? The top clamp is at the top of the shock where there is a small groove around it. Looking my bike from afar i get a feeling that my front end might too high.
 

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That sounds like the correct position. Could it be that the bikes back end is too low? Are you normally sitting far back on the seat?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Might have found the problem. My luggagebox frame is a little wobbly and will need a bracket to stiffen it from the back. Anyways with even the empty luggage boxes the frame bends alot when going over even a small bump and causes the boxes to shake and that causes the front end to also wobble.
 

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Hopefully that is it, don't need the tank slapper.
 
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