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I'm in the states (ohio) and there are 2 stations within a fairly close drive from my house that advertise ethanol free gas. It costs more than ethanol fuel though.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I'd bet if people really understood what Mike described in that article the market for more expensive ethanol free would disappear. Its like people who use higher octane fuel than their engine needs because they think more expensive means better when all it really means in this case is produced in smaller quantities because vehicles that need it aren't common.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Almost every problem I've had with a small engine, either 2- or 4-stroke, has been the result of gas going stale in the tank or gas can. I've never had that happen with E0, and I've never used an additive.
 

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You can buy ethanal free fuel at most motorcycle shops that do racing bikes, any place that sells boat fuel, near race tracks or even at Home Depot or Walmart. The problem is water in the fuel, that's what the manufactures tell me that comes from the air. I have learned to buy my fuel at the busiest stations in town if I'm running fuel with ethanal since there are small stations around me sell full that tests bad right out of the pump.
 

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My lawn tractor can sit all winter with our regular gas, which contains ethanol, and start and run just fine in the spring. I can't say the same about my small 2 cycle engined snow blower. It generally requires a shot of carb cleaner into the adjustment screws before it will start. Mind you, the lawn tractor is electric start, the snow blower pull start. That may have something to do with it.
 

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You all realize, none of us is going to convince the others to change their minds. We each have our own experience with this stuff.
 
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True!
 

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I sometimes think that E10 in the US may not be as good as E10 sold in Canada but then I read things like the quotes below and I'm pretty sure that all the E10 problems reported from there are either anecdotal (& thus irrelevant) tales from biased or brainwashed sources or there was something else going on like poor storage conditions.
Finally, there is the myth that oxygenates in the fuel cause it to break down and go bad faster. This is silly. It's inarguable that modern gas breaks down surprisingly quickly, much faster than it used to. However, as with so many things, the Internet "experts" have got this one backward too. It's not the oxygenates that make the fuel break down faster but rather the removal of the aromatics (benzene, toluene and xylene) that were common in gasoline fifty years ago that result in our fuel's short storage life. The aromatics are no longer there to preserve it. That's right. It's not what's in the gas but what's not in it that is the problem, when it comes to fuel deterioration.
Those who perpetuate the "ethanol myth" don't understand the technology, don't know the history, and aren't aware of the forces at work in the powersports industry. It is not true that today's oxygenated fuels are demonstrably harmful to either carburetor durability or carburetor function. Good fuels and good people are being unjustly maligned due to this nonsense. It's time this myth was busted and reason was brought to bear.
- Mike Nixon ethanol: as bad as all that? www.motorcycleproject.com
 

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One man's opinion, even if it is Mike Nixon.
 

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Sorry Randall but as much as I like and respect you I'll take the opinion of someone with a background like his over yours any day in matters related to engines and what makes them work or not work.
 

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See post #27.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
At least you have a sheltered place to put it up for winter.
And for that I am extremely grateful. Actually talked with the landlord yesterday and he sound amenable to letting us set up a canvas 10x12 come the spring. It wouldn't be perfect but at least I'll have a workbench.

they sell a siphon at Home Depot that you can suck the gas out with. You can get 98% of the gas out with little problem,
This was my fallback plan if needed. My concern however was that I wouldn't get enough out. It also sounded like draining and removing the tank was a fairly straightforward endeavor and I figured I should probably know how to do it. At the very least, the experience would get me more comfortable with working on the bike and, thanks to all the help from folks on this forum, it did.
 

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I can't say about the Custom but on mine it takes longer to remove the seat and side covers to get at the single bolt that holds the tank on than it does to undo that bolt, disconnect the fuel line and lift the tank off.
Of course taking my side covers off takes a bit longer than normal because they are bolted on...
 

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drain the carbs too - fuel left in there over winter will be sludgy and non-flammable by spring time
 
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