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Its obvious that I need to clean and line my tank. I have the alcohol and hex nuts bit to try and clean the tank out and it works but not that well, is there a better way and what is a good tank lining kit to get?
 

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I just did mine with the Kreem kit. 3 steps in the kit, with phosphoric acid and water. Then MEK to make sure water displaced and rinse. Then Final slosh with Kreem's fuel resistant elastomer. Make sure the tank surface is down to bare metal, and no left over rusty bits. The final elastomer also fills in any pits.

Cheers,
 

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When I did mine I just used some dollar store toilet bowl cleaner, it's very similiar chemically to the more expensive tank cleaners. Then I used a couple pints of acetone (also known as fingernail polish remover at walmart) to remove any water. so far I am pleased with the results.
 

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Don't use Kreem. Kreem is crap. The only good thing about it is you can use acetone to remove it when it gets screwed up.



Por 15 tank liner, Casewells and Red coat are the liner of choice.



Obviously Por 15 is my choice. I stand by it because 1 it works. 2 I have never heard anything bad about it besides gstings last tank problem of mysterious black stuff. And 3 I was dumb and capped the can after using it on a humid day and it absorbs moisture in the air making it one time use unless used at low humidity. But 15 minutes after it was capped I was walking by the can and the lid blew 7 feet in the air and came down on my hair and shirt. No mater what chemicals I used on it the sealer wouldn't come free. All the hair that was touched needed to be cut off and I still have the shirt and after two years every spot the sealer fell on is rock hard.



Besides my stupid story that's why I use it.



Some sealers have kits but I prefer Muriatic acid diluted. 1 or 2 cups to 3 gallons of water. There's more to it but it's the trick I picked up from Larry. I once did the vinegar solution but it took forever. But remember acid eats metal so if it's to bad there's no saving it.



Another method is picking up a couple gallons of evaporust and pouring that in the tank. Not sure how long it takes but it doesn't hurt the metal and then it can be filtered back into the jugs and used again.



And then there's electrolysis.
 

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NOT ME!!!!!!!!!...........Lol........It's "Mariachi".........Take 2 er 3........The POOR mans remedy......ROFL



Besides that, the excercise, won't kill me.......Lol
 

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I used various sizes of smaller nuts, bolts and screws for them hard to reach places. Was quite a trick though, fishing all that hardware out with a magnet. Think I may have missed one piece though, as I thought I heard something rattling around inside my tank, last time I had it off. Oh well, I'll chalk it up as a "continual preventive maintenance" measure......May even put some plastic headed jigs in there for further "Dusting N Cleaning" as the fuel level drops. ROFL
 

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Last season I used Caswells. Followed the direction as far as using screws to get loose rust. I took water and filled the tank and rinsed it repeatedly to get the screws out and didn't stop until it was coming out clear. (we welded a small hole in the tank during the course of all of this, since it was already filled with water) Took the air compressor and dried the tank- sealed the inside, and when it was "cured" with the appropriate time I had it in the painters to get the paint laid on the tank. So mine had a month or so to "cure".



I have had no problems with the Caswells, in fact it's been GREAT!
 

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Well if you think about it a chain, screws or ball bearings isn't meant to clean the tank. It's just meant to remove the stuff sticking up. After that the tank still needs a liner no matter what poor mans trick you have or it will come back to bite you the following season.



If you don't have good luck getting stuff out of tight spaces a chain is the easiest thing to remove as long as you can find the end.
 

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What issues did you have with the Kreem kit? Do they break down over time?



This is my second one.



Cheers


There have been many accounts of kreem falling apart because If I believe right it's suppose to stay flexible in the tank so it would be similar to having a balloon in the tank. When it pops it won't all come out but small sections as if you were ripping them off in small sections. Then it's just a mater of time when the gas makes it's way under the liner causing a flap for more stuff to come off.



A way to think of it is kreem is like jello and the others inflexible paint.
 

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OK, good to know. I'll have to keep an eye on mine and might have to acetone rinse the whole shitaree out when it starts to flake.

Kreem was the only thing available to me, as I'm kinda isolated up here.



cheers
 

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Its obvious that I need to clean and line my tank. I have the alcohol and hex nuts bit to try and clean the tank out and it works but not that well, is there a better way and what is a good tank lining kit to get?


Kreem only partially does the job. Use this: http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/ Don't be surprised at the price. Quality costs. It does the job correctly the first time. I rebuild Air-Cooled VW's, and there isn't a POR-15 product that isn't good. The CX-500 High-Temperature H-box paint in silver was a POR-15 product. Oh, and don't skip the Marine Clean step. Bare Metal preparation is very important for POR15. The inside of your gas tank, when finished, will feel and look like it was powder-coated.



This Gas tank product is for car gas tanks, so have a friend bring his tank too. Share the cost! I would bet you could do 3 tanks, now that I think of it. It will take a couple of days to do it properly. And skip the last fuel stabilizer step---thats for preping your tank & engine for WINTER STORAGE, not day-to-day maintenance. Keep it off threads. If it does get onto threads, then use a thread cutter to re-establish the threads.



I have a 74-VW-Super Beetle, and a 78-VW-Camper-ASI/Riviera. And have owned others. Also the CX500-Deluxe rebuild. All of these antiques have POR15 everywhere to halt rust. The only problem with POR15? It gets rough and strange looking when exposed to the sun for a year-or-two. So surfaces treated with POR15 that are exposed to the orange ball in the sky, really needs to be covered. But your gas tank inside should not be affected by ultra-violet light damage to POR15.



The POR15 products are based upon Cyan-acrilate, the active ingredient in Super-Glue. But when dry, POR15 is very similar in look and feel to Powder Coating. It's expensive.



To stop rust THIS YEAR, use Rustoleum. To stop rust for 2 years, use Kreem. To stop rust forever (10+ years), use POR15.



Montana Clifford
 

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Kreem only partially does the job. Use this: http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/ Don't be surprised at the price. Quality costs. It does the job correctly the first time. I rebuild Air-Cooled VW's, and there isn't a POR-15 product that isn't good. The CX-500 High-Temperature H-box paint in silver was a POR-15 product. Oh, and don't skip the Marine Clean step. Bare Metal preparation is very important for POR15. The inside of your gas tank, when finished, will feel and look like it was powder-coated.



This Gas tank product is for car gas tanks, so have a friend bring his tank too. Share the cost! I would bet you could do 3 tanks, now that I think of it. It will take a couple of days to do it properly. And skip the last fuel stabilizer step---thats for preping your tank & engine for WINTER STORAGE, not day-to-day maintenance. Keep it off threads. If it does get onto threads, then use a thread cutter to re-establish the threads.



I have a 74-VW-Super Beetle, and a 78-VW-Camper-ASI/Riviera. And have owned others. Also the CX500-Deluxe rebuild. All of these antiques have POR15 everywhere to halt rust. The only problem with POR15? It gets rough and strange looking when exposed to the sun for a year-or-two. So surfaces treated with POR15 that are exposed to the orange ball in the sky, really needs to be covered. But your gas tank inside should not be affected by ultra-violet light damage to POR15.



The POR15 products are based upon Cyan-acrilate, the active ingredient in Super-Glue. But when dry, POR15 is very similar in look and feel to Powder Coating. It's expensive.



To stop rust THIS YEAR, use Rustoleum. To stop rust for 2 years, use Kreem. To stop rust forever (10+ years), use POR15.



Montana Clifford


Yeah. POR makes GOOD stuff. its as permanent as you can get in the world of rust prevention and elimination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well then it sounds like I should use the Por15 stuff, I think Wooterson was saying he needed to do his tank so I might see if he wants to get together and do both at the same time to share the cost.
 

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If you can do it on a low humidity day you should be able to do the one tank then dump it into the next tank and then into a mason jar for canning and cap it off. Larry had a quart can that he did 8 tanks with but the key was low humidity and getting it back into the can. A rep told him about the mason jars.
 

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I used some cheap stuff a while back from tractor supply and didnt like the results. I have a new tank and even though it looks great and doesnt seem to have any issues, I am using the por 15 to save me future troubles =)
 

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we found the red kote to peel,but it could have been the user not cleaning the tank correctly.



the best we have found is a product called KPS Gold, dries like metal and if done correctly the tank looks like new.



my gl500 tank was done in KBS but was also done with electrolysis before hand.I ve got another three tanks to do and will only use the KPS product.And I think its ethanol resistant which others are not.



http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/Gold-Standard-Tank-Sealer-Information-Instructions_ep_46-1.html



http://australiancx.asn.au/forum/index.php?topic=4922.0;highlight=kbs+gold
 
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