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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have broken every strap wrench I have ever owned.

I find them... inadequate.

I hunted around all afternoon for one that looked sturdy.

I gave up and come home to fabricate my own.



I took a cheap (about $3) NYLON tie down strap rated for a few hundred pounds. I think this one was 300 lbs.

I cut about 3 1/2 or 4 feet off the end. Feel free to cut more if you like.

I then took out the duct tape. I taped one side of the nylon to a large 1/2 inch drive socket. I think I used a 22 mm. Then gave it 3/4 of a wrap around the socket. I then put the other side of the nylon on the socket and taped it down for about 3/4 of a wrap around the socket. Be careful that you tape the ends down such that you do not have any twists in the nylon.



This gave me a very large loop taped to the socket. I then put it on the flywheel and twisted the socket until the nylon was tight. The nylon binds against the socket and against the flywheel instant cheap and strong strap wrench.















You say

"But what happens when you need to go the other direction? You need to have the flywheel tight while you take one bolt out counter clockwise then the opposite while you use your flywheel puller (20mm X1.5 pitch Subaru drain bolt)."

Yes but if you stick a 1/2 extension (shorter the better) in the front of the socket you effectively reverse the direction of the strap wrench.







Just a thought and it worked very well for me. Good luck to everybody.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·


For the win!

I remember seeing that before but I had forgotten it when I constructed the strap wrench.

I thought the strap wrench was pretty good so shared but you definitely have this one!
 

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I called a local bike shop, and he said if he doesn't have a proper tool, stick a piece of wood on the piston under the head, make it as large as you can with it still fitting to help spread the force more... Worked for me a few times with no damage
 

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normally you are removeing the flywheel to get at the cam chain.

if your bike was running before you drop the motor,then,lock up the front of the motor,as shown in the manual,a bar easily made.

no matter what happens,you know your flywheel is locked and your camchain is going back the way it came out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
normally you are removeing the flywheel to get at the cam chain.

if your bike was running before you drop the motor,then,lock up the front of the motor,as shown in the manual,a bar easily made.

no matter what happens,you know your flywheel is locked and your camchain is going back the way it came out.


I read the haynes manual I have for it and I did not see the bar you refer to. I will have to go back over the shop manual to see what I missed. I have the shop manual but the haynes was perfectly clear and I did not refer to the shop manual.
 

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Thanks for all the idea's. I did see the bar in one of the manuals I have (still shows it as a CDI engine) but skipped it since I dont have the front cover off (which I assume is where all the gears are). I guess I should really take off the front case, since I have to replace the tach case anyway and wanted to check out the oil pump, then I could use the penny idea.



I am going to try to take as many pics as possible, maybe someone will find it helpfull down the road. I was just wondering if anyone see's anything in the pics I should be concerned about, as I really want to make sure all is well before I button it back up.
 

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The flywheel bolt will zip out in a fraction of a second with an air impact wrench. No need to hold anything. The mass of the engine and flywheel are enough. I put the bolt back on the same way.
 

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I got mine of just by putting a second wrench on the front crank bolt, gave it a push and "snap!". Thought I had busted something, but it was just the bolt letting go. Oil filter bolt worked well to get the rotor off :)
 
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