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still noisy

4327 Views 48 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Shep
So it took me a long time to do, between all the other projects I had going, but I finally finished putting the bike back together after replacing the cam chain. There was some pretty bad wear inside the case from that thing.



Unfortunately, the bike is still noisy. It's pretty decent when the motor is cold, but once it's warmed up, it's still pretty noisy (albeit not as bad as before I did the chain).



I've properly tensioned the chain, and have checked/adjusted the valves (.003 and .004 with the motor stone cold). What else can I do?
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I believe this is the same switch. Maybe Shep will chime in, he found the switches originally... I know it's the same vendor I used.



I'll be happy to send one out to you guys. Let me find out what the postage is tomorrow and I'll get back to ya.



-- Keith
Just bought this fan:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...-All-Categories&_fvi=1&viewitem=#ht_762wt_939





Not an awesome deal, but better than nothing.



Shoreride, I think I'll take you up on that offer. Sending a message...


keep me updated on how this works out for you I also hve a bit noisy engine after replacing my cam chain an setting tappets. However my headers are not permenently installed so I contribute a lot of it to leaky exhaust and fan.
I believe this is the same switch. Maybe Shep will chime in, he found the switches originally... I know it's the same vendor I used.



I'll be happy to send one out to you guys. Let me find out what the postage is tomorrow and I'll get back to ya.



PS

My 1st conversion has now been through two summers and a Winter and coming up to it's 2nd winter soon and still running flawlessly.





-- Keith


Yep.Same ones.As stated I snipped off the little ring thingy to make them easier to glue on.





PS

My 1st conversion has now been through two summers and a Winter and coming up to it's 2nd winter soon and still running flawlessly.
Has anyone had any experience using any kind of sensor that would go on to a radiator fluid port? I thought I remembered someone with a GL500i on the old site that had done something like this. I would like to use a Hayden fan switch on my conversion, I think the sensor they have is 1/8" NPT.
I haven't heard anything else about the Hayden Automotive - Electric Fan Control

either until last month. Toehead said he had been using it for a while.

"That is exactly the one I am using. I am not sure how well it would work over the long term (it seems kind of fragile and not waterproof) but it seems to be working for the short term."



He put on the smaller/simpler switch right when he got it. Maybe he'll chime-in to compare the two.
I haven't heard anything else about the Hayden Automotive - Electric Fan Control

either until last month. Toehead said he had been using it for a while.

"That is exactly the one I am using. I am not sure how well it would work over the long term (it seems kind of fragile and not waterproof) but it seems to be working for the short term."



He put on the smaller/simpler switch right when he got it. Maybe he'll chime-in to compare the two.
That I did!



The smaller switch does look more reliable. The hayden unit I had used a radiator probe, but the control box didn't look waterproof. I wouldnt have trusted it for a long ride.



I will say that the 75 unit turns on at just about the optimal temperature on the gauge. In the summer though, the fan turns on once and then doesn't turn off again. That could be my radiator being clogged, but I don't know. With the hayden, I had it set to turn on half way between the optimal and overheating marks... it would cycle and only came on at stoplights.



Now that it is cooler out, the 75 degree switch cycles as well. Overall I think the smaller switch is probably better for peace of mind.
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I found the 75 Deg C temp switch,where I mounted them,are susceptible to the the amount of coolant in the Radiator hence I only fill about 3/4" above the fins in the Rad.As in the other thread on the coolant overflow bottle doing this may not allow the coolant to to and fro' from the overflow bottle but this is under test as in a correctly cleaned and flushed system the overflow bottle may not get used much if any.

Having the Rad full and in Summer the fan may not switch off until longer sustained air-cooling kicks in but as my Ducati fans only use 2 amps this is not a problem anyway as even my 170w Stator CDI system has never flattened a battery yet but I do maintain my batteries correctly and give them a fresher step maintenance charge from time to time especially in the colder months.





This does not affect the fact that were I have mounted my Temp switch and the lower level of coolant have caused no harm whatsoever in two Summers and a Winter.If it were possible to mount the temp switch on top of the rad I think you could have the best of both worlds or you would have to fit say an 80 Deg C switch



http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Temperature-...686?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0257a7de



were not around when I wanted to try one or I couldn't source them.You can't go much above that otherwise the fan will just kick in too late.At a push an 85 Deg C N/O.A 90 Deg C definitely does not work as that's what I 1st tried.
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