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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couldn’t resist recording this. I’ve never come across a cable I couldn’t at least move by hand!
Lying down now with a drink.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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I had one like that. The cable on the Grub broke (shifting into 2nd gear leaving my driveway. How's that for lucky?)
I ordered a replacement, but being impatient, I dug out the only spare on hand. It was solid like yours. Using locking pliers, I got it to start moving, and worked penetrating oil through it until it was completely free. Lubed and installed, it's still on the bike two years later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I bought the bike a month or so ago, I bought a new Slinky Glide clutch cable, so have a replacement ready.
Experience has taught me. Had a Honda Dominator which snapped a cable at work. As that was in an area with too many stop starts, I had to be recovered. I found it embarrassing being recovered for a clutch cable, since then, always bought one. Had a BM which broke a clutch rod. As that was only eight miles from home on quiet roads, I rode home and only needed to push start it to first gear at a couple of junctions.
 

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I always put oil down the new cables (I have tons of them hanging up), and oil cables on bikes in situ every few years.
 
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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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I always put oil down the new cables (I have tons of them hanging up), and oil cables on bikes in situ every few years.
New cables don't come pre-lubed. Any oil present is there to inhibit corrosion in shipping and storage.
 
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New cables don't come pre-lubed. Any oil present is there to inhibit corrosion in shipping and storage.

I just put oil in them when I get them, whether they are to be put on the bike straight away or just as a spare, and equally every few years. Just a tiny bit of oil goes a long way- sometimes you can feel the grittiness sneak up on you and then one cold morning when salt is all around and then Cillit BANG! You have a throttle the doesn't like to turn in either direction without groaning about it.
 
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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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My preference is TriFlo. As it evaporates, it leaves behind a waxy something that continues to lubricate.
 

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CX500B 1979 and 2004 BMW F650GS
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Slinky glide should not need lubing,:


I think I read somewhere you can eventually use a ptfe spray, but I'll leave unlubed for a while to see.
 

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I just use a zip tie holding the corner of a plastic envelope (with a hole on the corner of that), and face it up in the vice. Pour down some 2t oil or any oil really to hand which I have excess of, and let gravity do the rest. Sometimes you need to pull and pull the cable to get it through though.
Silicone spray for the cables that have plastic sleeves in them.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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For Honda or Motion Pro cables I seal a funnel to the cable, hang it over the garbage can (to catch the drips), pour an ounce or so of ordinary motor oil into the funnel and wait until it comes out the bottom.
It does look like the Slinky Glides don't need that.

sometimes you can feel the grittiness sneak up on you and then one cold morning when salt is all around and then Cillit BANG! You have a throttle the doesn't like to turn in either direction without groaning about it.
Note to self: Remember to have a look at the bottom end of Eccles' clutch cable when it comes out of storage in a couple of weeks. It was OK when I changed the engine but that was 3 winters ago.....

BTW: Years ago when we lived in the city I was halfway home, preparing to exit the DVP when I tried to gear down and my GS400's clutch lever went slack. I had no choice but to finish the trip in rush hour traffic (I too had to bump start at a few intersections), I was sure it would be a broken cable but when I got home I found that the little cage affair that the engine end of the cable pulls on had broken. I had one of those little oxy/propane torches so I was able to braze it up and take the bike to work the next morning.
I guess the repair was OK because it was still good when I sold the bike about 20 years and probably 70-80,000 Km later.
 

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Had a similar cable it did move but so clogged a cable luber woukdnt free it even using cleaner for a flush.
Those simple cable lubers are only bout$10aus and make things easy......
Ill leave my typos inas using a phone vs laptop today. ......
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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A flush won't do much without a bit of manual work. If it moves, it can be cleaned, but will take some time and effort.
 

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As we seem to be sharing cable lubing tips.........i use a shop vac.
Put one end of the cable in the vacuums` hose nozzle/crevice tool and seal it with some duct tape. Turn vac on.
Drizzle the lubricating oil of your choice at the other end of the cable and the vacuum will be seen to draw it down into the cable. You can also work the inner cable up and down to help the oil along to reach all the way down the whole length. It takes just a couple of minutes to lube a cable.
Works for me..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As I’ve already bought a new cable……

I’m thinking that when I removed the clocks, front end etc. when refitting, I may have kinked the cable. It just seems far too stiff, bearing in mind I rode the bike for a few days.
 

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As I’ve already bought a new cable……

I’m thinking that when I removed the clocks, front end etc. when refitting, I may have kinked the cable. It just seems far too stiff, bearing in mind I rode the bike for a few days.
Maybe check that the pivot bolt at the lever is not binding via overtightening or not lubed.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Remember in the video, the cable is totally detached from everything. Pivot wasn’t overnighted, but seriously needed lube!

However, when I put the new one in, I will be cleaning up the pivot etc and applying Corrosion block. It is pretty gunged up and sticking.

Going off topic, sort of, the fork oil was totally gray, head bearings had a few lumps of solid 1700s grease and all the bolts I removed from the front end, well generally everywhere, had never had copper grease applied. I buggered one bolt due to being seized; I count myself lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Observation of a first-time CX 500 owner, but not new to bikes, so many bikes, probably should see a doctor.

Anyway, new clutch cable fitted. Wouldn’t want to do that by the side of the road. Needed to remove radiator surround which meant removing exhaust system. Maybe the pipes are after market, but the down pipes obscured two of the four cover bolts. Now that the four cover bolts are lubed, I could most likely do it with a 90 degree screwdriver. Exhaust was already off because of draining the coolant, plus I needed to replace the gear change oil seal.
Then to route the clutch cable between the clocks and ignition switch, I had to unbolt the two bolts holding the clocks. Which meant a 10mm socket with extension. Not something I would carry in an emergency pack.

Not complaining as bike in shed whilst I do a number of jobs, but a side of the road job would have been a pain, as you couldn’t temporarily run the cable straight from the lever to the clutch actuating arm due to angle.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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On the side of the road, I'd be employing some alternate cable routing until I got it home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeh it’s just a shame that the angle of the clutch actuating arm points at the rad surround. You’d really need to kink the cable to get it past. I’ll just take my 650 long distance instead ;)
 

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Stubby screw divers or a crosshead bit and ring spanner will get that radiator surround off or replace the cross-head srews with allen head bolts
 
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