[lazair]

I have a bad indent or dead spot in my steering,at the straight ahead point,so better replace the bearings,whats the easy way or best way to do this.Thanks .Harbri

 

[bear351c]

Fairly easy. Just list the model and year, please so we can help you more. The very early CX's have loose ball bearings, inside the triple tree. The later versions had contained roller bearings. Neither is too much trouble to replace.

 

[frenzy_rumble]

heh, I took apart the front end yesterday to polish up the shocks and neck - didn't know there were bearings in there, they went all over the shop floor. Luckily, found them all.

 

[lazair]

Bike is a 1979 cx custom,no fairing.

 

[DaveF]

The tapered roller bearings are a significant improvement and not expensive. The All Balls bearings work very well.

 

[Shep]

I have fitted a set of taper roller bearings to a spare frame I have but it's untested so I cannot say if they would be a,"Significant" improvement as both my CX with correctly serviced ball bearing systems handle superbly and attain the required standard for my Road Worthiness Certificate and my mechanic is very strict.



Tapered roller bearing may well be a better design but until my ball races become worn or damaged I can renew the bearings very very cheaply and easily,



http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=23



1/4" ball bearings.



The stock parts are still available,



http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CX500-1978/part_112697/





My 2 cents.

 

[Reg in Bristol]

If you fit tapers.

Be aware that some of us have found they 'settle' after a while

and need to be nipped up a bit after say 100 miles

Afterwards they're fine and need little or no further attention

 

[redcloud]

Here is a link to some pics I took of my repack...I even tried not to lose a bearing and as you read, I lost one down into the motor zone.



Steer Tube Bearing Repack



Good luck!

 

[lazair]

Should i go with the individual ball bearings or the tapered ones,i belive they are the newer stye ?

 

[Shep]

Your choice.If the steering races are in good condition e.g no delves/pits then just replace the ball bearings and re-pack with Lithium or Moly grease.



http://cgi.ebay.com/100-1-4-Carbon-...726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48406b27fe



Cheap and pretty easy.Although there's no doubt that tapered roller bearings are a better design I have no issues with the stock set up in either of my CX500s even at high speed cornering and stopping.





Ricks's Photos are excellent and make it an even easier job

Note:If they are serviced/replaced from time to time there's no reason they shouldn't last for 100,000 miles+.One of my frames/headstock has 84,000 miles on it.Present ride has 44,000 on it.





My 2 cents.

 

[lazair]

when changing bearings sould i change the dust seals, i have the 1/4 balls and 3 collars ?

 

[Shep]

If you have new ones then why not?If not and the old ones clean up good then re-use

 

[Billrod]

I have fitted a set of taper roller bearings to a spare frame I have but it's untested so I cannot say if they would be a,"Significant" improvement as both my CX with correctly serviced ball bearing systems handle superbly and attain the required standard for my Road Worthiness Certificate and my mechanic is very strict.



Tapered roller bearing may well be a better design but until my ball races become worn or damaged I can renew the bearings very very cheaply and easily,



http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=23



1/4" ball bearings.



The stock parts are still available,



http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CX500-1978/part_112697/





My 2 cents.

Shep,

What usually goes bad in the steering head, the balls or the races. If the races are OK what balls do you use? Stainless or what do you suggest. Thanks Billrod

 

[Shep]

Both the races and the bearings can wear.If the races are ok then 1/4" decent quality ball bearings will work but if the races have gone then they need renewing or replacing with the tapered bearing kit/s.



http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...=1/4"+ball+bearings&_sacat=See-All-Categories



As there are different ratings for bearings best get the best quality methinks but then most stainless or chromed will most likely be OK.I would prefer a known brand rather than the cheapest.



This is another part of the bikes that rarely gets serviced but if they are cleaned and re-packed with grease they can do hundreds of thousands of miles.The ones on my High mileage CX have done over 84,000 miles and show no sign of needing replacing.

 

[Billrod]

Shep,

Thanks for the information. I guess I will just have to take it apart and give it a good look. Do you think the sling shot bearings will make my bike any faster. LOLOL

Thanks again.

Billrod

 

[Billrod]

Shep,

From what I can see at the site you sent me (http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item48406b27fe) the chrome steel would be the best for our application and at $6.00 the price can't be beat. Again I say "THANKS" Billrod

 

[parkera]

Hey Folks,
I'm going to try and clean up and use the original steering stem bearings also. I was just wondering if you would give me some feed back on these photos. There is some discoloration in the races but I think its probably fine.

The rubber seals? at the top of the post dropped out with all the bearings that scattered across my garage and comparing them to the parts fiche I can't quite figure out whats what and where they belong.

 

[Billrod]

Shep,
In all the work that you have done with steering head bearings what do you find has usually been the problem. Was it the balls or the races that have worn out or failed. Also, what bearing material are the ones you use made of. Chrome steel or what? I can see that if the balls are what usually fail that would be a less expensive repair. Thanks Billrod

 

[guelli02]

H if you would give me some feed back on these photos. There is some discoloration in the races but I think its probably

Hello

My feedback is:

The yellow lines show to some of the "pitting" marks.
On these marks were the balls sitting. These balls are not turning around like in a wheel bearing.
You need a new bearing. better to buy the tapered roller version.

On the other pictures I can't see enough, too dark and blurry


Gruesse
WolFgang

 

[Kameron]

The other rubber bits in the first photo are for your headlight ears/tubes, the one with the steel ring built into the rubber goes on the top of the headlight ear