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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed the bearing races in the steering head, and the lower bearing on the lower triple tree. I then tried to assemble the upper bearing and triple tree for a trial fitting. I found that the upper bearing does not fit onto the tube freely. It feels like it's going to be a press fit as the lower bearing is. That doesn't seem right. How would you disassemble to relube the bearings periodically? Has anyone else ran into this problem?

Dan
 

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It doesn't sound right. As long as you pack the bearings good with new grease you shouldn't ever have to lube them again.
 

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I fitted the same kit, had to press the upper and lower racers...once you pack them then you never open again.




Just be sure to fit the spacers/washer at the bottom else the bearing on the stem drops to low and the frame rubs against the lower stock, that and mine cleared the stoppers on the frame so I had to pull the whole lot off again. The kit comes with I think two spacers and the rubber seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I knew that the races had to pressed or driven in. An hour in the freezer made that simple. Used the thinner washer in the kit and the seal and seated the lower bearing. Clearance seems right. Problem comes in when I install the lower tree through the head and attempt to install the upper bearing. It doesn't fit easily onto the tube. I would have to drive it on and that would not allow adjustment to the tension on the bearings. Just wondered if anyone else had run into this problem.
 

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Just a thought...maybe the cups/races are not pressed in such that the centerlines match or are not co-linear--i.e. maybe one of the races is cocked? Even if the races are not co-linear, you would probably be able to get the headset steer-tube installed, but when you put the tapered roller bearings in, your misalignment would become very apparant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's not the problem, Rick. I cant put the upper bearing on the stem easily even if it's not installed in the head. It never even makes contact with the upper bearing race.
 

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That's not the problem, Rick. I cant put the upper bearing on the stem easily even if it's not installed in the head. It never even makes contact with the upper bearing race.


Dan,



Assuming uniform diameter down the entire length of the steer tube....



Maybe you need to measure the stem with a set of mics (not calipers) to see where the OD is in terms of roundness. I would check several points/positions...1, 2, 3, o'clock etc until you are satisfied with the numbers you are getting. My thoughts are that the stem may be 'out of round'. Bearings are typically ground to 'tenths' .0001 in terms of a shaft fit.



I am not sure what the base specification of the stem tube might be, but depending upon the raw materials specified, for example SA-106-B the OD dimensions can vary by a certain percentage of the nominal diameter (maybe you are on the high side?)...same goes for ASTM-513 Mechanical Tubing. Can be +/- 0.00x" of an inch etc; You did say however that you were able to get the lower bearing on...maybe All-Balls sent you two different diameter Bearings? Are there any markings on the roller cages or races that would indicate they are different?



As far as packing the bearings, the best way I have found for tapered roller bearings is to place about 3 tablespoons of grease into the palm of your left hand, and while holding the roller bearing in your right hand, wiht your index finger through the center of the bearing with the top side down, force the grease into the top of the bearing until the grease oozes out the race-side of the rollers. Keep doing this until there is no more air gaps inbetween the rollers.



http://gastiresoil.blogsome.com/2006/04/07/how-to-pack-a-wheel-bearing/
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I found the problem! There was very tiny ridge (apparently from the old bearing cone. I couldn't even see it. I only found it by running a razor blade down the tube & i noticed it catcheing at a certain point. Applicaction of some fine emery cloth solved the problem in just a few minutes. Yay!
 

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Decolvin,



Be sure to check the preload after riding for 20-30 miles. I did mine last spring and I noticed when I got home after the commute to work that it was loose. I tightened it up and have not needed to re-adjust since then.



After the initial installation I thought I had the right amount of preload but one of the bearings must not have been seated all the way. There are enough forces while riding to ensure the bearing races get seated all the way.
 

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This thread is very timely for me as I'm hoping to do the front end swap on mine next weekend. Thanks for the insight!



Also, my new bearings didn't come with spacers that I know of, unless they are packaged in the plastic wrap right now. Is that where yours were when you opened the package? Just trying to make certain I have all the parts BEFORE I start the project. Or maybe I reuse the CX's???
 

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If you got Pyramid bearings, I don't think they come with a spacer. At least the last one I got didn't have one. It is important to have one, otherwise the existing dust shield will get pulled up into the stem. If you look at your old ball bearings, the lower inner race will have a projection on the bottom side. It is this amount of projection that you have to use. I made one out of heavy copper ground wire that I bent in a circle and soldered the end. There may be washers at the hardware store that would work also.



If you a careful, you can reuse the old dust shield. Just take a tapered drift punch and hold it at a angle on the lower race. Tap around it several times and it will slide off without damaging the shim or dust shield.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The All Balls kit came with the upper and lower bearings, Two different spacers, and the dust seal.
 

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The all balls kit I got had two spacers as well. The instructions have you measuring the height of the original lower bearing and adding the correct spacer to make it the same height so the upper bearing and retaining nut are in the correct position.



It was quite easy to install but would be easier if an extra set of hands were available when trying lift the forks and putting on the upper bearing and nut.
 

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Looks like I'd better unpack the plastic because I don't see any directions either. My All Balls seems different. Maybe I purchased just bearings not a kit?




How many pieces do you have in the kit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I didn't have the problem of forks hanging since mine are sittin on the bench waiting to be installed. My only concern now is that when I did a dry fit, With the adjusting nut just hand tight, the dust seal does not fully move into the steering head. At first, I thought I had put it on upside-down, but after taking it out & looking there's only one way it can go on. I'm hoping that fully seating the bearings will draw it in a bit further.
 

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When you get everything on the bike ride it for a couple hundred miles and tighten up the top nut. Use will seat things.
 
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