Is it uncommon for a regulator to not work up to redline? I'm just curious.R&R update:
I've had the SH775 for 2 years now, and about 10K miles. It worked as it did new - basically perfect all the way up to 7500 rpm. At 7500 and above, it would occasionally stop regulating and over-charge up to 15.5 volts. I obviously never stayed at that RPM for more than a second.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the SH775 with SH847. Lo and behold, it provides a steady 14.1V from idle to 8000 rpm. It has the same connectors, so now electrical modifications were needed. It is physically larger, which meant that I have to remove the bracket that holds the various connectors. Yippie ka yay.
An RR should be able to regulate up to redline. Not all of them do.Is it uncommon for a regulator to not work up to redline? I'm just curious.
The battery’s spec is for 14.5V max. Of all the Hondas I have had (and still do), the charging system is always the weakest point. I never replaced water pumps or even headlights as much as I replaced RRs and alternator coils.Honda says the regulated voltage can be anywhere between 14 and 15V at operating RPM (13V at idle is about what I would expect) in all of the FSMs I've looked at (all normally aspirated CX/GL500/650 plus GL100 and 1100) so I would be very surprised if the Turbos are different.
I would be more concerned if the voltage across the battery is under 14V at 3,000 RPM than if it occasionally reaches 15V.