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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Some stator questions:

I read a lot that the stators of the Turbos keep failing.

Is there a way to prevent the stator from going bad?
Are the expensive ones (Ricks Motorsport for example) are more lasting than the cheap eBay ones?
Does a MOSFET R/R resolves the issue (or have any impact of the life span of the stator)?

Thanks!
 

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I sent my old one to Custom Rewind in Alabama. They apply a green coating, which is supposed to help insulate to windings.
Whether it provides a benefit I'm not sure if it could be proved
However my turbo also has an oil cooler from Dan Topping.
So hopefully the combination of those two modifications will give me long stator life.
Of course 'the best defense, no be there." Meaning having another motorcycle to keep high miles off of turbo is probably the best path.
 

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Best advice I have repeatedly heard is to keep a good battery on a tender (not charger) before taking off every time. If the battery is always discharged, the stator is always working overtime trying to keep up. Heat is the enemy.
 

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Agree, I definitely one attached to my turbo battery all the time
 

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stator works the same regardless of charge of battery.. its a stator.. rectifier bleeds off the extra... eliminate the connector between stator and rectifier.. Solder and heat shrink...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@Bill S, @elrodicater, @CXTURBOBOOST,
How many miles have you had on your stators since you started practicing your methods (Alabama Winding, Battery Tender, Soldering)?

My stator died although it was soldered directly to the R/R. The bat was not tendered, but the bike was ridden daily. 52Kmiles on the clock - perfectly match the 20-25Kmiles life span prediction.

@CXTURBOBOOST - you're right about the stator working hard all the time. This is the main draw back of the shunt regulator we're using. There are other options out there - I wonder if anyone ever used any of them..?
 

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There are other options out there - I wonder if anyone ever used any of them..?
I am currently using a Shindengen Series Regulator SH775 , this regulator cutoffs the flow of current when not used.
If you google SH775 you will find many other bikes which use this conversion.

Because I like to test and discover things I build a test rig using my lathe to measure input torque , output current and voltage and some thermocouples to measure temperatures inside the coil winding's of the stator.





The Shindengen regulators definitely runs a cooler stator but I have difficulties to measure the 3 phase AC voltage and current because the Shindengen cutsoff the flow of current rather abruptly.
I think I need a 3 phase power TRMS clamp meter but these are a bit expensive..............
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am currently using a Shindengen Series Regulator SH775 , this regulator cutoffs the flow of current when not used.
If you google SH775 you will find many other bikes which use this conversion.

Because I like to test and discover things I build a test rig using my lathe to measure input torque , output current and voltage and some thermocouples to measure temperatures inside the coil winding's of the stator.





The Shindengen regulators definitely runs a cooler stator but I have difficulties to measure the 3 phase AC voltage and current because the Shindengen cutsoff the flow of current rather abruptly.
I think I need a 3 phase power TRMS clamp meter but these are a bit expensive..............
That's the way to go! Perfect! Yes, I know about the SH775 - mind you though there are many fake ones.

You know you can measure current by adding a very small resistor in series and measure the voltage on it? something like 0.01ohm which would give you 0.1V at 10A - definitely a measurable value. I'd recommend using an oscilloscope on that, because the signal is no longer sinusoid and that meaningless to any DVM (even the true RMS ones).

How much DC current do you pull out of the stator? They are rated at 340W, which means they should provide 23Amps at 14.5V continuously. If you're battery is fully charge, you should be able to hook up about five 65W light bulbs... I doubt the status can do what without being soaked by oil.

How much less warm does it run with the SH775 compared to the standard SCR based?
 

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Yes, I know about the SH775 - mind you though there are many fake ones.
Yes I know. With help of Eldinr in the USA who helped me by forwarding some used ones I picked up from ebay

You know you can measure current by adding a very small resistor in series and measure the voltage on it?
The problem is that I have three fase system were the voltage and current are not running in sync. Trying to measure current and voltage with an oscilloscope and deduct power from it would be a very tedious task.

How much DC current do you pull out of the stator?
My lathe "only" goes to 4000 rpm not nearly enough to get to the 5000 rpm needed for max output

How much less warm does it run with the SH775 compared to the standard SCR based?
This question will never be answered because there are so many variables such as RPM, load cases, outside temperatures, oil temperatures etc etc etc.
My goal is to be able to say that for example during cruising on a highway at 65 Mph with standard load the energy loss ( making heat ) in the stator is ... less then ... with a series regulator.

Later when my spare engine has been completly rebuild I will install a stator with thermocouples and then I can do some real on the road measurements
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
@Pim205GTI, Looks like you've done some serious work on there.

I would love to hear that the SH775 resolves the stator issue permanently. It looks like you were able to prove that the SH775 is better than stock - but we still don't know if it is good enough to prevent the stators from ever dying on us. Time will tell.

I wonder if it makes sense to make use of the thermocouplers measurements to reduce the amount of current we take from the stator when it overheats?

Have you ever tried stators with thicker wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Has anyone had a stator from Custom Rewind fail?????
do you know of high-mileage bikes with a Custom Rewind that can testify if they fail or not?
 

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I only put on a little over 3000 miles in two years on mine. At that rate, won't know for until another 13-14 years. This season is really off, as I have been working from home.

I still would like to know more about the regulator/rectifier retrofit, i.e. how to wire it to our turbo bikes.
 

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Pim,

I googled the Shindengen SH775 and came across the SH847, have you ever heard of that?

Do you know what the differences are?

Is this R/R swap only good for the turbos or any CX/GL 500/650?

Thanks for the post, very interesting!
 

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I googled the Shindengen SH775 and came across the SH847, have you ever heard of that?
Do you know what the differences are?
The SH775 is rated 30 Amps and the SH847 is rated 50 Amps.
Our CX stators are rated 23 Amps so the SH775 is big enough.
I get the feeling among users of the SH847 that bigger is always better :unsure:

Is this R/R swap only good for the turbos or any CX/GL 500/650?
The SH775 will work on almost any 3 phase permanent magnet alternator

Some report charging problems above 10.000 RPM so well within our limit of a pushrod engine
 

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And that ladies and gentlemen, is why Mr Pim only does 2 shows a night!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
@Pim205GTI, That is a huge difference!

As the change in temp relative to the power loss on the stator then the SH775 causes the stator to dissipate 2.7 times less power [ (98-21)/(50-21) ~= 2.7 ].

This is awesome! It appears that this by itself would extend the stator life significantly.
 

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Very cool, Pim is a mad scientist! :LOL:
 
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