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Discussion Starter · #1 ·






I am a little confused. 1/5 - 95 - 116 does that mean put a meter lead on pins 1 and 5 and 95-116 ohms is within tolerance? Then on the bottom I have no idea what is ment by "Check meter, leads and pin 5 bond to earth before test." Does that mean 5 is ground, or am I supposed to ground 5 before starting the tests?
 

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I am a little confused. 1/5 - 95 - 116 does that mean put a meter lead on pins 1 and 5 and 95-116 ohms is within tolerance?



Yes, that data is from Haynes manual and it means a resistance reading

between these figures is acceptable





Then on the bottom I have no idea what is ment by "Check meter, leads and pin 5 bond to earth before test." Does that mean 5 is ground, or am I supposed to ground 5 before starting the tests?



Sorry, I only had room for one line of text and tended to use shorthand



To expand and clarify that

Check yout meter has a good battery as one with a poor battery may give faulty readings

Check the meters leads by shorting them together and taking a reading

you want to see little or no resistance.

Knowing the lead resistance is important when taking low

resistance readings, in our case when checking between the yellow wires on the charging coils.



Leads are usually the first thing to fail due to mechanical wear and stress

and if they start to break down this could severely affect the readings you take



Pin 5 is strapped to the stator body internally and therefore ground

checking it has no, or very little resistance to the engine, frame and battery Neg

tells you its a reliable connection to use as a test point.



HTH
 

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Reg, I used that pic to help diagnose a faulty stator in my first CX

4 years ago,,it was the first repair I ever did on one of these bikes.

I have since posted it, or a link to it, for many other CXers to use.



Thanks for making and sharing it.
 

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Reg,



I have that picture permanently residing on my computer in several directories - just to make sure I don't lose it..



definitely making good connections is the best method to get the best results - if you don't like the results - thats another problem..



that earth pin should be cleaned up and tested for continuity before you start the testing.
 

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Reg, I used that pic to help diagnose a faulty stator in my first CX

4 years ago,,it was the first repair I ever did on one of these bikes.

I have since posted it, or a link to it, for many other CXers to use.



Thanks for making and sharing it.


Thanks Allan

Like most of us, I learnt a lot about my CX's over the years by the huge

amount of info and experiences we have all shared freely.

It was years ago but as I recall I felt simple printable diagrams would help

test common problem areas.



It still bugs me though

I used paintshop pro and never liked the way the text came out

(bitmapped, should have used vector graphics)

Also I should have followed convention and not ignored pin 2 even though it isnt used

and had a 10 pin chart with pin 2 as NC (no connection)

Bit if I started chopping and changing pin numbers it may have been confusing and done more harm than good
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, So I just did the stator test and only number 9 (low speed) was off. I remember heearing about a white wire fix or blue wire fix or something. Now I'm going to have to find that. When I changed my headlamp bucket I left out the 7 volt reg. Is that ok or would that mess with the results of the test? You dont need the battery connected to the bike for this test do you? I'm just trying to eliminate all factors. Thanks!!



EDIT: I just looked under the old forum General stickies and I thought there was one on the white wire fix, but I'm not seeing it there
There is how to wire a stator and other wireing troubleshooting things, but no white wire fix
HELP!
 

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Ok, So I just did the stator test and only number 9 (low speed) was off. I remember heearing about a white wire fix or blue wire fix or something. Now I'm going to have to find that. When I changed my headlamp bucket I left out the 7 volt reg. Is that ok or would that mess with the results of the test? You dont need the battery connected to the bike for this test do you? I'm just trying to eliminate all factors. Thanks!!



EDIT: I just looked under the old forum General stickies and I thought there was one on the white wire fix, but I'm not seeing it there
There is how to wire a stator and other wireing troubleshooting things, but no white wire fix
HELP!
Nate,you really need to put your model into your signiture line....the sparks here will struggle to help you if they do not know which model/year you have
 

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The 7V regulator is for the temperature gauge. The gauge will not work properly without it.

If you are only doing resistance checks, a battery is not necessary. If you want to check the charging function of the stator, you need a fully charged good battery installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The 7V regulator is for the temperature gauge. The gauge will not work properly without it.

If you are only doing resistance checks, a battery is not necessary. If you want to check the charging function of the stator, you need a fully charged good battery installed.
Yeah, I replaced the temp sensor with a mechanical one. I need help with the white wire fix. I know it's somewhere, I've been looking for over an hour now. About ready to just splice it, I think thats all it is anyway.
 

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Yeah, I replaced the temp sensor with a mechanical one. I need help with the white wire fix. I know it's somewhere, I've been looking for over an hour now. About ready to just splice it, I think thats all it is anyway.
What is wrong with your bike?
 

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Yeah, I replaced the temp sensor with a mechanical one. I need help with the white wire fix. I know it's somewhere, I've been looking for over an hour now. About ready to just splice it, I think thats all it is anyway.
Nate,have you looked on sheps site?
 

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The white wire fix is disconnecting the blue wire coming from the stator at the 2 wire connector and jumping the white wire to that terminal on the connector to provide white wire input at both high and low speeds, as I understand it.

My guess is it is a temporary fix.
 

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The white wire fix is disconnecting the blue wire coming from the stator at the 2 wire connector and jumping the white wire to that terminal on the connector to provide white wire input at both high and low speeds, as I understand it.

My guess is it is a temporary fix.


This will not help if your problem is the bike not charging. You posted in another thread by CDYoung (who was looking to solve a charging problem)that maybe you had the same problem as he had.



This will also not work if your problem is a bad low speed coil, as you suspect from the post above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The white wire fix is disconnecting the blue wire coming from the stator at the 2 wire connector and jumping the white wire to that terminal on the connector to provide white wire input at both high and low speeds, as I understand it.

My guess is it is a temporary fix.
That is what I needed to hear! So I cut the white wire on the plug going to the cdi and connecting it to the blue wire thus the hi rpm coils are providing power to the cdi. Question, Why is there hi and low rpm coils on the stator? Do the 82 and up stators have this? How temporary is this fix? The 82 and up stators use thicker wire? Maybe the 78-81 stators use the white wire all the time and the blue adds a little more at higher rpm? If the high rpm windings are of thinner wire, then that would prove me case. It would also mean that the thinner wires on the hi rpm side, won't last long due to heat, having to supply what the low rpm side isnt doing. (after the splice that is)
 

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That is what I needed to hear! So I cut the white wire on the plug going to the cdi and connecting it to the blue wire thus the hi rpm coils are providing power to the cdi. Question, Why is there hi and low rpm coils on the stator? Do the 82 and up stators have this? How temporary is this fix? The 82 and up stators use thicker wire? Maybe the 78-81 stators use the white wire all the time and the blue adds a little more at higher rpm? If the high rpm windings are of thinner wire, then that would prove me case. It would also mean that the thinner wires on the hi rpm side, won't last long due to heat, having to supply what the low rpm side isnt doing. (after the splice that is)


What you are describing is the opposite of what boulder described,,it could be called "the blue wire fix".



If you do this without testing the voltage output on the blue wire it could damage your cdi, if the blue wire is putting out over 90 volts. Your stator is old so it probably is not,,but you should test it to be sure.



I think all the wires are the same gauge,,not positive on that though.



As for how long it will last,,it is anybody's guess, there have been people run the white wire fix for quite a while. The white wire fix is not a 100% cure but will help a bike that topped out at 5k rpm,,achive up to about 8k rpm.
 

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AFAIK your assumptions are correct about the CDI Stators.The later model bikes have a TAI(Transistor Advanced Ignition) and their G8 stators do not have the high voltage coils to supply a CDI box as they don't need them.The supply voltage for the,"Sparker" units as they are called is supplied by the battery like many modern bikes.

The later TAI models also have a different Advance and retard mechanism but in the same places as the Pulsar coils Advance and retard unit on the CDI models.

Although the old CDI systems are old tech they do have the advantage of the bike being able to be started by bump starting even of the battery is flat to get you home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
AFAIK your assumptions are correct about the CDI Stators.The later model bikes have a TAI(Transistor Advanced Ignition) and their G8 stators do not have the high voltage coils to supply a CDI box as they don't need them.The supply voltage for the,"Sparker" units as they are called is supplied by the battery like many modern bikes.

The later TAI models also have a different Advance and retard mechanism but in the same places as the Pulsar coils Advance and retard unit on the CDI models.

Although the old CDI systems are old tech they do have the advantage of the bike being able to be started by bump starting even of the battery is flat to get you home.
What is AFAIK? What and whos assumptions are correct? Since my white wire is the problem, is it safe to splice it to the blue? Thanks!
 

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