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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the engine out and the rear cover off. I definitely need a mechanical seal, rear camshaft seal and cam chain.

The stator has not been giving me any problems to this point. There is 65,000 km on the bike - don't know if the stator has previously been replaced. It looks like it might be OEM.



The question I am debating is whether I should replace the stator anyways or leave it alone and buy an ignitech system in the next group purchase? What would your advice be?
 

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You will get the two opposing answers,



1:Replace it because you have the engine out and it's old.



Or



2:Leave it be.Electrical/Electro-Mechanical devices have a life expectancy of between zero and infinity or three days after the warranty runs out,whichever comes first<grin>




Both my Stators are 2nd hand and high mileage and still going strong.Once you've had a CX/GL engine out and done these jobs it's no big deal to get them out again should it go.







FYI even a new Stator can have it's problems.Some have been shoddily made/refurbished.Some have been damaged when fitting incorrectly.Just some thoughts.It's a calculated risk IMHO to leave it in but so far I've been lucky and still have a couple of spare 2nd hand Stators from some basket case engines I bought off Ebay.Always worth a cheap bid even if an engine is kaput.I've got my own CX spares Dept. in my Garage
 

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I was were you are early last summer. I did Sheps 2nd option and all is fine. I did buy a ignitech that is sitting on a peg on the wall waiting for a reason to install.
 

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As with anything, YMMV. When I had the engine out and apart, with the new stator on the table ready to install, I inspected the original stator and it looked just as good/better than the replacement:







And I decided to leave well enough alone and didn't molest it except to shore up the harness a bit. I don't know what kind of shellac the OEM supplier used, but as you can see in the pic, it looks as good as it did the day it was installed, and works just as well.



As was stated above, it's so easy to pull the engine on a CX (takes longer to replace the ignition in my car than to do a triple bypass on the CX) that should a problem manifest itself, it's really easy to pull things out and apart once you've been in there once.
 

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Interesting subject here. If presented with an open stator I'd never get anything near the wiring that would attack the orignnal coating but could a proper mix of the newer polys be of any benefit to (hopefully) creep in and prevent the wires from shorting to themseves in future?
 

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Interesting subject here. If presented with an open stator I'd never get anything near the wiring that would attack the orignnal coating but could a proper mix of the newer polys be of any benefit to (hopefully) creep in and prevent the wires from shorting to themseves in future?




I don't know about doing the whole stator, if it's intact like mine was, I'd let sleeping dogs lie.



I had a bit of chaffing at the cable (from the flywheel rubbing on it), I was going to use "liquid tape" but was told not to by a machinist friend of mine. He'd done projects where they had to run wiring harnesses through engines, and he told me to use nail polish. I picked up some passion pink (the cheapest stuff they had at Tar'ghet) and used that on the hole in the stator wiring. It took three or four coats, it coated well and worked fine.



 

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How long have you been running it with the nail polish Cobram?


Since you didn't ask me how long I've been using nail polish
, I'll answer that.



It's only been over the summer, put about 2000 miles on the bike after applying the nail polish to the harness. I also dabbed some on the inside of an oil filler cap (aluminum, FWIW) on the cars' engine to see how it would hold up. That was about 4 months and +/- 2000 miles ago, and it still looks like new and I couldn't scrape it off.



Made sense, you've got me curious now, I'm going to swab a line on the inside of the gas cap to see how it holds up to gasoline fumes. If it can take gasoline and the inside of an oil filler cap, it should do well inside the oil/vapor environment that the stator and it's wiring have to work in. I trust my machinist friend on such matters without question, I wish I knew 1/10th of what he's probably forgotten over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have decided to take the risk and not replace the stator since it is not presenting any problems and it looks fine, like the one pictured here.

I'll probably pick up an ignitech with the next group purchase.
 

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Duplicolor "Truck and SUV" clear coat would be a better choice than nail polish but still only a band-aid.
 

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You could always replace it with a non CDI stator if you had an ignitech in hand, that is the route I went. Has a little extra output than the stock stator.



Mike
 
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