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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the 3 yellow wires from stator get hot like shorted. plug is gone. wires connected w/o plug. at the battery the meter shows 14.2 volts at 1000 rpm. at 3000 rpm shows 15 volts. whats a bench test for the regulator?
 

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I don't know how warm my Yellow wires get but I would image it could be quite warm.At full output(Which the stators by nature are most of the time) they are supplying 14 amps on a CDI engine and possibly 20 amps on a TAI engine.That's a lot of current for the wires.



Most of this energy is not actually used by the bikes and is dissipated as heat by the Regulator/Rectifier through it's fins and to ground via the frame.



If your readings at the battery are as you say then the Regulator part must be working as that voltage would be higher if it weren't as voltage and current are directly related.If the wires are not melting and there's no signs of charring I think it may be a normal set of circumstances and nothing to concern yourself with.



I'd just check and clean all connections as a matter of course anyway,

http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Electrics.htm

and the battery,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/BatteryCare.htm#BatteryCare



as in good condition it's also part of the system for soaking up current.



Slightly OT.If you haven't already strip and clean the starter motor,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=208



Anything that aids lessing the draw on the electrical system will pay dividends such as making starting faster and easier.
 

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Yep you deffo need good connections here

and I've seen a few burnt out connectors.

I noticed the 3 way plug was getting warm while the wires were cool

thats a bad sign, so I trimmed the cables and renewed the terminals which sorted it.

Some people have dispensed with the plug altogether and used solder joints

to avoid similar problems.



You want to see 14-14.5V at the battery when running

Any more may be due to poor connections on the sense ( black) or ground ( green)

Overcharging may gas off the electrolyte, a smell like rotten eggs is a sign of this

as well as the obvious loss.



For a long time now, as well a checking the 3 yellow phase wires are good.

I've connected the black sensor wire and the green ground wires from the RR direct to my battery

Black to pos, green to neg.

this keeps the Voltage in range.

Taking such a cavalier attitude to hacking the wires about isnt everbodys cup of tea

so checking all the related connectors are sound and clean is important.



Voltage monitors help you see that the battery is getting charged properly

theyre useful gadgets to have and can indicate problems before they become serious
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
got a new battery in it. cleaned out the connectors after i found the 3 yellow wire connector had melted and corroded. i'll just keep going then and keep an eye on it.
 

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got a new battery in it. cleaned out the connectors after i found the 3 yellow wire connector had melted and corroded. i'll just keep going then and keep an eye on it.


Most likely it happened the other way round.Dirty/corroded contacts cause more resistance and therefore heat at that point.It was undoubtedly lack of electrical maintenance that led to the plug's failure.People should pull apart all connectors and use some Isopropanol Contact/Switch cleaner on them from time to time.

Automobile breakdown companies largest call outs are for small electrical faults that cause motors to stop,usually for the sake of a little cleaning and maintenance.
 

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Slightly OT.If you haven't already strip and clean the starter motor,



http://globalcxglvtw...c.php?f=8&t=208



Anything that aids lessing the draw on the electrical system will pay dividends such as making starting faster and easier.


Shep, this link is dead. Do you have an alternate?



Joel in the Couve
 

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Shep, this link is dead. Do you have an alternate?



Joel in the Couve


Forum's off-line ATM.Try a again later and also start motor stripping is covered in the manuals.Basically take it off,take out the two long screws.Remember that on the power post there's a fibre washer to insulate the positive from the motor's casing/ground.Clean everything and use a bit of emery/grit paper to brighten the commutator.



I use and old toothbrush to clean in the grooves.You can use Carb/Brake cleaner as a cleaning agent/solvent.Bare metal all the edges of the Brush holder plate and remove any and all corrosion that could cause arcing/high resistance that drains the power of the starter inside.



The hardest part is usually getting a start on those two long screws.Heat and loads of penetrating oil/wire brush and some Vise Grips gets them.



Tip.Tighten screws very slightly after applying heat and release oil to break the corrosion seal of old bolts(works on virtually every old rusted in bolt.



For future work invest in one of these,



http://cgi.ebay.com/Super-High-Torc...304?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb0730020



Brilliant for releasing nuts and bolts and refillable.Can also be used to solder if no access to electricity.Very directional so good for keeping heat away from other parts.
 

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I found on this on my cx650 turbo not long after purchase.



I addressed the problem by splicing the three yellow wires together directly with solder and shrink wrap. When it came time to test/replace my stator it made things a little more difficult by virtue of not having the quick disconnect, but it was not that big of a deal.
 

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Theres nowt wrong in soldering them but one snag that

comes to mind is when I've stripped back insulation from many bike cables

the conductor wires are often very dirty/oxidised/oily and this can make getting

good solder joints difficult.



The three way M&F connector is convenient but not essential

The important thing is to get good conductivity past that point

If I had any doubts about it I'd quite happily use solder, bullet connectors

screw terminals ( bootlace ferrules or tinning may help here)whatever.

whichever system you use, regular inspections and checks will help avoid trouble
 

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In my experience when a connector gets that bad the wire is also corroded for a ways up under the insulation. After cutting and stripping simply squish it between a piece of 400 sandpaper, pull outwards, squash from a different direction, repeat.



If the wire isn't showing bare copper strands you'll end up wasting a lot of time and melting a lot of insulation trying to get a decent joint. A bit of common non-acid plumbing flux worked into the strands helps as well.
 
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