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I have a UK, Cx500 1980. Ran fine until it started to miss at about 5000 to 6000rpm. Can't go above about 55mph. I initially suspected fuel starvation and changed the air and all fuel filters to no avail. Then, having read some of the past posts figured I might have a stator problem.
The check for this, according to the Haynes Manual is to check the resistance on the wires which join at a block mounted under the seat on the rear mudguard. There are three blocks, one big and two small. The manual suggests checking only the big block starting with white to blue and white to green, However the big conblock doesn't have a white or a blue. So I assumed they must mean the big block and the smaller block which has two wires, white and blue.
My Big block has 2x4 = 8 terminals they are, on the top row, Light blue, blank, Light blue with red, Light blue with white.
On the next row they are, Orange, Green, Orange with red, Orange with white.
Using both the larger and the White/blue smaller block I got the following readings compared with the Haynes suggested tollerences.
White to blue, 77 to 95 ohms was found to be 172 ohms.
White to green, 387 to 473 ohms was found to be 286 ohms.
Orange to green, 95 to 116 ohms was found to be 112 ohms.
Light blue to green, 95 to 116 ohms was found to be was found to be 111 ohms.
Orange with red to green, 81 to 99 ohms, was found to be 92 ohms.
Light blue with red to green, 81 to 99 ohms, was found to be 96 ohms.
I took it from this that the stator had failed and ordered one on the net.
Problem was, I didn't realise there were more than one component in the alternator which had windings on. There was the Alternator stator, which I ordered, and the advance pulsar coil which I removed from the small alternator cover at the back of the engine/gear box 395 thinking it was the same thing.
Anyway, the problem is, which one do I need? the Advance pulsar stator or the Alternator stator or both? If I need to remove the alternator stator, do I need to remove the engine and split it and is this easy or require special tools?
The check for this, according to the Haynes Manual is to check the resistance on the wires which join at a block mounted under the seat on the rear mudguard. There are three blocks, one big and two small. The manual suggests checking only the big block starting with white to blue and white to green, However the big conblock doesn't have a white or a blue. So I assumed they must mean the big block and the smaller block which has two wires, white and blue.
My Big block has 2x4 = 8 terminals they are, on the top row, Light blue, blank, Light blue with red, Light blue with white.
On the next row they are, Orange, Green, Orange with red, Orange with white.
Using both the larger and the White/blue smaller block I got the following readings compared with the Haynes suggested tollerences.
White to blue, 77 to 95 ohms was found to be 172 ohms.
White to green, 387 to 473 ohms was found to be 286 ohms.
Orange to green, 95 to 116 ohms was found to be 112 ohms.
Light blue to green, 95 to 116 ohms was found to be was found to be 111 ohms.
Orange with red to green, 81 to 99 ohms, was found to be 92 ohms.
Light blue with red to green, 81 to 99 ohms, was found to be 96 ohms.
I took it from this that the stator had failed and ordered one on the net.
Problem was, I didn't realise there were more than one component in the alternator which had windings on. There was the Alternator stator, which I ordered, and the advance pulsar coil which I removed from the small alternator cover at the back of the engine/gear box 395 thinking it was the same thing.
Anyway, the problem is, which one do I need? the Advance pulsar stator or the Alternator stator or both? If I need to remove the alternator stator, do I need to remove the engine and split it and is this easy or require special tools?
