[Chino AJ]

Hi,
I am new to the forum, I got a 1980 CX500 a couple of year ago, It was running perfectly until last week. I was going to work and the bike suddenly lost power and stop. I recharge the battery and change the spark plugs. Then it happened again. I did the test and looks like my stator is failing.
I tested all the circuits, everything checked out except 9/5, which was 30 under the limit. I was looking for solutions in the forum and found a thread from 2016.

Stator failing..seeking advice. Replace cdi with...

Stator failing..seeking advice. Triple bypass questions. CDI/Ignitec Stator Cam Chain Hello, Forum lurker, first time poster. I've got an '81 CX500 Custom with roughly 40K miles. I've been running into a barrage of issues with the bike recently. Many problems solved thanks to this forum, thank...

www.cx500forum.com

I've found two options so far (please enlighten me if there are others). Replace stator or replace the stock CDI with Ignitech.

I would like to avoid taking the engine. Is there any other new solution since the threat is from 2016?

Thanks for your help.
AJ

 

[CXPHREAK]

Just for clarification, coil 9 on the stator test is the low speed coil for the ignition system which functions like a 2 stage flywheel magneto independent of the battery charging coils.

The test you need to do here is a resistance check on the plug next to the 2 plugs that you have just tested. It's the one with the three yellow wires running through it.

There should be low resistance between any pair of the three and infinite resistance from any of the three to ground.

But on the surface of it you likely need a new stator so you could fit a caltric G8 and either the ignitech or a raesan ignition.

 

[Chino AJ]

Hi CXPHREAK, Correct, I did that one too, with the 3 yellow wires same resistance between them and infinite resistance, everything worked. After that I did the other one, that is when I found the low speed coil issue.
I want to avoid taking the engine out. Which one is the best solution for that?
And what product for ignitech or Rae-san should I use?
Thanks

 

[CXPHREAK]

I'm not clear on this - is it charging the battery?

 

[Chino AJ]

yes, the battery is ok. still at 12.5

 

[CXPHREAK]

Cool.

Then you can simply fit the ignitech. It will take you 10 - 15 mm to fit.

Or check out some of this raesan srtuff.

Rae-San Electronics | Modern Electronics for Vintage Motorcycles

CX 500 CDI Ignitions | Rae-San Electronics

I have raesans on a couple of bikes and they work well.

 

[Chino AJ]

Cool.

Then you can simply fit the ignitech. It will take you 10 - 15 mm to fit.

Or check out some of this raesan srtuff.

Rae-San Electronics | Modern Electronics for Vintage Motorcycles

CX 500 CDI Ignitions | Rae-San Electronics

I have raesans on a couple of bikes and they work well.

Awesome, thanks. Any preference between them?

 

[CXPHREAK]

Since your pulsers are still good I actually like the non hall raesan if you are looking for a quick install. It takes about as long as the ignitech to fit.

The hall is fiddlier and takes longer but it is a safegaurd against pulser failure. My experience here says to me that stator failure is common, pulser failure less so.

 

[Chino AJ]

Since your pulsers are still good I actually like the non hall raesan if you are looking for a quick install. It takes about as long as the ignitech to fit. The hall is fiddlier and takes longer but it is a safegaurd against pulser failure. My experience here says to me that stator failure is common, pulser failure less so.

Great. Thanks for tour help.

 

[nolimitz]

with the engine running you should see more than 12.5v at the battery

 

[CXPHREAK]

Yeah, I took that as the battery resting voltage.

It should be 14.4 volts by 3,000 RPM.

 

[nolimitz]

Me too but worth verification by OP

 

[Sidecar Bob]

Yeah, 12.5V across the battery with the engine off is good but with the engine running you have a charging issue.
On the other hand, charging issues don't usually make a CDI CX500 lose power and die.

Welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so (current problem aside) it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

 

[Chino AJ]

Yeah, 12.5V across the battery with the engine off is good but with the engine running you have a charging issue.
On the other hand, charging issues don't usually make a CDI CX500 lose power and die.

Welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so (current problem aside) it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

Thanks for you input Bob. I changed brakes and tires. I will definitely take a look on the rest. Thanks again

 

[Chino AJ]

Good morning, just got the Rae-san full stock kit And using manual V3, they look completely different. Do you guys have link for the installation or a video. I don't know how to connect the GY6 boxes. I have an idea but since the manual doesn’t explain it I am afraid I will mess it up.
thanks for your help

 

[Tombat]

Good morning, just got the Rae-san full stock kit And using manual V3, they look completely different. Do you guys have link for the installation or a video. I don't know how to connect the GY6 boxes. I have an idea but since the manual doesn’t explain it I am afraid I will mess it up.
thanks for your help

I believe you need the V3.5 manual if its a recent full hall kit.
https://www.rae-san.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/V3.5-CDI-INSTALLATION-DRAFT_B.pdf

 

[Chino AJ]

I believe you need the V3.5 manual if its a recent full hall kit.
https://www.rae-san.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/V3.5-CDI-INSTALLATION-DRAFT_B.pdf

Thanks.
Ray just sent me the same manual.

 

[Chino AJ]

Hi guys, complete the installation, triple check the connections, turned it on (Power ok) but no spark. Looks like it is going to happen but nothing. Should i see any led lights On? Any suggestions?

 

[Tombat]

Hi guys, complete the installation, triple check the connections, turned it on (Power ok) but no spark. Looks like it is going to happen but nothing. Should i see any led lights On? Any suggestions?

Don't know if you've seen this troubleshooting flowchart :

https://www.rae-san.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/ignition_6.pdf

 

[dsmoll]

You should have leds flashing on the sensor and inside the aluminum box. My setup was very confusing and ray sent me a wiring diagram which was not on the website.