[Sprocket]

I just picked up a GL650 with the Interstate Kit. It’s not the GL650i but it is an early model of the GL650, serial number 15. It’s been sitting in a barn for 10 years and my winter project is to bring it back to life. First I need to find out if it runs before I spend other money. Change the oil, flush the cooling system, clean the carbs and a new battery and then we shall see. There doesn’t seem to be a cooling system drain. What is the recommended method for flushing?

Assuming I can get it to run, it needs tires. While I have the wheels off, I thought I’d pretty them up. I’m also going to have to repaint the black engine. I saw a reference to Plasticote Silver Radiator Paint being good for the engine. I’m guessing that there is black available that probably probably also work on the wheels. Then polish the aluminum edges. Are the heads aluminum that will polish up? How about the clutch housing? Might I be better off just painting them Silver?

 

[rickbert]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.........



Don't paint the aluminum.....it CAN all be polished out to a beautiful shine.

 

[Casey Stangle]

I am also restoring a CX500 that was stored. The carbs were a big issue, but the rusted gas tank was a Bigger issue! I also am doing the tires, battery, front disk brake rebuild and the master cylinder. Become friends with e-bay. That is were I got most of my stuff. A local cycle shop is installing a set of Dunlaps for about $210. That insludes mounting and ballancing. Got a gel cell, a bit more pricey, at Batteries Plus. They actually had the best price, so give them a shot.



Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Johnny Canuck]

Sproket...show us some pics before....and after!

 

[marshallf3]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.........



Don't paint the aluminum.....it CAN all be polished out to a beautiful shine.

IF you remove all the clear coat first - darn stuff is everywhere and it takes a really strong stripper to remove it, same with any of the paint they used.

 

[rickbert]

IF you remove all the clear coat first - darn stuff is everywhere and it takes a really strong stripper to remove it, same with any of the paint they used.

On the radiator frame and the valve covers I simply sanded with rough paper, then finer paper, then finer paper, then even finer paper, then 000 steel wool......then polish with Mothers Mag polish ! Not that big of a deal !



Look at my pics in my signature....IT CAN BE DONE QUITE EASILY !

 

[Sprocket]

I'd add pictures if I could figure out how. <G> How do you get the listing at the underneath the post...pictures and bikes you own or have owned.

 

[Casey Stangle]

The listed bikes are part of the signature under your profile.



Picture posting is through a third pary vender such as Photbucket. The proceedure is listed under blindstich's posting. The third one down under this general discusion.

 

[DavidfromWisconsin]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.........



Don't paint the aluminum.....it CAN all be polished out to a beautiful shine.

If you are truly doing a "restoration" project, nothing was polished from the factory.

 

[rickbert]

If you are truly doing a "restoration" project, nothing was polished from the factory.

True because most of the aluminum had that clear coat on it right ?



If so however, the only way to make the aluminum look "good" NOW is to sand it down and either polish or paint.



Edit: Well I guess you actually COULD sand all the old nasty clear coat off then put new clear coat back on and that would be a "true" restore.

 

[DavidfromWisconsin]

True because most of the aluminum had that clear coat on it right ?



If so however, the only way to make the aluminum look "good" NOW is to sand it down and either polish or paint.



Edit: Well I guess you actually COULD sand all the old nasty clear coat off then put new clear coat back on and that would be a "true" restore.

Actually most of it was painted and just a few parts were clear coated.

 

[marshallf3]

In going through this I've found it varied. Oil filter cover was painted and cleared, clutch cover was just clear. Carbs - clear, valve covers clear only. You can pretty well tell by the underlying soothness of the finish - if it's slightly rough to begin with then it will have been painted first, if it's really smooth then it just got clear.

 

[Shep]

If you can get it over there Plastikote 665 Satin Chrome Radiator paint is what you want for the engine.Once applied it's easy to maintain to keep a good finish on engines and wheels.



If you cannot get that my next choice would be Rustoleum,



http://cgi.ebay.com/Silver-Metallic...0?pt=Paint_Paint_Supplies&hash=item35ace175c6



HTH

 

[marshallf3]

They also make a "Bumper Chrome" that's more of a glossy version of the satin, good for parts that are supposed to be chrome. Really does look like chrome under lower light but in direct sunlight you can sense the aluminum tint in it.



http://www.plastikote.com/index.jsp



There's a link in their website on "Where to buy" that will list out their major retailers. Seems to be really good paint.

 

[Shep]

They also make a "Bumper Chrome" that's more of a glossy version of the satin, good for parts that are supposed to be chrome. Really does look like chrome under lower light but in direct sunlight you can sense the aluminum tint in it.



http://www.plastikote.com/index.jsp



There's a link in their website on "Where to buy" that will list out their major retailers. Seems to be really good paint.

They make good paint.A lot of it is old school oil-synthetic based so it drys a bit slower and takes longer to cure but it's very robust and good finishes.

 

[norm]

I just found a trunk re-locator and the saddlebag protectors for my GL500I. They are pretty rusty with some road rash I’m going to have to repair. I wonder if the chrome paint would work or would I be better off with painting them a low gloss black. I worry what ever I do it won’t stick. I have the same problem with the header pipes on my cx650.

 

[Shep]

You need to rough the surface before painting for paint to adhere.You can use an orbital sander if you have access to one or even use,"Yellow pages" and see if you can find a cheap or free sand blasting place.There's one near me on an industrial estate near a Radiator repair shop I use and they told me the Blaster guys will do small jobs for cash-in-hand/beer tokens

 

[norm]

You need to rough the surface before painting for paint to adhere.You can use an orbital sander if you have access to one or even use,"Yellow pages" and see if you can find a cheap or free sand blasting place.There's one near me on an industrial estate near a Radiator repair shop I use and they told me the Blaster guys will do small jobs for cash-in-hand/beer tokens

I have an orgital sander but the sand blasting would get in all hard to get spots. Then just prime and spray. Thanks Shep

 

[Shep]

I have an orgital sander but the sand blasting would get in all hard to get spots. Then just prime and spray. Thanks Shep

Using some rubber gloves for the awkward parts you can dab some old battery acid into them but be careful with it.It will act as an acid cleaner/etch.Most motorcycle shops actually sell it pretty cheap but is it concentrated Sulphuric acid so take precautions if you do use some.

 

[marshallf3]

Muriatic (hydrochloric) commonly sold as pool acid will also etch enough for paint to stick, matter of fact coarse black polishing compound on a drill buffer wheel seems to be enough if you're using that Plasticote paint. I've done that on a couple of my parts in inconspicuous areas, only time will tell but it seems on there solid at present.