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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw a link that had pics and some great 'how-to' information on taking down a starter, cleaning, solvents, etc, and I am kicking myself for not bookmarking it...I searched for Starter and got over 200 hits...can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
 

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Rick, I don't know where the thread is either, but cleaning one is not too complicated. Just remove the starter from the engine. It has a O ring seal to the engine, so you may have to wiggle it out. Disconnect the battery wire, making sure that the nut is turning, not the stud.



On the bench, remove the two long skinny bolts from the case. If they don't want to turn easily, use a small Vise Grip on the bolts next to the threaded end just to break them loose. Remove the clip from the end of the gear, and note which way the gear goes on, as it will fit both ways. I like to Sharpie a couple of index lines on the ends of the case ends, altho there are some already there.



Slide the ends off the armature, making very sure you capture and note how many shim washers are on each end. These can be very thin and sometimes stick to the armature. You will probably fine a lot of black carbon dust in the brush end cap. Blow this out and also blow out the body and the armature. Chances are that the brushes are still OK, as well as the commutator bars. Just take a tooth brush and brush off the commutator, making sure to clean well between the bars. You probably will not need to undercut the bars, but take some Scotchbrite pads and shine up the commutator. Don't use steel wool as it can leave little steel threads in areas.



Examine the brush ring and the tabs on it that fit into the notches on the body. These tabs are the only thing that provide a ground path for the motor. If they are arced or dirty, clean up these areas. There is a thread in the General Information section - top post pinned, that describe how to do a alternate ground path for these motors. In my opinion, it is a good thing to do, as it seems to help the motor spin easier. Up to you, it takes a half hour to do this mod, and the first time it is a little tedious.



Now put a dab of grease in the cup on the brush end cap and slide the armature in while holding the brushes retracted. Slide on the body and add grease to the bearing on the other cap. Align your marks and install the bolts. Then replace the gear and clip. Careful on the thin O rings that go between the caps and the body. They can easily be deformed or broken.



Re-install the motor and you should notice a marked improvement.
 

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thats one of the things i also want to do but have never got around to it my starter works great and i rebuilt it all a year ago (i think its time to do it again didnt think it was that long ago haha)
 

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Just a heads up. Several I have talked to said it's easy as pie to get those two screws out. Not in my case. Dave showed me how to do one and both bolts were stubborn and one even broke off.



The last one I did was stubborn to but I applied heat to it for a while and it came right out.



I still have one starter sitting by my tool box I should probably do the ground strap on that one.
 

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Anybody have a better picture of the ground strap besides this one?









The one post mentioned just using wire but where was it connected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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If you are using a wire, and I think it is much easier to do that, just put it under the brush bare wire connector. I used a braided copper wire that I crimped and then soldered ring connectors to. One end under the brush screw, and drill a hole thru the cap to machine screw the other end to the case. Add a nut and lockwasher on the outside and file down flush.



Before you drill, examine the inside of the end cap for a flat spot and one that doesn't show when the motor is assembled. I used the outer shield from a coaxial cable for the wire. The old piece I had used copper for the shield, newer cable uses aluminum which isn't quite as good.
 

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What I was reading is this.



CXichy



Took me about 45 min to do. I used a cable strap made from 240 volt flex cable (both strands) as this cable is very flexible and well insulated. It may not be a good idea to get carried away and clean up the commutator and other parts too much other than use a gentle solvent like metho and a soft rubber like an eraser on the commutator. The strap I fitted went from the brush terminal to the end cap. I figured this would make reassembly easier. The strap is about 35 mm long with lugs, just the right length to fit without any folds. I definitely recommend this mod what ever method you use.



Les F



What is the Brush Terminal would be my question. Is it really that simple to connect it to the phillips screw in this picture?







I was looking at the schematics to narrow down the terminology and couldn't find a name for the ring that was tapped into on the footering page.



My brain was also partially thinking about using a carriage bolt on the back of the starter with the nut on the inside if there's room. Then it wouldn't look so odd. That is if it was ever even seen.
 

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Not to say this is stupid but this is stupid. Here i'm asking questions of how to do it because I need a picture and as soon as I log into the damn australian site all my answers are there. Before lost in the middle of nowhere.



I'm going to back up the photos in my photobucket for safe keeping.
 

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Well this is roughly what my end result looks like. Figured why drill a hole in the side when you can drill a hole in the rear section.



 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well this is roughly what my end result looks like. Figured why drill a hole in the side when you can drill a hole in the rear section.


WOW! nice job! nothing like a 'new coat of clean'...good idea for connecting/drilling the end cap like you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Now thats a great mod for the starter. You could go one more step and bring that extra ground to the outside and strate to the battery. No ground loss there.


Has anyone ever done this? if so, curious to see how you did it...it would seem from many of the posts, that the solution was presented this way to maintain a 'stock' look with no visible modifications--I 'get that' and all but a straight buss to the negative terminal would seem to deliver the best ground possible.
 

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I doubt that a direct ground from the starting motor to the battery would make an appreciable difference. There should be a strong grounding path from the motor to the engine and then to the frame. Providing that all the surfaces are clean and bright. If you had some corrosion in one of the paths, then it would help. But you should clean those up anyhow.



You could take a ohmmeter and measure the resistance from the starting motor cover to the negative battery terminal and then do the same to the bike's frame. I'm guessing there wouldn't any difference.
 

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I doubt that a direct ground from the starting motor to the battery would make an appreciable difference. There should be a strong grounding path from the motor to the engine and then to the frame. Providing that all the surfaces are clean and bright. If you had some corrosion in one of the paths, then it would help. But you should clean those up anyhow.


Ditto.Waste of time adding an extra cable that can corrode/break-down.
 
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